Wago products.

[woody 73]

Just curious as I am by no means an electrical person. I have hired an electrician to wire one part of my garage for 220v for my machines and I asked him if he ever used wago products. His answer just blew me away as he replied they are not safe, and he will not use them. So, I asked him why they are not safe, and he told me he had a box of then that went bad, and they burned up.

You tell me is he full of horse ****, they burn up when used, or heck no you never had any problems using them.

He seems like a very knowledgeable, electrician so I am in the dark as they say.

Woody

 

[mike93lx]

And? There is someone that hates every product out there

 

[eejack]

I have been an electrician for a long time and honestly, even though I use wagos for some particular tasks I find them a bit gimmicky. Maybe it is because they are reminiscent of backstab receptacles, or just because they are 'new' and I am more comfortable with 'old'.

The younger journeymen who work for me seem very comfortable with them.

To answer your question, I have never had any problems with them and I prefer using them on small stranded to heavier solid connections ( #16 gauge stranded lighting whips connected to solid #12 MC cable for an example ). The cost difference still makes standard wirenuts my preferred choice for most any other splice. When you are going through thousands of wirenuts an extra 30 cents a splice will add up.

 

[Zeke]

I think that "burned up" is a reckless statement. Maybe I wouldn't use them in the wall for my 120v compressor.

 

[dutchgray]

The electrician we use has been using them for years now, not had a single issue with them on any of our jobs.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

he's full of

 

[sparky 1971]

I am not anti Wago. I use them for florescent-LED conversions and for florescent ballast changes. I can't bring myself to trust them for anything where there might be a considerable load, and I won't use them with stranded wire.

I have a friend that has a friend that does a bunch of residential wiring and was using stab in connectors almost exclusively. I can't say for sure that they were Wago brand or not though. One day I mentioned to my friend that I was thinking about using Wago's the next time I did a basement finish and he told me his friend quit using them because of too many call backs. I don't know how many is too many and I don't know the reason(s). It could have been bad install just as easy as a bad product, I don't know. I do know that time is money, and one call back for warranty pretty much destroys the profit so I'm staying away from them for circuit make up, at least for now and I'm old enough that I doubt that changes. I like wire nits.

 

[yatg]

I like wire nits.

Yuk!

 

[428PI]

I used some of the cheap just push in Wagos in my box in my shed to see how they work. No problems so far but don't use them heavily. I'll get them replaced next week when a new breaker box is installed. But I have a problem with a wire nut in my bathroom light fixture. I'm not sold on wire nuts either but of course they have been used for years now.

 

[billconner]

I only know that techs that do low voltage controls love them. The major manufacturer of this gear ships them on devices. I've never heard a bad thing about them for this use but just from pictures, I wonder about them at line voltages.

The right size and brands if wire nuts, good lineman's pliers, and the basic skills seem pretty proven and reliable.

 

[mike93lx]

I used some of the cheap just push in Wagos in my box in my shed to see how they work. No problems so far but don't use them heavily. I'll get them replaced next week when a new breaker box is installed. But I have a problem with a wire nut in my bathroom light fixture. I'm not sold on wire nuts either but of course they have been used for years now.

Does wago make push ins or are they the ideals?

I thought wagos are only lever nuts

 

[Firebrick43]

Does wago make push ins or are they the ideals?

I thought wagos are only lever nuts

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CNKJ81M/?tag=atomicindus08-20

They make push ins



To the OP.

I use them for floresent lights and such to (the lever ones)

But refuse to use them for anything over a few amps.

They use the same style of low surface area connection that back stab receptacles and switches use. Everything depends on a cheap piece of thin flat copper plated steel to maintain spring tension on one small area.

And who hasn't seen one of those charred and failed?

 

[428PI]

Does wago make push ins or are they the ideals?

I thought wagos are only lever nuts

They were Wago push ins. No levers. I tried to do some research on them on youtube but no luck.

 

[ZX3ST]

Wago makes many products. I wonder if he's talking about the "stab-in" or "push-in" style? I don't trust those from ANY manufacturer.

Wago's lever nuts (series 221 and 222) are great, and I'll never use a wire nut again for 10awg and thinner. Especially when there's a mix of solid/stranded and for light fixtures.

Push In style

Lever Nuts

 

[sparky 1971]

Does wago make push ins or are they the ideals?

I thought wagos are only lever nuts

Wago makes push in connectors. Two, three, four, and six port for sure and I carry the two, four, and six's.

Other than a few fixtures that come with lever nuts, I've never used them. For me, all the fiddling around getting everything lined up while looking through the cheater part of my glasses takes way longer than a wire nut.

 

[LOW1]

I like the style where you pull back the lever, insert the wires, and then push the lever back to lock position.

I don’t like the push in only style that does not have a locking lever.

Just seems too insecure for my liking.

 

[SRU1436]

I’m not an electrician, just a tinkerer around the house. I started using the lever kind around the house when replacing or upgrading a fixer or socket in the house or garage. I do follow up with wrapping the connector and part of the wires in electrical tape, I did the same thing with wire nuts before I learned about wago connectors. The electrical tape is added security In my mind.

 

[Zeke]

I like the style where you pull back the lever, insert the wires, and then push the lever back to lock position.

I don’t like the push in only style that does not have a locking lever.

Just seems too insecure for my liking.

You know they are thoroughly tested? But I guess so were back-stab receptacles at one time. I do like Wagos for light fixtures as mentioned above. Especially in older houses. A single wire Wago saved my **** once when I severely nicked a neutral 1 inch from the back of the box.

I wouldn't leave home w/o a couple.

 

[Chukster]

'They'll burn up!!'

FUD, Fear, uncertainty and doubt.

Oh, they'll burn up?

They why do they have a UL listing? Riddle me this, Batman!

The Wago 221 lever-nuts are UL 486C listed, as well as CCA EN 60998 and KEMA/KEUR EN 60998 certified.

Wire nuts will burn up too if you do things like not install them correctly, etc.

Find a new electrician, IMO

 

[Jim greengo]

Just curious as I am by no means an electrical person. I have hired an electrician to wire one part of my garage for 220v for my machines and I asked him if he ever used wago products. His answer just blew me away as he replied they are not safe, and he will not use them. So, I asked him why they are not safe, and he told me he had a box of then that went bad, and they burned up.

You tell me is he full of horse ****, they burn up when used, or heck no you never had any problems using them.

He seems like a very knowledgeable, electrician so I am in the dark as they say.

Woody

Wago products ****. There,I fixed it for ya! Hahaha

 

[Firebrick43]

'They'll burn up!!'

FUD, Fear, uncertainty and doubt.

Oh, they'll burn up?

They why do they have a UL listing? Riddle me this, Batman!

The Wago 221 lever-nuts are UL 486C listed, as well as CCA EN 60998 and KEMA/KEUR EN 60998 certified.

Wire nuts will burn up too if you do things like not install them correctly, etc.

Find a new electrician, IMO

Correct with wire nuts, if you don't install them correctly.

How do you incorrectly install a push connector? Have you never seen a back stab receptacle or switch burned? They are UL listed as well. So riddle me that ?

 

[Jim greengo]

You know they are thoroughly tested? But I guess so were back-stab receptacles at one time. I do like Wagos for light fixtures as mentioned above. Especially in older houses. A single wire Wago saved my **** once when I severely nicked a neutral 1 inch from the back of the box.

I wouldn't leave home w/o a couple.

All of those commercials you see on TV at night that start with something like: did you use or take.........?
Call us ............. (insert favorite lawyers name)
We're all thoroughly tested at 1 point also,just saying. Hahaha

 

[u3b3rg33k]

I like WAGOs for tying the piddly 18/20ga light fixture wires to 12ga THHN. wire nuts claim to do that but I don't always trust them for that. also I really hate it when people hang receptacles off light fixtures (or lighting circuits in general) but what do I know?

 

[Kuma601]

An aside, this hand me thinking how Doc Brown (Back to the Future) would have wired the Flux Capacitor to handle the 1.21 gigawatt.

I have some alu wiring that stopped me from replacing the remaining switches and receptacles here, had looked at those lever Wago's too.

 

[AA/FC]

I have been an electrician for a long time and honestly, even though I use wagos for some particular tasks I find them a bit gimmicky. Maybe it is because they are reminiscent of backstab receptacles, or just because they are 'new' and I am more comfortable with 'old'.

<snip>

Bingo. That is exactly how I feel, too.

Those pictures above confirm just how I feel about wagos.

 

[egdede]

And we can't trust wire nuts either, what will we do....?

 

[u3b3rg33k]

THAT failure is because someone used the wire nut wrong. -wire nut enthusiasts, probably

 

[laser3kw]

are there counterfeit Wago's?

 

[mike93lx]

are there counterfeit Wago's?

I've seen imitations, but in a little googling, there doesn't seem to be many/any reports of counterfeits.

But most good items with strong brand recognition do have counterfeits, so I wouldn't be surprised. Usually the manufacturer's have a page on their site about spotting fakes and I can't find anything on Wago's

 

[mrVanagon]

are there counterfeit Wago's?

I've ordered Wago lever-nuts on Amazon and gotten fakes. I was most of the way through a box of them before I noticed that they were marked differently than others I've used in the past.

 

[Model A Fan]

I've been using Wagos for when I had five wires to tie together as the wire nut just didn't seem to be a good choice for tightness or security. I had it in a junction box and used the Ideal push-in types for 4 and 3 wire connections. As others have said, it wouldn't be a good idea to seal them up in walls but for inside junction boxes where you can access them, it wouldn't be bad. Also, only dry locations where you use them too. If using them in wet locations, I guess I'd seal them with electrical tape as best as possible?

The thing I like about the push-in Ideal brand types is they're cheap and they're easier to stuff back into a box as you don't have a huge knot twisted up to jam back in.

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

And? There is someone that hates every product out there

Yep... Wago connectors are the equivalent of Sharkbite fittings, no love from tradesmen

 

[428PI]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is when dealing with 12 gauge wire is that it's so stiff that when you stuff it back into the box it tends to want to unwind the screws that hold it secure. I had this happen to a surface mount box in my shed. I needed to replace the box because I lost a screw when rewiring it. I bought a new one and I had two 12-2 wires in the smaller box. I got it together and noticed my light was flickering when plugging in a cord into the outlet. Found the screw had loosened. And I know how tight to get a screw to start with. I am going to say that perhaps 12 gauge wire has caused more concerns than overloading a 14 gauge wire has just because it's so darn stiff when trying to deal with it.

 

[dave*99]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is when dealing with 12 gauge wire is that it's so stiff that when you stuff it back into the box it tends to want to unwind the screws that hold it secure. I had this happen to a surface mount box in my shed. I needed to replace the box because I lost a screw when rewiring it. I bought a new one and I had two 12-2 wires in the smaller box. I got it together and noticed my light was flickering when plugging in a cord into the outlet. Found the screw had loosened. And I know how tight to get a screw to start with. I am going to say that perhaps 12 gauge wire has caused more concerns than overloading a 14 gauge wire has just because it's so darn stiff when trying to deal with it.

Are you hooking the conductors clockwise around the screws? Such that tightening the screws draws tip of the wire clockwise around the screw.

I usually see loose screws when the wire is wrapped backwards and then receptacle is mashed in the box.

 

[Firebrick43]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is when dealing with 12 gauge wire is that it's so stiff that when you stuff it back into the box it tends to want to unwind the screws that hold it secure. I had this happen to a surface mount box in my shed. I needed to replace the box because I lost a screw when rewiring it. I bought a new one and I had two 12-2 wires in the smaller box. I got it together and noticed my light was flickering when plugging in a cord into the outlet. Found the screw had loosened. And I know how tight to get a screw to start with. I am going to say that perhaps 12 gauge wire has caused more concerns than overloading a 14 gauge wire has just because it's so darn stiff when trying to deal with it.

If it’s wrapped the right way, shoving into the box should try to tighten it not loosen it. Also if you have the right length wires and pre fold them in the correct place it goes into they go into the box easily and without fuss

 

[428PI]

f it’s wrapped the right way, shoving into the box should try to tighten it not loosen it. Also if you have the right length wires and pre fold them in the correct place it goes into they go into the box easily and without fuss

I call horse pucky on that one. I'm not an electrician so don't work with it everyday. The problem I had was with a surface mount so no folding of wires-only minor movement when fastening down outlet and cover. Now go to a regular outlet and if wires are folded the same between the hot and cold one would be loosening and the other tightening on the screws. The last one I did was on a commercial outlet and I used the slip in (not just push in but using the screw and small bracket behind screw to hold the wires tight). Seemed to work a lot better but was using 14 gauge wiring too.

 

[428PI]

Are you hooking the conductors clockwise around the screws?

Yes of course.

 

[Firebrick43]

I call horse pucky on that one. I'm not an electrician so don't work with it everyday. The problem I had was with a surface mount so no folding of wires-only minor movement when fastening down outlet and cover. Now go to a regular outlet and if wires are folded the same between the hot and cold one would be loosening and the other tightening on the screws. The last one I did was on a commercial outlet and I used the slip in (not just push in but using the screw and small bracket behind screw to hold the wires tight). Seemed to work a lot better but was using 14 gauge wiring too.

I don't know why your calling someone named horse pucky? Maybe thats why you are getting poor information?

If the wire is pushed towards the receptacle (or reversed) its imparting a force on screw that causes it to move in a clockwise rotation and therefore tighten. These are 12 Gauge wires.

Surface mount? They still have at least an 1.125" depth. You still need to fold wires. Where do you think they go if you don't? Every which way!

 

[428PI]

I don't know why your calling someone named horse pucky? Maybe thats why you are getting poor information?

I called your information horse pucky. Yes, look at your situation carefully. You pull both hot and cold wires down. What happens? The white one loosens up and the black one on the other side gets tighter.

 

[428PI]

Surface mount? They still have at least an 1.125" depth. You still need to fold wires. Where do you think they go if you don't? Every which way!

Here's what I mean by surface mount. The wires come out the top or bottom without the folding behind them. I ended up having to split the romex to get the wires to come out properly. Jerry rigged it really.