Walker 93632 release valves

[wxm]

Following the 93632 rebuild thread. I fabricated a spanner from a 1-1/2" impact socket. It took a while, finally got the ram out.


It turned out the old u-cup was in pieces and left the plastic plated stuck inside. It was a pain to get that out.


Now the question related to the release valves. Those two holes look all covered. Tried the punch in the center, it felt solid. Is it possible that some models have no valves behind those plates?

 

[Hiball]

I have a special little chisel I use to remove the plugs, Definitely not solid but possible the center has been beat down to the point it's touching the valve plug head. I would try working at a angle with your punch (assuming your using that starter punch in the picture) taking care not to get into the block. If your worried about damaging the inside of the sealing edge with the punch, a small drill bit should do the trick, all you need is a small hole in the freeze plug and you can easily pry it out.

 

[6PTsocket]

I am finishing a rebuild that started a long time ago. The top lip is pretty chewed up on the outside. The slot is now wider than stock. I replaced the seals and it is back together but I am not sure it is tight enough to make that dry fit seal. I hear the torque spec is pretty high. I also stripped two of the locking thread shoulder mounting bolts. The originals are 5/8 locking thread with a 3/4 shoulder. I just retapped the hole for 3/4 fine thread. Later jacks had no shoulder bolt. What is that allen head screw at the bottom of one of the mounting holes?

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[wxm]

Thanks hiball. Got both caps off. Kind of messed both up, will probably have to make two later on.

Now come to the next two challenges:
(1) one valve with a bigger nut was so tight. I was using the hand impact driver, broke the bit. It was still not moving... Shall I take a chance and move on?
(2) on the other side, the "screw" easily came out, then the spring, safety cap thinny and a small ball. I vaguely remember the other thread also mentioned a bigger ball on top of the spring, but mine doesn't have it. Shall I put one in anyway, since there is a bigger one coming from the rebuild kit?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Hiball]

Thanks hiball. Got both caps off. Kind of messed both up, will probably have to make two later on.

Now come to the next two challenges:
(1) one valve with a bigger nut was so tight. I was using the hand impact driver, broke the bit. It was still not moving... Shall I take a chance and move on?
(2) on the other side, the "screw" easily came out, then the spring, safety cap thinny and a small ball. I vaguely remember the other thread also mentioned a bigger ball on top of the spring, but mine doesn't have it. Shall I put one in anyway, since there is a bigger one coming from the rebuild kit?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

The one that came apart is the overload, Since you mentioned the Ucup being deteriorated, I would definitely pursue taking the working valve apart. If you have a fairly good sized blunt punch, position the hydraulic unit on a solid base and smack the top of the valve using the punch and a hammer. It will swell the threads and hopefully allow you to loosen it with the hand impact. The rebuild kit should have New freeze plugs, if not they are 5/8 concave and can be found at most parts houses. The working valve will consist of a large weight, Big ball, small weight and then a small ball.

 

[wxm]

Thanks again hiball. As always you knowledge and advise are deeply appreciated.

I finally got the stubborn valve screw off. Before putting everything back, can someone confirm that the order in the picture for both valves.




By the way, all parts except for the copper gasket are in good shape. Shall I reuse them or replace with those from the rebuild kit (e.g. balls)

 

[Hiball]

Looks good to me, I would definitely use the New balls, make sure when reassembling the overload that the little ball is centered in the seat prior dropping the cap/spring on top of them. I also use a dab of bearing grease inside the cap to make sure the spring stays positioned when reinstalling.

 

[wxm]

Just to report back. Put all together today. It worked very well. Lift up a corner of my car, and left there for 20 minutes, no dripping. Thanks GJ, especially hiball for the advises.

 

[wxm]

Hmmm, I might have over thought about this - how do you install the concave freeze plug. I meant which direction does it go in?

 

[Hiball]

High side Up.. then when square in the hole the edges rest on that little shelf, when you seat the plug by flattening it (middle). It creates pressure on the edges, thus sealing the hole, Don't get rough with it, If you go too far it will have the opposite effect and reduce edge pressure.

 

[wxm]

 

[wxm]

Tried the jack first time since the rebuild. The pump seems to stuck at the compressed position. I could not think of anything would do this. Anyone had the similar experience!

 

[Hiball]

Tried the jack first time since the rebuild. The pump seems to stuck at the compressed position. I could not think of anything would do this. Anyone had the similar experience!

If there is any dents in the caging, they could be getting hung up on each other. Outside of that is internal issues, overtightened Vees causing too much wall pressure, damage in the grooves from removing/installing the splined cross pin.

 

[wxm]

If there is any dents in the caging, they could be getting hung up on each other. Outside of that is internal issues, overtightened Vees causing too much wall pressure, damage in the grooves from removing/installing the splined cross pin.

Hiball, I think you nailed it. I must have over-tighten the nuts on those bees at end of the pump piston. Just took it out and loosen it a bit. It seems to work fine now. Will do more the testing later on...

Thanks again as always.