Walker Floor Jack

[kevin bailey]

My name is kevin bailey and this is my first post. I have a walker floor jack that I would like some info on if possible. The metal tag on it says J-122, range 3-3/4 tons-3000lbs,and it also has ESA on the tag. I am pretty sure that's what it says as the tag is quite worn. I have had the jack for 30 years or so , and the man I got it from had it for another 20 years at least. I need to put a kit in it if I can find one, but would appreciate any history on it as it was one fine jack. Thanks very much!

 

[dlcwent]

Kevin welcome to GJ. Check out http://hcrcnow.com

Good luck

 

[ex-x-fire]

I fixed one up awhile ago, kits are easy to find. Google "walker J-22". Their rated at 1 1/2 ton, I'd say they were under rated, it'll handle any automotive lifting.

 

[EDGAR]

Parts breakdown of the Walker 93632 which was the J-122.

http://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/walker_93632a.pdf

 

[Hiball]

My name is kevin bailey and this is my first post. I have a walker floor jack that I would like some info on if possible. The metal tag on it says J-122, range 3-3/4 tons-3000lbs,and it also has ESA on the tag. I am pretty sure that's what it says as the tag is quite worn. I have had the jack for 30 years or so , and the man I got it from had it for another 20 years at least. I need to put a kit in it if I can find one, but would appreciate any history on it as it was one fine jack. Thanks very much!

I expect 50 years old isn't out of the Realm of possibilities, The Hydraulic design has been around for a long.. long time with only subtle changes throughout the years and the core design is still used on the "Current" HW Lineup of HW93642/652 Jacks, Although Not interchangeable between frame designs. Lots of Suppliers selling kits, Ive presently "temporarily" stepped away from selling kits mainly because Ive found myself with very little free time as of late, so check with Marc's website which is linked above, Maybe google to see comparable prices, Be leary of anything on ebay in Original Walker packaging as these are OLD STOCK KITS and you don't want the headaches as some of the parts wouldn't be suitable for Re-sealing a jack. <-- Although they will have the "Rebuilt with Walker Parts" kick *** foil sticker inside. A couple words of advice, Tear down and inspect your jack prior to buying a kit, Anything that old can and does have problems on occasion and it might need some machining, Very Common... especially if a jack sits dry for extended periods of time. Secondly.. It will have the Spanner tank nut, It will require some force to remove and you will need to make a special tool to fit the grooves, Don't beat on it with a Hammer, Pipe wrench = NO good, you will only ruin the part. Here is a tutorial where a Member here detailed his journey with a 93632 which is very similar to your model and blows those exploded view diagrams out of the water. Also.. before I forget, If your jack has the Rear wing style casters (should have), And the caster assembly is bad... They are pricey. The Wheels are replaceable but the Caster assembly if required takes a specialty stem type and are $60+ for each side last time I looked. I know in the past ive rebuilt the Assembly, which requires some Stake removal, careful disassembly of the lower/upper races and bearing replacement and have good luck, but its a Job.

Hope all this information helps... Welcome to GJ.

 

[svocharlie]

Hiball,
If you were to look for the special caster assembly with the long stem and "c" clip, where would you look to find it? I know they are expensive, but I have 2 Walker jacks needing help. One has a caster assembly that is totally broken, the other jack has two "sagging" caster assemblies. I have a J-122 and an early model 93632.
Thanks

 

[Hiball]

Hiball,
If you were to look for the special caster assembly with the long stem and "c" clip, where would you look to find it? I know they are expensive, but I have 2 Walker jacks needing help. One has a caster assembly that is totally broken, the other jack has two "sagging" caster assemblies. I have a J-122 and an early model 93632.
Thanks

It's been so long since I ordered any of that style I would have to call and check prices, but the caster assembly part is Walker 226119 off the top of my head, ill double check that when I get home. You might try googling that part number for pricing etc..

Edit.. I managed to blow the PDF part number up on my phone and it appears correct, for the short stubby stem that fits inside the sleeve and is held in place with a set screw. I believe there was some series of models that utilized the LONG stem that was held in place by the C-clip. Ill snag a picture later this afternoon.

 

[Jeeper]

Need to bring this thread up from the past. I have a Walker 93632 that I just acquired. Starting to take stock of what the jack is going to need. Ordered myself a rebuild kit and noticed the casters, at least one anyway, didn't spin very well.

Anyway, took it off. It's the long stem variation that uses a c-clip to retain it in the double wing. Some of the ball bearings are falling out. My question (probably most likely to Hiball) is there a way to rebuild the bearing in this or am I stuck sourcing new caster(s)? From this thread, Hiball mentions that they can be redone but it takes some work. Hoping he can elaborate.

I will post a few pics so you know what I am dealing with.

 

[Jeeper]

A pic of the situation.

 

[Hiball]

Jeeper if the upper and lower races are good, Not bent up etc.. You can clean them up, install new ball bearings and should be good to go. Where all the ball bearings secured inside the race when you removed the caster? Once a couple escape, they start disappearing and generally bend the upper race under use.

 

[Hiball]

I forgot to add.. The delicate part of restoration getting to the point of removing the races. Since you have the wheel off already, if you look inside you will see the bottom of the stem, you will see some staking that secures the races the caster base, remove enough to remove the pin so you can fully disassemble, try not to go overboard as you will need that material to reseat or will need to use other means.

 

[Jeeper]

Thanks for chiming in Hiball. When you refer to the part that is staked are you talking about the star area in the center of the pic below?

 

[Hiball]

Thanks for chiming in Hiball. When you refer to the part that is staked are you talking about the star area in the center of the pic below?

That is correct.. In talking with other members Ive seen a few variations to secure everything back after dissasembley, a few have drilled the stem and tapped the hole and threaded a bolt/washer. I've actually had a few members just reinstall the balls and using a hammer bend the races so none of the balls can escape, thus bypassing the need to dissasemble entirely. It really depends on how far you want to take it. Another option to take up any slack between the upper race and the snap ring is too simply shim under the snap ring as necessary.

 

[Jeeper]

Thanks again for the info Hiball. I can actually fit the ball bearings in and out of the races depending if I angle the races correctly. A little too much slop in it so may have to use the shim approach later. I think I will cut or remove the stake and go with the drill/tap/bolt/washer approach that way I can completely disassemble and clean everything. The casters have a sort of a channel for the ball bearings on half of the 360* rotation. Not sure what that is all about.

Glad that there is a shot at rebuilding the casters. My $30 jack would get expensive otherwise given I already have a rebuild kit on the way.

 

[Jeeper]

Also a follow-up question. Any ideas on best ways to remove the stake without causing too much damage?

Drill? Cut-off wheel?

 

[Hiball]

Also a follow-up question. Any ideas on best ways to remove the stake without causing too much damage?

Drill? Cut-off wheel?

I used a little die grinder to gently buzz the edges, you can see some of the cuts in the picture above.

 

[Jeeper]

Got one of the old casters disassembled. Used a carbide burr in a die grinder and ground down the star until I saw the line of the inner shaft.




Then popped the end with a hit with the ball end of a ball pein hammer to separate it out.



Thinking I will grind the end of the shaft flat since it's ridged from grinding. Then drill the center and tap for a 1/4" grade 8 bolt. Then use a 1/2 grade 8 washer ground down to fit inside the bottom race. It will fit over the shaft like the previous one. Then another 1/4" grade 8 washer under the bolt. Of course with new ball bearings loaded.

Think that will work?

 

[Hiball]

Think that will work?

Sounds good to me.. Might check you stack height with the washers/bolt head to make sure there is clearance for the wheel after assembly.

 

[Jeeper]

Sounds good to me.. Might check you stack height with the washers/bolt head to make sure there is clearance for the wheel after assembly.

Thanks for the tips.

Out of curiosity, can these type of casters be purchased? Any idea on the price?

 

[Hiball]

Thanks for the tips.

Out of curiosity, can these type of casters be purchased? Any idea on the price?

Last I checked they where roughly $60-70 a side, which is why I've fielded 5 million questions on how to rebuild these. Keep documenting your progress and end result, so I can link people to this thread.

 

[Jeeper]

Last I checked they where roughly $60-70 a side, which is why I've fielded 5 million questions on how to rebuild these. Keep documenting your progress and end result, so I can link people to this thread.

I suspected this since I have searched GJ up and down for more pictures on the caster rebuild. I will keep taking pictures and uploading them.

 

[Jeeper]

Ok. Continuing the rebuild of a caster. Now that it is disassembled, I pulled the bench grinder out. I ground the end of the shaft flat since it had a lot of ridges from the burr. I did not want to grind very much off, just enough to flatten it.

I also ground 2, 1/2" grade 8 washers to match the diameter of the washer that was underneath the star stake. Here is a pic of them along with drilling the first pilot hole in the shaft end.

In the pic there is the old washer with the grind marks, 2 that were ground to match the old washer and a new one washer for reference.

Yea, yea, I know it's not perfectly centered. The shaft is wrapped in a piece of split heater hose so the vice doesn't leave marks.

 

[Jeeper]

Soaked the parts in vinegar to remove the rust.

Drilled the hole in the end of the shaft. Did a pilot hole the 13/64" bit before running a 1/4" coarse tap. The bolt that I am using was a grade 8, 1/4" by 1". I cut the bolt down to somewhere between 1/2" and 3/4" so I didn't have to drill too deep in the shaft. Didn't want to weaken it too much if that is possible.

Here are the parts laid out in order with the exception of the ball bearings.

 

[Jeeper]

Put the upper race on the shaft along with the axle housing bracket on. Then loaded 21, 1/4" ball bearings. G25 rated. When I loaded them, half or so go in between the upper race and the "lip" on the axle housing bracket. You can see on the photo.

Now the lower race goes on.

Now the newly ground down washer, a 1/4" grade 8 washer and the modified 1/4" bolt are installed and hold everything together.

 

[Jeeper]

Installed the wheel and axle. Spins nice and smooth. Like butter.

On the floor jack. Way, way nicer!

Very happy with how it turned out. I still need to rebuild the hydraulic unit so it hasn't been tested under load. I am working on rebuilding the other caster. It's not nearly as bad but still rusty so it's getting an overhaul anyway. I will also pull the first caster apart again and grease it before it goes on. The ball bearings have a little more click than I'd like so some grease should quiet them down.

Also a reminder. This is what I did. It is untested and rebuild at your own risk.

Also never go under a vehicle with out it properly being supported by jack stands!