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The Wait: a 30X40 Residential Detached Build

CamMark

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I mentioned some of the backstory in my introduction thread. The wait to get started is over, now we just wait for the finish!

This will be a 30x40 pole building with 12ft walls and an 8ft lean-to running the length of the right side. A single 10x16 residential style door will be flanked by a window on each side. The primary use will be automotive maintenance and associated tinkering.

2022-12-02 15_01_07-Window.png

Here's the same location a year ago, only from a different angle. No small change!

2022-12-02 15_14_28-Window.png

I suspect there will be worthwhile updates on a weekly basis through the end of the year. I'll do my best to keep up with posting them.
 

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CamMark

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Weather for the week had been more damp than hoped for, but the crew made up for lost time Tuesday and got the basic structure together by Wednesday evening.

IMG_20221207_172448.jpg

Two sides had been covered by Thursday afternoon, then Friday morning a third side. Friday afternoon was a scramble to get the roof on as rain approached. They got it all up but only have a few screws tacking the last few panels on.

IMG_20221210_164710.jpg

Still soaking it all in and getting used to it finally being there. The layout and relative position of our house means it can be seen from almost every room so I've been stopping throughout the day and staring out the window like a creeper... Haha.

We have been reviewing the interior layout of the shop and electrical plan now that we can walk through and gut check. Glad we did because we have almost completely reimagined it! The space claim for a future half bath has swapped ends and the primary work space with the 2-post move from left to right. This was one of the earlier layouts I had tried in CAD but ditched for one reason or another. In person it makes the most sense for my particular workflow.
 

dougf

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Congratulations, this looks fantastic! I'll be following and looking forward to seeing the progress!
 
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CamMark

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Yes, 2" vinyl backed fiberglass. It was the sole option offered by the builder, but I may come back with something more in the future depending on how it performs comfort-wise.
 
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CamMark

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Congratulations, this looks fantastic! I'll be following and looking forward to seeing the progress!
Thanks, we think so too! It was important to have the "residential" look since it's visible from the street and we're in a suburban neighborhood. We didn't have an HOA with architectural covenants to abide by, and that was intentional. But it was important to us that it generally match the local aesthetic.
 

NHBandit

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I like it. It's actually exactly the same size as mine but has a totally different look to it with the one big overhead door on the end. Here's mine.
 

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CamMark

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I like it. It's actually exactly the same size as mine but has a totally different look to it with the one big overhead door on the end. Here's mine.
It's interesting to me how uncommon our particular combination seems to be especially with the 30x40 being so popular. I have had attached garages with one big door and two smaller. Each has pros and cons but I prefer the flexibility of a wide entry.
 

Uncle murph

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Weather for the week had been more damp than hoped for, but the crew made up for lost time Tuesday and got the basic structure together by Wednesday evening.

IMG_20221207_172448.jpg

Two sides had been covered by Thursday afternoon, then Friday morning a third side. Friday afternoon was a scramble to get the roof on as rain approached. They got it all up but only have a few screws tacking the last few panels on.

IMG_20221210_164710.jpg

Still soaking it all in and getting used to it finally being there. The layout and relative position of our house means it can be seen from almost every room so I've been stopping throughout the day and staring out the window like a creeper... Haha.

We have been reviewing the interior layout of the shop and electrical plan now that we can walk through and gut check. Glad we did because we have almost completely reimagined it! The space claim for a future half bath has swapped ends and the primary work space with the 2-post move from left to right. This was one of the earlier layouts I had tried in CAD but ditched for one reason or another. In person it makes the most sense for my particular workflow.
Beautiful building,I hope it provides many years of enjoyment and happy memories.
 
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CamMark

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2022-12-14 09_28_00-Window.png

Uncle murph, I think it looks even better now that all the siding and trim is done!

I am already validating the interior layout with a few vehicles parked inside. This will be a much more comfortable workspace than the attached garage which is shared with a growing collection of household/family life miscellany.

The concrete sub-contractor has offered to pour an extra thick footing for the 2-post lift with a regular 4" slab everywhere else to save on material cost. I have placed stakes to locate that.

It's looking like the plumbing rough-in and conduit for the breaker panel will go in the ground this Friday. Once we pass inspection on that, it's full steam ahead for concrete. While the concrete is curing, we plan to order four color samples of the Eagle acid stain. The plan is to try it out on a section of the front walkway which will be going away prior to our spring landscaping blitz. Once the color choice is settled we will top it with BallistiX NCO. From everything I have read, that seems the top choice for clear protection.
 
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CamMark

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We passed a few milestones this weekend on the build.

Plumbing is in the ground. Provision for a toilet, lav. sink and utility sink along with the supply line from the house and a cleanout for easy maintenance. The wall of the bathroom will sit somewhere between the cleanout (far right in photo) and the sink drain at the edge of the window. The drain has been tied into the existing run between the house and sewer main, about 35ft from where it exits the building.

2022-12-19 09_49_29-Photo - Google Photos.png

For electrical, 95ft of direct bury cable was routed from the crawl space under the house to conduit near the middle of the south wall where the breaker panel will be. Also, some of the interior lighting was tested... with a 100ft extension cord from the patio. I'll share more on that later, but suffice it to say we'll have plenty of light.

Back to waiting again for inspections. But we are happy with the progress and thankful to get to work with some great contractors.
 
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CamMark

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To lull myself into a sense of progress while waiting for the inspection I spent some time over the holiday break installing more lights.

2023-01-03 15_09_55-Window.png

I really like that when they are off they are nearly invisible. If you haven't found them yet, they are on the underside of the three main trusses. See the Amazon product page here. I ordered four additional cables to link it all together in this configuration. The kit included junction connectors for end-to-end install, but I opted for a 12-18" gap between each unit.

I have been very eager to get the front goose-neck installed. It took some trial and error to get a mounting solution that I was happy with. I ended up building this square block from some 3/4" thick scrap wood and leftover base board material from a recent home reno project. then I traced the profile of the siding (Central States Panel-loc Plus if you're curious) onto the edge. Then through the unsanctioned use of various power tools I grooved the back of the block to clear the ribs.

The intent was to get this block up as a proof of concept then replace with a more weather resistant one for the final install. But, I think I'll leave it there and see how it ages. It's only a spacer after all. The round metal weather-proof electrical box is lagged through and into the truss. 12" or so of conduit then feeds through the rest of the central wood structure.

2023-01-03 15_24_42-Window.png

This is still more or less just a mockup as there is no power run yet. For now it's something else nice to look at until the door below shows up. Only two more weeks for that milestone I am told. By then we expect to have cured concrete and maybe even working plumbing. Time will tell.
 
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CamMark

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Project update: plumbing rough in passed inspection which has cleared us to move forward with the concrete pour. The grading/formwork/site prep for which is scheduled to happen today. It's expected to take a few days to get the prep work inspected so they are projecting the pour will happen early next week.

Once concrete has cured (enough to walk on) we will shift our focus to electrical. I have spent some time considering the details for this as I'd like to get it right the first time and if not, at least have something that is easy to change in the future if I'm not 100% satisfied with it.

Here is my plan for outlets:
1673444364982.png
Romex (yellow line) to feed octagon boxes at each post, excluding the corners at the fourth girt (about 10 ft from the floor). from there a straight length of 1/2" EMT to a 2-gang, exposed-work metal box near or on the second girt. This will position all the outlets for bench/"counter" height access.

This is the most cost effective way I have come up with to provide good protection to the conductors where most bumps are going to occur without the expense of running the whole system in conduit. I'm back and forth on which would be better- mounting the box to the side of the post or on the face of the girt. On the girt I could have some more flexibility on the horizontal position, the post more in the vertical.
 
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CamMark

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I think I can now say we are nearing the end of the initial construction phase.

There is an insulated structure with (still curing) concrete.

2023-01-24 12_56_32-Photo - Google Photos.png

All doors and windows are now in place so the building and what it contains can be secured. You may also notice that the gravel drive is in along with some mulch for erosion control. We are now done with the mud we have been dealing with for the last four months. The drive door is a CHI raised long-panel, vinyl backed insulated steel door with a jackshaft operator.

2023-01-24 12_57_49-Photo - Google Photos.png

Without the power hooked up yet we did setup and testing of the door with an extension cord. However I did realize after the fact that this operator has an internal battery back up. I'm not sure how many open/close cycles I can get out of that, but happily it's very easy to open manually.

2023-01-24 13_20_05-Photo - Google Photos.png

The earliest our electrical/plumbing contractor can get back out is two weeks. While we wait there is plenty to do otherwise. I attempted a concrete stain test with the samples I ordered from Eagle. While I know it wouldn't be a direct comparison to the final look, I figured staining some cheap concrete pavers would be a quick and easy way to get the gist of each color.

The one leaning on the post is "Taupe", then from left to right: "Graphite", "Wheat" and "Amber".
2023-01-24 13_26_03-Photo - Google Photos.png

I think this was worth the effort. We could set them all next to the building or inside to see how the colors worked (or not). The Graphite ended up darker than I'd prefer and the Wheat is less of an earth-tone and more... bright yellow than expected. My wife and I both like the Taupe which to be honest is the most boring of the four but to me is still more visually interesting than bare concrete with a clear sealer. I also like the Amber, but my wife is skeptical.

For the next round then we will do an Amber vs. Taupe on the front sidewalk slated for demolition. This should be a more realistic comparison on a larger scale. Either way we will chose one and commit by placing the order to do all 1200sq/ft.

This is nearly the same process we have used on paint selection for the home renovations we have been doing for the past 5 years. I know this kind of thing will drive a lot of couples crazy, but we genuinely enjoy the process.
 

Jawn

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I'd be inclined to run the whole shebang in conduit. I did that in my 30x40 pole building, actually did all the electrical myself (new 200A service). I am envious of your insulation... wish I'd gone that route. And your porch. As soon as I step outside, I'm in the rain.
Here's my 30x40 (also in a residential area)
 
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CamMark

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I'd be inclined to run the whole shebang in conduit. I did that in my 30x40 pole building, actually did all the electrical myself (new 200A service). I am envious of your insulation... wish I'd gone that route. And your porch. As soon as I step outside, I'm in the rain.
Here's my 30x40 (also in a residential area)
I'm breaking out the electrical into phases (pun not intended, but appreciated all the same) so initially I'll have my contractor wire up a central 20a branch with three outlets- one overhead for a cable reel, and a 15a run for the lights. That should make it an easy space to work in with basic needs covered. I can build out from there as material costs and/or funding allows so conduit is probably what I'll go with.

I'm eager to seeing how this insulation does. I don't have high expectations, I just figured something is better than nothing as a starting point.

I'm fortunate enough to have several friends and family members who also have pole buildings. I was able to get a pretty good list together of what I did and didn't want before we sat down with the builder to nail down the details. Covered entry and extended overhangs were high on the list.

I had come across your building once or twice both in the planning stages and while waiting those 6 long months between our order and ground breaking. You have similar proportions and color which helped me visualize mine. Thanks for the inspiration!
 

dougf

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Really beautiful building, thanks for updating this thread! I will definitely refer back to it when its time for my shop build.
 

My Old Tools

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I did acid stained concrete in a barndo years ago. It wasn't hard. Sealer will need re-doing periodically. I won't be stain proof, spills will show. I don't think I would do it in a shop. Epoxy would be better. Every swirl and dark spot in your concrete finish will show through.
 
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CamMark

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I did acid stained concrete in a barndo years ago. It wasn't hard. Sealer will need re-doing periodically. I won't be stain proof, spills will show. I don't think I would do it in a shop. Epoxy would be better. Every swirl and dark spot in your concrete finish will show through.
The intended top coat is Ballistix NCO which is supposed to be well suited for shop use. The non-uniform look of a stained floor is part of the plan actually. I'm not trying to hide the concrete, only make it easier to keep clean and slightly more interesting to look at.

Initially I was going to go with epoxy, maybe even a custom color blend for the chips. But one of the upsides to the months long wait between design and construction is having time to explore and compare options on things like floor coatings, lighting, ect. The more examples I looked at, both online and in person, the more I realized I preferred the look of stain.

And if the Ballistix is half as good as it promises to be, I'll still be getting my moneys worth.
 

My Old Tools

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The intended top coat is Ballistix NCO which is supposed to be well suited for shop use. The non-uniform look of a stained floor is part of the plan actually. I'm not trying to hide the concrete, only make it easier to keep clean and slightly more interesting to look at.

Initially I was going to go with epoxy, maybe even a custom color blend for the chips. But one of the upsides to the months long wait between design and construction is having time to explore and compare options on things like floor coatings, lighting, ect. The more examples I looked at, both online and in person, the more I realized I preferred the look of stain.

And if the Ballistix is half as good as it promises to be, I'll still be getting my moneys worth.
I felt the same until I used it. You can wear through the color. Where my desk chair sat it wore off in a few years.
 
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CamMark

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IMO, that amber color looks the best. A little more interesting than the taupe.
In a vacuum, the amber is my favorite. But the taupe is going to work better with the rest of the colors involved.

These are the results of the larger test. Taupe at top, amber below.
IMG_20230128_174148.jpg
 

jpaw

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I was cheap and used a basic concrete sealer and regret it.
Having worked on expoy floors and having it in my attached garage I knew the positives and negatives of it. And I knew that I didn't want to have to protect my floor from normal shop work so epoxy was out. I sealed a small corner of the bare concrete and the look was ok for what I wanted to accomplish.
I was mainly looking to prevent staining and make for easier cleanups without the worry of damaging the look. I knew going in that the sealer I was using wouldn't hold up to chemicals well however I didn't plan on it turning gooey.
It sounds like you have done your research and it should look great when it's done.
I'm kind of liking the amber myself.
 

jpaw

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My favorite look for a work area is burnished concrete but I understand that it is a lot of work.
 

JbTech

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I have been very eager to get the front goose-neck installed.
This is still more or less just a mockup as there is no power run yet.

Building looks great!
Mine is similar at 30Wx32Lx12'.
Interested in what Goose neck lights you were happy with. I've been looking, but it's hard to tell what looks right installed.
Great tips on install too!
After 2 years, I just had 100A power run from the house last week. Baby steps!
 

Wes Tex

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I really like your garage/shop. I also have a 30x40 orientated the same way as yours. I have a south entry rollup door and a north rollup door facing an alley. I open both doors in the summer to get that south breeze flowing through. It is interesting to see the different construction ideas depending upon the area. In my part of Texas the foundation is usually poured first. Once the concrete was down, I was able to roll the scaffolding around to work on whatever I needed to do. Mine has burnished concrete and is very east to clean. It helped to have a son-in-law who was in the concrete business when the shop was built.
 
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CamMark

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I really like your garage/shop. I also have a 30x40 orientated the same way as yours. I have a south entry rollup door and a north rollup door facing an alley. I open both doors in the summer to get that south breeze flowing through. It is interesting to see the different construction ideas depending upon the area. In my part of Texas the foundation is usually poured first. Once the concrete was down, I was able to roll the scaffolding around to work on whatever I needed to do. Mine has burnished concrete and is very east to clean. It helped to have a son-in-law who was in the concrete business when the shop was built.
Initially there were plans for a door at both ends for air flow but both cost and desire for max wall space nixed it. I'll most likely add an exhaust fan opposite the drive door eventually.

My father-in-law has a similar building nearby but about 50% bigger built by the same company, the same way almost 40 years prior. This method seems well suited to our area.
 
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CamMark

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Lights!

2023-02-13 08_14_53-Photo.png

This has been the most difficult part to visualize mentally so it's a big relief to see that it looks even better than imagined. The string lights on the lean-to are run along a 3/16" tensioned steel cable to keep them straight. the run was exactly 48' so it would have come up short had we let it hang down a bit.

JbTech, the gooseneck is a 23" Redondo from Steel Lighting co. Link. My wife was particular about the exterior stuff so I left that up to her. I probably would have found something cheaper, but I think it was worth the cost. I'm impressed with the quality of materials and finishes and expect it to hold up well.
 
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CamMark

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The pace has slowed now that we hit the electrical power milestone. We had stretched the finances a little to meet that target so we want to be careful not to get carried away any further. By our original 5-year plan which was broken out into annual phases, we ended up doing the first two in less than 12 months and part of the third right after. But it made good sense to go about it that way and I don't regret it whatsoever.

But now we can actually use the space!2023-03-10 09_14_31-Window.png
I have the floor tarped until we get the color and sealer down just to make prep and cleaning as easy as possible. And as you'll notice, There are now some projects in place. While it may look rough on the surface, the S-10 is a "completed" project (they're never really done...) and the resident shop truck. The FJ40 has been a long term, slow pace ordeal as it has always been stored somewhere else. I'm hopeful that will accelerate now that it's on site. And under the gray tarp is a project that served as daily driver for 7 or 8 years and has decent paint so I keep it covered. A 2000 Civic that I am glad I held on to with the prices people are paying for them these days. And by the tool box, my 3yo son. Always eager to be in the shop with me.

The slowed pace has helped redirect focus on the sorting of the contents of the attached garage. Anything that generates sawdust, keeps the yard clean or helps with home improvement projects will stay put. Anything that makes sparks or chips or is automotive in nature will migrate to the shop. I am not sure if I'll dedicate a thread to it, but I do plan to share some of the attached garage once the migration begins in earnest.
 
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CamMark

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Floor treatment is in progress. The final steps should be complete within the next few days.

The final combination of products I decided to use were the Taupe acid stain from Eagle I. F. P. (along with their Etch & Clean and Neutralizer/Degreaser) and a densifier (Lithi-Tek 4500) and penetrating sealer (Siloxa-Tek 8510) from Ghostshield. I also picked up an acid pump sprayer, a deck scrub brush (A.K.A. acid brush), masking materials and requisite PPE.

Total materials cost was just shy of $1,400. That works out to about $1.17/sq. ft. I hope to have enough left-over densifier and sealer to do the exterior surfaces as well, but that wasn't part of the initial calculation so it would be a bonus.

This is the "before" shot after moving everything out and sweeping (several times!) The foreground in direct sunlight looks a lot more blue in this photo that real life. Color toward the back wall is more accurate.
2023-03-20 13_17_07-Window.png

For the Etch & Clean I started with a 15'x20' section and quickly found out that that was too large. Some areas dried before I could get to them with the scrub brush. I moved on with more manageable sections, 10'x15' while the first dried fully. I ended up going back over the first section to remove the white residue left behind.

I ran a roll of duct tape around the skirt board and posts then added some splash protection with rosin paper. I would have preferred wax or film backed paper and at half the width. But this is what was in stock and did the job well enough.

2023-03-20 13_36_54-Window.png

This is the look minutes after application of the acid stain. I used exactly 2 gallons diluted 1:1 with water to cover 1,200 sq ft. Following instruction on the label, we let it sit for 6 hours to do it's thing.

2023-03-20 14_10_52-Window.png

This is still mid-process, after the first round of neutralizing and rinsing, but dry areas give a general idea of the results. I was a little surprised with the depth and variation, but not disappointed!

The physical labor required to get it cleaned and residue-free was also more than expected. We could have used two or three more people to help and have been much less sore at the end of the day, but I would not have guessed that going in.

The densifier was applied once everything was dry again. While the label indicates 700-1000 sq ft coverage for each gallon of concentrate, with all the variables involved and the risk of over-application in mind I ended up getting the whole area covered with less than one gallon of concentrate. The porosity is relatively low I suspect. Distilled water was used for diluting to the right use ratio which supposedly maximizes the performance.

I'll add a final "after" shot once the sealer is on and everything is finally dry and done.
 
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CamMark

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IMG_20230321_201518.jpg
After!

There's a little bit of haze in the low spots. It does come off with some sweeping so I'd imagine over time it will wear away. I'm curious what a scrubber with a red pad would do. May give that a shot at some point, but not a big priority.

The color had much more depth and variation than expected, which is a plus for me. I probably could have been more vigilant with the densifier and sealer application to avoid the buildup in the low spots. But its a workshop... Once I get busy with projects I'll forget all about it. Until it's time to mop and the floor cleans easy! Water already beads up pretty well the bottle says full effect after 5-7 days so it should get even better. Just what I was going for.
 
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