Wafer LED ceiling light wiring question

[JohnKal]

We're replacing the ceiling in my son's spare bedroom (leak damage). All sheetrock has been removed, Since there was only one light in the center of he room, he figured it'd be a good time to add some lights. I've wired in 4 wafer LED lights - see pic. My question is, is it ok to mount the junction box to the ceiling joists near where the 4" light will be installed? I'd have access to the J box when the wafer is removed. OR should the J box be "loose" and allow me to pull it out through the fixture hole ?

 

[cybrdyke]

Either.
In new construction, the box has to be mounted to something structural. Plus, you would probably use a mounting plate, which can also be used as a mount for the box. In remodel or retrofit, the box doesn't need to be attached to anything.
CD

 

[ripperd]

Another option for the future is doing a round or square box, and using something like this which does not have the separate driver box:

https://www.kichler.com/kichler/pro...downlights/1-light-3000k-led-flush-mount-wht/

 

[rlitman]

Either.
In new construction, the box has to be mounted to something structural. Plus, you would probably use a mounting plate, which can also be used as a mount for the box. In remodel or retrofit, the box doesn't need to be attached to anything.
CD

I would NOT mount the box to something structural, because you may need to remove it when it fails. I installed 35-ish of these last year, and one failed which I replaced. All the boxes were attached to the joists using velcro tape. Enough to hold everything in place for the sheetrock, and nothing more. The wires too MUST be loose. That way, when it comes time to replace, you pull the box and wire out through the hole.

 

[cybrdyke]

I would NOT mount the box to something structural, because you may need to remove it when it fails. I installed 35-ish of these last year, and one failed which I replaced. All the boxes were attached to the joists using velcro tape. Enough to hold everything in place for the sheetrock, and nothing more. The wires too MUST be loose. That way, when it comes time to replace, you pull the box and wire out through the hole.

I agree, but an inspector might insist on it being mounted if it's new construction.
Also, in some of the cheesier brands, they didn't think to make the driver box smaller than the hole size.
CD

 

[rlitman]

I agree, but an inspector might insist on it being mounted if it's new construction.
Also, in some of the cheesier brands, they didn't think to make the driver box smaller than the hole size.
CD

I'm only advocating it because the instructions show it that way, specifically for old work. An inspector can't overrule the instructions. You didn't throw those out, right?

If the box doesn't fit through the hole, then it isn't possible to be used in old work, so in that case, the box may indeed need to be secured. Yeah, I'd skip those.

In my case, I secured my Romex up to the box location, then left a loop I could pull down for service. The catch with this sort of use is that you must use a metal clamp like this, because there's no staple adjacent to the box:

 

[CJ7VFR]

How about posting the name/item number of the wafer lights you are referring to? That would help out a great deal.

Jim

 

[JohnKal]

How about posting the name/item number of the wafer lights you are referring to? That would help out a great deal.

Jim

They’re at my son’s place. I’ll get the info soon.

 

[Terry D]

If the drywall is removed, the best thing to use is new construction recessed lights. The lights that you have are for more of a remodel application. You can use them for what you have, just run the wires close to the location, drywall over them. Then cut the holes for the lights. The j boxes are designed to lay on the drywall so they can easily be removed. All splices need ri be accessible

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[ripperd]

I agree, but an inspector might insist on it being mounted if it's new construction.
Also, in some of the cheesier brands, they didn't think to make the driver box smaller than the hole size.
CD

Yup, my inspector wanted them mounted when I built my screenporch. I made sure there was enough wire so that you could get it back through the hole. I also made sure I lined it up so you could reach up through the hole and reach the screw that held it on. I really do hope I don't have to test that though!

 

[JohnKal]

I agree, but an inspector might insist on it being mounted if it's new construction.
Also, in some of the cheesier brands, they didn't think to make the driver box smaller than the hole size.
CD

Yup, my inspector wanted them mounted when I built my screenporch. I made sure there was enough wire so that you could get it back through the hole. I also made sure I lined it up so you could reach up through the hole and reach the screw that held it on. I really do hope I don't have to test that though!

The driver box will fit through the 4 1/4" hole, thankfully.

I'll just coil the romex so there'll be enough slack to bring it through the hole if need be.

This is what he bought.

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/1?ui...762373&th=1706ae4f3274aa05&view=att&disp=safe

I like the fact you can adjust the color temp of the lights.


Thanks guys for all the help, much appreciated.

 

[TheVodkaMan]

Interesting...

 

[75gmck25]

I've used a two or three different brands of wafer LED lights, and found that the cheapest ones are missing a few key features.
- Better ones have the bracket on the side so you can hang it over a screw and then tighten down. It makes it easy to pull the box off if you need to. Cheap ones require you to put the screw through a hole inside the box.
- Better ones have plastic wire retention grommets so you don't need to use any additional items. Cheap ones just have a 1/2" knockout in the metal, so you need to add a plastic or metal grommet to protect and retain the wire.

Bruce