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Vise restoration question

WatchHobby

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Dec 3, 2024
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First post ever. I'm trying to get an old Reed 204 1/2 tuned up. It's in superb shape other than the main handle has wallered out the hole in the screw ball, so the handle flops arounda ton. There is hardly any backlash in the jaw but you have to flop the handle 30 degrees before it turns due to the hole. Mine has pinned handle balls so I was thinking I can pull the handle out, build up the hole with some mig weld on both sides, then shape it back to a proper size ID with a round file, blue and oil. I thought about replacing with a larger thickness handle but this one is straight and really nice so I prefer to keep it. Any reason not to try this? Any other ideas?
 

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RTM

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You might want to Reed read here, and maybe post this there too, might get more exposure.

 
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tombell572

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I would agree with no704--it seems to me unlikely that a vise handle of that diameter could wallow out a hole that big given its function. Also, the hole appears somewhat concentric where any wollowing would be more lateral in line with force exerted by tightening of the vise jaws.

But do post this on the vise repair thread as suggested by RTM.

Tom B.
 

KMScott

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I’ve done several repairs like yours. If you want to keep the original handle even though you didn’t mention the diameter then possibly you could add a sleeve (.125 wall) and braze it place. I like using Silver Solder over brass. Bore the hole .010 max oversize and reattach your handle. 5/8 to 3/4 handle diameter with a 1-3/8 to 1-1/2” ball end peened in place is more like the original. Here is a Prentiss I restored that was wallered out like yours. Some meatballs were cast over the spindle so check yours before welding. Good luck.
 

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budget76

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Jan 19, 2016
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502
I’ve done several repairs like yours. If you want to keep the original handle even though you didn’t mention the diameter then possibly you could add a sleeve (.125 wall) and braze it place. I like using Silver Solder over brass. Bore the hole .010 max oversize and reattach your handle. 5/8 to 3/4 handle diameter with a 1-3/8 to 1-1/2” ball end peened in place is more like the original. Here is a Prentiss I restored that was wallered out like yours. Some meatballs were cast over the spindle so check yours before welding. Good luck.
Scott,

thinking about doing a similar repair on a wallowed out ball on one of my vises

concern is I don't have a machine shop, just a drill press and such. how tight do you do the handle to hole fit? 3/4 stock in a 3/4 ID sleeve, or do you leave some space?

thinking if i go 3/4 and 3/4, any slight bend is going to make the handle not slide thru
 

KMScott

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I bore my 3/4 handle holes .010 over size. I actually bounce my 3/4 end mill .005 in 4 quadrants in my Bridgeport. I use 1144 Cold Formed CRS bought at McMaster Carr. It doesn’t bend. Yes some say the handle should bend to save the spindle threads or nut but using a cheater bar should never be used on any vise handle and asking for trouble.
 

budget76

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I bore my 3/4 handle holes .010 over size. I actually bounce my 3/4 end mill .005 in 4 quadrants in my Bridgeport. I use 1144 Cold Formed CRS bought at McMaster Carr. It doesn’t bend. Yes some say the handle should bend to save the spindle threads or nut but using a cheater bar should never be used on any vise handle and asking for trouble.
thanks Scott. i won't have that capability, but I'm thinking I can find a 20mm ID sleeve to use with a 3/4" rod and get similar results.

Odds are I'm not using a cheater bar on a 5.5" vise as a guy doing basic automotive/fab work, so valid point that I probably won't bend it anyway.

biggest challenge for me will be drilling out the ball. we'll put the vintage delta drill press to the test
 
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