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Vise restoration procedures, techniques, and parts acquisition...

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Beezgeezer

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May 12, 2017
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1
See the link in my sig on vises. Your Wilton will have a number stamped on the bottom of the round slide, in the keyway. Check out the Wilton video in the same article.


skip to the end



I use Rustoleum self-etching primer. The reasons are twofold. One, it is a good primer. Two, it is in a can that will spray in any direction. It is $1/can more but it is worth it in my book. It dries quickly too. Top coat in 1/2hr.

If I don't sandblast I'll use Rustoleum Stops Rust primer and paint.
I have a couple of 4 1/2in. Wilton Machinists Vises with broken Jaw/slide. They used to be available as repair parts, but I don't see them anymore.
With all your experience can you help me find a couple of Jaws? Please?
 

ppknut

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Joined
Oct 13, 2017
Messages
17
Location
San Diego, Ca.
A buddy said "take this piece of junk if you want it."

Happy to oblige, I brought it home, did a quick wire brush treatment with a hand brush to get the worst of the rust and crud off. Then, after finding this thread, decided it really needed a complete redo.

Got out the bench grinder with a wire wheel and went to work. After first course of brushing:



Then after completed bench grinder brushing:



Then masking and primer:



First coat of enamel:



Then after second coat all done and waiting for a final cure period:



Should have spent more time on brushing up the handle, but I'm pleased at the overall results.

I also wish I had the original swivel handle and nut. Tried to find one online, HAHA. The thing probably dates to the early 1900's.
 
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drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,259
Location
Pacific Northwest
PP: are you able to post up a picture or two of your vise and maybe best to put it on this big vise thread and you'll be amazed at how many old vises there are to buy, use and even collect.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44782

also welcome to Garage Journal and hope you like it here as much as I do.

ALL: anybody have a good Reed 203 static cause my little guy had a tough life and i'll make it live again if you have one.

thanks and i'm near SEATTLE in case any of you are local and i've been know to make a trade or give some cash for parts so PM or email me with your vise pics and what you'd like for it.
 

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akasrick

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Apr 10, 2017
Messages
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Location
south jersey
ppknut

If you have the pictures on your machine, possibly, click "Go Advanced"

New massage box pops up
Top line next to the smiley, click the paper clip
New massage box pops up "Manage Attachments"
Try again

akasrick
 

akasrick

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Messages
798
Location
south jersey
ppknut
Read mine,

Scroll down click BB code is On do you match the examples, are you well formed?
That is all the help I can give.

akasrick
 

ppknut

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Joined
Oct 13, 2017
Messages
17
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Thanks. I considered painting the numbers and letters in white or black, but I kinda like it as is. Besides, I don't think I've got the dexterity or skills to paint with such a fine brush.
 

akasrick

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Location
south jersey
There is an issue with one of the picture hosting sites. Quite a few of the pictures won't show. I think it is worthy of being hosted here. Whatever, I'm off topic, Good Luck!
 

Summersteel

Active member
Joined
Aug 8, 2014
Messages
38
Location
Oregon
How do you guys keep the vise lead screw and square slide from rusting?
I've got a nice parker vise, but these parts rust even after I oil them.
I'm thinking of heating the metal with a torch and applying a few coats of boiled linseed oil.
Would this work?
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,259
Location
Pacific Northwest
SS: i like boiled linseed oil for my slides and vises and i've heard heating it up either with a torch or in an oven or smoker works better, but beware of the SMELL.

another easy way is to use the yellow can of Johnson paste wax.

good luck and you have some good thoughts and thinking going.
 

hasco

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Joined
Oct 10, 2017
Messages
299
I am Fixing up a Made in USA Craftsman 5 1/2" (51871) Vise. Problem is NO correct Vise Jaw faces available.(one is broken on mine) Got a pair of Wilton 5 1/2" faces but holes don't line up. How do I drill new holes in the Jaw face Steel ? Thanks
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
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Pacific Northwest
Hasco: i'm not sure any of us like making new holes in our vises for new jaws and most would either buy new jaws that fit or make a pair.

if you have time to post up a few pictures of your vise it might help cause some of us (including me) don't have vise model #'s memorized.

that said i think your vise is pretty common and since i think Columbian made them for Sears if you find another Columbian vise that is maybe broken that has good jaws those should work.

making jaws out of a chunk of copper or alluminum might be your best bet cause if you need more bit into your project those metals are usually softer than your project and also won't damage it like the serrated jaws will.

good luck

PP: nice work on the little vise and if you want to make a little cutter for your anvil's hole that would make it complete since you found the usually missing pipe jaws. also that hole on the side of the static jaw tower is interesting and i would have thought it was for a set of removable jaw covers, but there doesn't seem to be a hole on the other side.
 
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ppknut

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Oct 13, 2017
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Location
San Diego, Ca.
drivesitfar: Thanks. I do not know what you're referring to regarding the "little cutter" for the anvil hole. Is there some attachment I don't know about?

The hole in the side of the static jaw is a mystery to me as well. As you can see in the attached photo, it is shallow, with no threads, and has a clean, flat bottom. Your guess is as good as mine.

 

drivesitfar

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PP: if you could go in your GJ profile and put in your location or general area who knows maybe a member might have an extra hardy, but more likely you'll have to make one or maybe find one on Ebay.

here's what one looks like after i googled for it.
 

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drivesitfar

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PP: that's a nice place to hang your hat especially during the winter. have you lived there long?

best of luck on your next vise purchase cause i'm betting you have a few more in your future.

cheers
 

hasco

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I need to drill holes in the new jaw faces, What is my best choice ?
PTDC0209
[/IMG][/IMG]
 

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ppknut

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San Diego, Ca.
I don't know about the weather thing.....it was 109 yesterday and 105 today. HAHA.

I've been here since '87 when my wife and I escaped from the evil empire to the north (L.A.).

I"ve never bought a vise before. The columbian was my pop's. The Prentiss was a gift. But believe me, I'll be hitting the garage sales from now on.
 

454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
Messages
5,014
Location
Carver, MA
I need to drill holes in the new jaw faces, What is my best choice ?
PTDC0209
[/IMG][/IMG]

Most likely they're too hard to drill. Check by running a file over one in an inconspicuous spot. If the file won't cut it, they're too hard to drill. Drilling and tapping new holes in the vise casting might be an option. Where did you get the Wilton jaws from?
 

hasco

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Oct 10, 2017
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I finally got new jaw faces ! After searching for years,I found these (5 1/2") on Feebay.:beer:
 

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jimreed2160

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drivesitfar:
The hole in the side of the static jaw is a mystery to me as well. As you can see in the attached photo, it is shallow, with no threads, and has a clean, flat bottom. Your guess is as good as mine.


Perhaps the original user made a special holding fixture? Nah. Someone was probably working on something and just drilled too far.
 

MaverickDMD

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Dec 16, 2016
Messages
168
Location
Vancouver, BC
Interesting theories abound, but weird I agree. One would figure that an intentional hole by the maker would be in a meatier portion of the jaw, particularly if the intended hardy would have been exposed to forces exerted on a thinner weaker wall of the vise. But then again, it's American steel right? What could happen? So there's that. I don't buy the oops theory - clean hole, too lucky - unless it was just ********* luck. I'd go with the hardy theory and hope that another reader, better educated than me can help out. (a rookie mistake would appear on the dynamic jaw...)
 
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ppknut

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Oct 13, 2017
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Location
San Diego, Ca.
Agreed. The hole is far to clean and neat. If it had been an oops or intentional, I would think the bottom of the hole would show a convex base from the bit that drilled it (i.e., not perfectly flat). My guess is that it was manufactured/originally placed for some kind of additional tool, but that's just my opinion. I too would like to get a definitive answer by someone with more expertise. But I ain't worried about it. Just a bit curious.
 

drivesitfar

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HASCO: sounds like you have a working vise now and congrats on your find.

PP: is there just the one hole on the side of the jaw or is there one on the other side too?

the anvil hole is a normal thing and most times the cutter gets lost or not picked up or asked for at sales, but that hole on the side isn't normal. it's almost too well drilled to be an accident, but only holes i've seen made in the side of jaws are to hold on copper or aluminum jaw covers like these.

good luck on your next vise find that will probably dwarf your little columbian.
 

Gary1952

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Joined
Feb 14, 2018
Messages
1
I am Cleaning up a Columbian 604 1/2 vise and I could use some advice. The swivel base is frozen. I removed the bolt on the bottom of the vise but the top release "handle" will not budge in spite of PB Blaster and as much force as I can apply without bending the sliding bar.Any suggestions?

Thanks, Gary1952
 

ppknut

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Oct 13, 2017
Messages
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Location
San Diego, Ca.
I don't have much experience in breaking loose something like that. From what little I've read it seems that (other than letting it soak for a long time in a product like Kroil) heat and/or cold treatment sometimes work. Either freeze it or torch it???

Perhaps someone else will have a better answer.
 

crankshaftdan II

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Feb 25, 2009
Messages
1,293
Location
Milwaukee, burbs.
I've had a few with that same problem--mostly used a heat gun/blow dryer and get it pretty hot--take a wood/plastic/dead blow nylon(What ever you have that won't damage the handle) and give it a quick tightening blow(Clockwise) and than dose it with kroil/PB blaster or ?.. This will usually break the rust loose where they were over tightened! Try that a few times-same way before you try to remove same-keep repeating several times. If that doesn't work, soak for a week in atf and thinner-outside only and burn any rags that come in contact with same(Spontanious combustion-FIRE) ask me how I know!! Be cautious as atf & thinner are combustable-wear gloves and glasses.:shocking:
 

shammatt

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Joined
Mar 25, 2006
Messages
16
Location
Mount Vernon WA USA
Heat and a quality penetrant (Kroil, Yield, etc.) would be where I'd go first. Secondly, I'd try vibration....not just tapping with a hammer, but consider something like an air chisel but without the sharp end that could cause damage. Just vibrate the bejibbers out of it, letting the penetrant do its job.
Steve Hammatt
 

Jason29307

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Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Messages
2
Location
Spartanburg,SC
I am looking for an E clip/ crimped washer for a 4 1/2 Columbian vise i am restoring. I am not sure which one was on there. It does have any model number stamped on it. Just Columbian and 4/1/2. I know it is older than 1968 because my father had it installed when he had our house built. I would like to get the correct part other than fabricating something myself. I can't find much information on this online. Do you guys have any information or ideas to help me with this? Thanks so much.
 
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