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Vise restoration help.

Andrewjk89

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Joined
Jan 1, 2024
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14
Picked up a Columbian 506-M2 today and I love it. Going to restore it as best I can. I've ran into some roadblocks though and could use some ad-vise (haha, get it?).

First off, on the lead screw end cap there are two holes with what look like hollow set screws or pins, one on either side. They appear to hold the head on the screw, but have both cracked and the head is loose. Anyone know how to best remove and replace these? Can they even be replaced?

Secondly, on one of the jaw inserts there are two flat head screws that look original to the vise. I can't for the life of me remove these, and I don't want to further strip them. What methods or tools could get these out so I can replace them? Thoughts on an impact screwdriver? Already posted this in the vise thread but I figured I would get all the opinions I can.

Thanks for any help!
 

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Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
Not an expert on Vices. The pin looks like a roll pin, they have a seem. I'd drive it out with a punch that is slightly smaller than the OD.
I'd use an impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer) on the screws. You may want to soak with penetrating oil first, heat may help as well.
 
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Andrewjk89

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Jan 1, 2024
Messages
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Not an expert on Vices. The pin looks like a roll pin, they have a seem. I'd drive it out with a punch that is slightly smaller than the OD.
I'd use an impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer) on the screws. You may want to soak with penetrating oil first, heat may help as well.
Appreciate it. Any idea whether I could buy a new roll pin to replace it?
 

Rst277

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That's a roll pin, common as dirt, you can find them everywhere. Use a punch to punch it out. I'd heat those screw heads with a propane torch as hot as possible and put some penetrant on them and let it cool. An impact screw driver helps to hold the bit against the screw. Check youtube. If those screws get anymore messed up, they will be hard to get out.... Proceed with caution.
 

Steevo

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I have removed screws like that with no slot left at all. I position a steel nut (not cad plated) over the screw head and weld through the center of the nut, welding it onto the screw head. Then (after the screws cool) with a box wrench on the nut and a small hammer, tap-tap-tap the wrench clockwise, then tap-tap-tap counter-clockwise, over and over. They usually loosen slowly as the rust crumbles from the threads. Just go very slow and don't force either way.
 
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Shiftless

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Steevo’s method is great.
For those of us without a welder, I suggest this. It worked for me removing a buggered up screw from a vise jaw.
Tool truck brand or this ICON brand from HF. Multi spline extractor.

2BA5FCC3-E02F-4E41-A271-1CEE9C0395F8.jpeg
 

Rst277

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Steevo’s method is great.
For those of us without a welder, I suggest this. It worked for me removing a buggered up screw from a vise jaw.
Tool truck brand or this ICON brand from HF. Multi spline extractor.

2BA5FCC3-E02F-4E41-A271-1CEE9C0395F8.jpeg
These are great as a last resort. Try the impact screwdriver first after the heat and penetrant. You might be able to improve the screw heads with a dremel and deepen / smooth out the slot the screwdriver has to fit in. If you don't have a dremel, snap off the tip of a hacksaw blade to expose the teeth and try to cut the slot deeper. It won't be fast but it will work and is cheap.
 

CTyankee

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I needed a few pins a couple of weeks ago for my snow blower impeller. Nobody, not even Ace had the size I needed in stock. Tractor Supply had every size imaginable and at a drastically cheaper price.
 

bdbecker

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That's a roll pin, common as dirt, you can find them everywhere. Use a punch to punch it out. I'd heat those screw heads with a propane torch as hot as possible and put some penetrant on them and let it cool. An impact screw driver helps to hold the bit against the screw. Check youtube. If those screws get anymore messed up, they will be hard to get out.... Proceed with caution.

Good advice...

I would add that they do make punches specifically for driving roll pins. They have a small dome shape on the tip to help keep the punch aligned with the pin when driving it. It's a small difference that can help reduce frustration. Nothing more annoying than accidentally peening in the pin you are trying to remove because your punch shifted while you were winding up with the hammer, especially if both sides are not easily accessible.
 

Shiftless

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Good advice...

I would add that they do make punches specifically for driving roll pins. They have a small dome shape on the tip to help keep the punch aligned with the pin when driving it. It's a small difference that can help reduce frustration. Nothing more annoying than accidentally peening in the pin you are trying to remove because your punch shifted while you were winding up with the hammer, especially if both sides are not easily accessible.
That sounds like the right tool to use.
I bet that a few seconds with a grinder or bench top belt sander would be enough to modify a regular punch for that purpose.
 
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