'Walked' away with another Walker jack...

[Burgerkong]

Gotta curb my tool spending, the projects are piling up! Another Walker 1-1/2 Ton 93632 Series G jack came into my possession, and it is many times better than the other Walker 1-1/2 Ton that I have - it needs nothing! Power unit looks unmolested, original factory pant, the tank nut looks mint. No pitting on the ram, no leaks, holds a load, the swiveling casters haven't lost any bearings and swivel fine AND are the short stem versions for cheap easy replacement! Also got the original owner's manual, which I will scan.

The damage? $50.

 

[EDGAR]

So this jack is: "many times better than the other Walker 1-1/2 Ton that I have" , and yet you are going to cannibalize it? How come? Maybe cannibalize the other?

It is, after all, a great candidate for a full restoration, with new seals and all, since you don't have to search for hard parts.

 

[Burgerkong]

So this jack is: "many times better than the other Walker 1-1/2 Ton that I have" , and yet you are going to cannibalize it? How come? Maybe cannibalize the other?

It is, after all, a great candidate for a full restoration, with new seals and all, since you don't have to search for hard parts.

Yeah that's what I meant, was a little smashed haha.

 

[Richard Cranium]

This one looks like it has all the pieces.

 

[timbitca]

Send that piece of junk to the East Coast, I'll double your investment so you don't feel too bad about buying a worthless piece of iron.

 

[Lassen Forge]

Nicely done... I am trying to find a seal kit for mine, so your scan of the manual will come in REALLY handy!!!

(Hell, can you even get seal kits for these anymore??)

 

[Hiball]

Nicely done... I am trying to find a seal kit for mine, so your scan of the manual will come in REALLY handy!!!

(Hell, can you even get seal kits for these anymore??)

Multiple places for seal kits, My Signature, Lazzars, EBay and a simple Internet search would probably yield a half dozen or so suppliers. I would definitely be Leary of any NOS kits on EBay, outside of the Cool foil sticker, the rest is junk.

 

[EDGAR]

Some other sites where seal kits can be bought. The link in red does the repair for you, by mail.


http://www.mcgivernhydraulics.com/FloorJacks/tabid/480/Default.aspx

http://www.blackhawkparts.com/lincoln-walker-kits.html

http://www.vorishydraulics.com/index.php/lincoln/service-jack

https://www.ohiohydraulic.com/lincoln_jack_drawings.htm

http://www.iserv.net/~wmogrady/lube/jack/lincoln/lincoln.html (used hard parts)

http://www.iserv.net/~wmogrady/lube/jack/lincoln/lincoln_walker_rep.html

http://www.theserviceco.net/SERVICE.html http://www.theserviceco.net/SERVICE.html

https://www.phjjacks.com/

 

[Burgerkong]

Spent some time and removed the power unit. It was caked solid with grease and fibrous stuff, resembled corn silk, so off it went to the solvent tank! After an hour of so brushing away all the grease while taking care not to get any near the ram seals, a very minty unit came out of the tank!

Flushed the fluid as well, light brown, wasn't milky plus it is still able to hold a load without dropping or leaking, so for the time being I am not going to mess around with the ucups. Cleaned up the pump and u joint, oiled with jack fluid and replaced any worn stuff with my stash of spare parts. Filled it up and bled, as well as applied antiseize to all the bolts. Thinking of spraying some LPS 3 I have laying around onto the frame as it is starting to rust on the surface.

Took the original sticker off and am redoing the graphics on the computer then sending it out to a decal place and having them print me several 'embossable aluminum foil labels'. Will post the finished file here (for free I might add).

Next is probably cleaning and greasing up all the joints and casters, but it's functioning as it sits.

 

[Hiball]

Spent some time and removed the power unit. It was caked solid with grease and fibrous stuff, resembled corn silk, so off it went to the solvent tank! After an hour of so brushing away all the grease while taking care not to get any near the ram seals, a very minty unit came out of the tank!

Flushed the fluid as well, light brown, wasn't milky plus it is still able to hold a load without dropping or leaking, so for the time being I am not going to mess around with the ucups. Cleaned up the pump and u joint, oiled with jack fluid and replaced any worn stuff with my stash of spare parts. Filled it up and bled, as well as applied antiseize to all the bolts. Thinking of spraying some LPS 3 I have laying around onto the frame as it is starting to rust on the surface.

Took the original sticker off and am redoing the graphics on the computer then sending it out to a decal place and having them print me several 'embossable aluminum foil labels'. Will post the finished file here (for free I might add).

Next is probably cleaning and greasing up all the joints and casters, but it's functioning as it sits.

I'm not a fan of partial rebuilds, it almost always comes back to bite you in the ****. Didn't you make a socket to fit the tank nut? Why not just replace the Ucup/Quad Ring? I would put that well above prettying up the outside with new graphics etc..

 

[Burgerkong]

, OK. Good thing it's easy to take out!

 

[Hiball]

, OK. Good thing it's easy to take out!

Good move.. it will give you a chance to inspect and clean the reservoir also, not to mention have 1st hand knowledge of the service records on a 30+ year old Jack.

 

[EDGAR]

Seals don't last forever; I have mentioned this before in other threads when the buyers of rather old jacks expect to use these with the original seals. That is just a time bomb waiting to go off. That some old jacks do not work when bought is a blessing in disguise as it forces the new owners to repair these.

Be aware that the shelf life of an urethane u-cup is from five to ten years, depending on the quality of the urethane and although this does not means that an u-cup won't last longer than that, at least gives an indication that the seals will eventually had to be replaced sooner than later. And u-cups are cheap, so I don't see why these should not be replaced after a number of years or cycles, just as a safety precaution, even if the jacks is still working right. As I mentioned in another thread, no one uses radiator hoses for 30 years, or even 20 years, or fan belts, or oil lines and certainly not tires as these wear out and so do the u-cups if these don't break before. I guess some people would try to use tires for 20+ years if the thread didn't wear out!

I have replaced broken urethane u-cups in Shinn Fu made jacks, like Omegas and Pro Lifts, with less than 10 years of age. And broken not because these were defective, but because these hardened and became brittle and after that, the u-cups break very easily. So no one should think of a jack working 20+ years (or even less) without any seals problems, like an eventual u-cup breakage, as this is totally unrealistic. The older the jack, the more wary the person has to be about the condition of the most important seal, the u-cup, or a piston cup, if that is the case.

 

[Burgerkong]

On it. Thought I'd pose this question again, if given a choice, leather or poly cups?

Here's the manual and unrestored tag:

S0611

S0612

S0613

S0610

S0614

S0615

 

[Hiball]

Brendan, your not going to have a option on this series, at least without a great deal of machining. It will utilize a Ucup, which are more easily attained and also more user friendly in regards to installation.

 

[Burgerkong]

Almost done the tag, will make one for Snap-On and Ajax as well as Lincoln variations of the same plate. Have to nail the font down, think I will end up tracing and making a new font derivative of Futura.

WALKER TAG2

 

[Burgerkong]

Here's the SO YA700 version.

SO YA700 Jack Plate

 

[Burgerkong]

I'm sure Hiball and others will be greatful for these pics. Picked up a 93642 rebuild kit, as it is supposed to be compatible. I guess we will see hehe.

Got my tank nut free today, holllllyyyy hell was it tight. Much tighter than my other hydraulic unit - took around a minute of impacting backwards and forwards to loosen it.

 

[Hiball]

I'm sure Hiball and others will be greatful for these pics. Picked up a 93642 rebuild kit, as it is supposed to be compatible. I guess we will see hehe.

Got my tank nut free today, holllllyyyy hell was it tight. Much tighter than my other hydraulic unit - took around a minute of impacting backwards and forwards to loosen it.

As long as your 92632 utilizes a Ucup, It looks like all the Seals are there, It has both sized Ucups and both Release seal styles, the only other thing missing is the Valve components, crush washer along with the Vee spreader.

 

[Burgerkong]

Tore it down some more. After pulling the ram and to my disappointment saw pristine seals all around. Bahumba. Replaced the quad ring and the ucup as well as the u-joint o-ring and washer. Decided to leave the pump alone as it wasn't leaking - mainly because I didn't want to take the pin out, that is stuck in there good. Maybe cobble up a press from a spare c clamp in the future.

Turns out I did have all the parts necessary to rebuild the jack using the HCRCnow (Lazzar) 93642 kit - the ucup is the correct size, same with the quad ring. Now off to find someone who can adjust the overload so it'll lift 2 tons!

Old parts on top, new on bottom. Ram is squeaky clean, just wondering if any old piece of mesh will do as a filter, since I can't seem to locate mine.

 

[Burgerkong]

As long as your 92632 utilizes a Ucup, It looks like all the Seals are there, It has both sized Ucups and both Release seal styles, the only other thing missing is the Valve components, crush washer along with the Vee spreader.

One thing I noticed with the new ucup is that the flare is a lot more prominent than the older seal I pulled out. Took a bit of time to fit it in the cylinder as I didn't want to tear the lip.

What do you mean by 'vee spreader' bu the way? The pump leather cups?

 

[Ponchoguy]

Kong:

Thanks for the PDF files of the parts list, they will come in handy.

 

[Hiball]

One thing I noticed with the new ucup is that the flare is a lot more prominent than the older seal I pulled out. Took a bit of time to fit it in the cylinder as I didn't want to tear the lip.

What do you mean by 'vee spreader' bu the way? The pump leather cups?

Did you use the smaller of the 2 Ucups? It shouldn't have been overly tight, the spreader is the piece that mates to the ID of the Vee Packing to aid in compressing the Vees.

 

[Burgerkong]

Oooooh, the metal washer. And yes, I used the smaller ucup. TBH it was cold today and I was doing it in the garage so the seal was a bit harder. Probably should have either warmed it up or done it inside the house - it wasn't tight, just that the lip wasn't very flexible.

 

[Hiball]

Oooooh, the metal washer. And yes, I used the smaller ucup. TBH it was cold today and I was doing it in the garage so the seal was a bit harder. Probably should have either warmed it up or done it inside the house - it wasn't tight, just that the lip wasn't very flexible.

It's not a metal washer, it's the part that goes between the washer and the leather Vees, normally you can get by with reusing the old one if its not completely disfigured.

 

[Burgerkong]

It's not a metal washer, it's the part that goes between the washer and the leather Vees, normally you can get by with reusing the old one if its not completely disfigured.

Ah the buna-n spreader. You know what's funny? The kit I bought from eBay is missing parts, as it should look like the following - same part numbers and seller. Sent a message, we'll see what happens.

 

[Burgerkong]

So, the eBay special was cheaper, due to less parts. An eBay special, go figure.

Regardless, got it all buttoned back together, some anaerobic sealant on the reservoir and pump seal, as well as on the tank nut and reservoir (yes, I wiped away the excess soon after the photo was taken). Just worried that the residual sealant on the inside won't cure properly. Forgot to get some brass screen, but hey, I figured if it has lived this long without any screens, I should be good to go.

Will let the sealant cure overnight (I know, it cures in the absence of air, but hey it won't hurt) before bolting it back into the frame and testing it.

 

[Burgerkong]

One more tip - if you don't have a vise (mine wasn't bolted down), bolt the hydraulic unit back into the frame and tighten/loosen the tank nut in situ. The frame is more than heavy enough to keep the unit from moving on you.

 

[Oldbear]

Here's were I hi-jack your thread Burgerkong. With the leather ram cups (u-cups) - Do you need to pre-soak them in jack oil? I'm re-building a Walker 884 and hit the same road block of far larger flare on the new cups. Please I need to get a larger socket than I current own. Time to call it quits for the night a have a beer. Looks like I have to go on a tool run in the morning...

 

[Hiball]

Here's were I hi-jack your thread Burgerkong. With the leather ram cups (u-cups) - Do you need to pre-soak them in jack oil? I'm re-building a Walker 884 and hit the same road block of far larger flare on the new cups. Please I need to get a larger socket than I current own. Time to call it quits for the night a have a beer. Looks like I have to go on a tool run in the morning...

Yes, The Leather piston seal will need 36-48 hours of soaking, then the face needs to be crimped prior to installation, Failure to follow these instructions will damage the sealing lips of the seal.

 

[a990dna]

Burgerkong...

I own the same Walker. I bought it new in the 70's. It held up real good until recent.. now it wants to slowly lower itself. Mine is in very good condition. I'm interested in the labels if you're having them made up.

If you need pics let me know.

.

 

[Burgerkong]

Burgerkong...

I own the same Walker. I bought it new in the 70's. It held up real good until recent.. now it wants to slowly lower itself. Mine is in very good condition. I'm interested in the labels if you're having them made up.

If you need pics let me know.

.

I'm good, thanks though. Actually finished up all the decal files (just need to find someplace to get them printed):

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302095

In other news, I ended up using an e clip (5/8") to replace the horrendous stock circlip. Much easier to put on, especially when you have your hands full compressing the spring.

 

[anndel]

What ever happened to Walker besides being bought out by Tenneco then McNeil Corp which also owns Lincoln Industrial? I used to watch the mechanics down the street when I was a kid and noticed their floor jacks and jack stands labeled WALKER.

 

[Indexmill]

If somebody is reproducing Walker, Lincoln or Hein Werner labels, I am in for several.

Please, do tell.

 

[Burgerkong]

What I actually want to know is the proper overload setting for the 2.5 ton version, as I find the current overload kicks in too early to lift the front of my SUV.

 

[johninct]

I think My Snap-On YA-700 is 3/4 turn out. but am unsure if that is right.

 

[Burgerkong]

I think My Snap-On YA-700 is 3/4 turn out. but am unsure if that is right.

That's what someone else said too, I'll have to PM some guys here that have rebuild a YA700 or a YA642 to be sure.

 

[Hiball]

That's what someone else said too, I'll have to PM some guys here that have rebuild a YA700 or a YA642 to be sure.

I think My Snap-On YA-700 is 3/4 turn out. but am unsure if that is right.

I hope you guys realize there is No Magic "turns out" for overloads, Even the slightest adjustment has pretty big implications. Over the years I've always checked Jacks upon dissesembly so I could compare when resetting, there normally not the same. I've always attributed this to a loss of spring tension, seat wear etc. I've been asked hundreds of times here at GJ, "How many turns out on Overload?" I've always recommended that anyone disassembling there Overload, check the current position "prior" to dissesembly, the 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 turn out is just a good starting point that should keep you safe. In all honesty, you could literally crank it down solid, and as long as you "Know" 110% your not exceeding the rated load you will be OK, I don't recommend that practice, but I'm trying to make sure you guys understand how a overload works.

 

[Burgerkong]

I will pop the welch plug and count the number of turns. The front end weighs 1360KG which is around 1.5 tons, no wonder the handle was hard to pump. Will adjust it gradually and test it out! Thanks!

 

[Burgerkong]

For what it's worth, my safety was set at 1.5 turns, so I tightened it a turn.