I was recently given a vintage jack. My research has me thinking it is a walker jack. I have sent photos to a repair shop and this is where my info has come from as well as searching the web. I know there are repair kits and repair shops that can restore the pump. Can anyone tell me if the jack is worth the repair? Or price of the kit to repair? I would like to find a vintage high quality floor jack at least 2 ton, thanks in advance. PS How much were these jacks new? Will try to post some pics later.
Walker floor jack
- Thread starter vmaxman61
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paulsomlo
Well-known member
From Hiball's signature:
Need a Seal Kit? Contact Hydraulic Parts Supply at 620-594-2247
If you're careful, you might be able to use a pipe wrench on that tank nut. Those are good jacks, worth saving, especially if you do the rebuild yourself. But if you're going to buy a kit, first open up the hydraulics and make sure there aren't any issues that would preclude a rebuild.
paulsomlo
Well-known member
Corrosion on the cylinder walls would be problematic. If there's corrosion on the cylinder walls, there's typically corrosion on the rod as well, although that's not as big a problem and can usually be cleaned up.
If you know someone with a mill, I suppose a new pair of slots could be cut on the tank nut, 90 degrees from the original ones. If you opt for a pipe wrench to remove the nut, just be sure that you don't chew up the tank to nut interface, as that's what seals the reservoir and keeps the fluid in. If you go that route, you'll want a good sized pipe wrench, three to four foot.
ajchien
Well-known member
I agree, it looks like a walker (it has the Walker / Lincoln / new hein werner design, and the Walker blue color). Possibly a 93630/93632 1.5ton??? or a 93642 2ton??? The spanner tank nut is beat up, but I don’t think that is a big deal when it comes to functionality. Might make it hard to take off the “proper” way, but a pipe wrench is probably the way to go to get it off. I agree a lot with what paulsomlo has said.
Here’s a YouTube video of a guy rebuilding an older snap on jack. It should be very similar since the old snap on Jack is a rebranded Walker.
I would consider checking out hcrcnow.com as a resource also.
Here’s a YouTube video of a guy rebuilding an older snap on jack. It should be very similar since the old snap on Jack is a rebranded Walker.
I would consider checking out hcrcnow.com as a resource also.
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ajchien
Well-known member
Sorry to sidetrack your thread some ... but does anyone know when walker / Lincoln changed from the spanner nut to the hex nut for the main tank nut?
paulsomlo
Well-known member
Many - a search of "walker floor jack rebuild" or "lincoln floor jack rebuild" here on GJ will yield hours (maybe days) of reading material. You're in good hands here - GJ is probably the single best repository of info regarding repair of floor jacks on the internet. So, tear into it - here's a thread to get you started: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80165
paulsomlo
Well-known member
Post #5 - but do yourself a favor and tear into the hydraulics first.
ajchien
Well-known member
paulsomlo
Well-known member
I'm not completely familiar with that jack - the o ring that's on the release valve; is that shown in it's original position? And were there any other sealing elements on the release that are not shown?
Regarding the groove worn in the release - is he referring to the cone shaped piece that's not shown in your picture?
At any rate, any of those things can be dealt with - I've even filled pits and corrosion with JB Weld. And until you get it together, you don't even know if there's a problem, might be OK. The hydraulic shop didn't want the liability of having you come back with leaks, but it may be worth it to tear into yourself.
You never said what was wrong with it in the first place.
Regarding the groove worn in the release - is he referring to the cone shaped piece that's not shown in your picture?
At any rate, any of those things can be dealt with - I've even filled pits and corrosion with JB Weld. And until you get it together, you don't even know if there's a problem, might be OK. The hydraulic shop didn't want the liability of having you come back with leaks, but it may be worth it to tear into yourself.
You never said what was wrong with it in the first place.
paulsomlo
Well-known member
How big of a pipe wrench? You'll need at least a three footer, four would be better. And even then, you may still need to lash the jack handle to it for more leverage. The reservoir seals at both ends with metal to metal contact and the tank nut is torqued somewhere between 300 and 600 foot pounds.
As I said above, be careful not to chew up the area where the tank nut actually touches the reservoir - once the integrity of those mating surfaces has been compromised, you're left with a paper weight.
As I said above, be careful not to chew up the area where the tank nut actually touches the reservoir - once the integrity of those mating surfaces has been compromised, you're left with a paper weight.
ajchien
Well-known member
I’m a bit confused. What did you have done at the hydraulic repair business? You could ask them to assist you in loosening the tank nut.
Is the pitting and groove what I see on the stem of that universal assembly? I presume that O-Ring is supposed to diminish/ eliminate the potential leak in along the stem. The actual release valve tip is a cone/“turnip” shaped metal piece that should be at the end of the universal assembly. Looks like this: https://www.blackhawkparts.com/product1209.html
You might head over to hcrcnow.com and search through their “Jack drawings” section. They have a pretty lengthy list of different walker jack part schematics that should help you out a lot.
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I did not have any work done at the hydraulic business, The guy was very nice and stated for 80 dollars I can get a new one. I stated I wanted a good quality USA made jack and am considering having it fixed. He stated his concern over the groove in the release valve shaft, I am supplying another pic of this poor looking weld and wanted your opinions as to it being dependable. thanks
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paulsomlo
Well-known member
That's the arm that pivots the saddle, to keep it level as you raise the jack. Wondering if it was welded to retain the pin or welded because the hole in the arm was compromised? If to retain the pin, it's sloppy, but not a safety concern. At any rate, there's another arm on the other side of the saddle - what's it look like?
ajchien
Well-known member
Some have referred to that arm as the “leveling bar”. It will usually connect to the “saddle base” by a “linkage axle/linkage pin”. I have one jack that the saddle base and the linkage axle/pin are one solid piece. The other jacks I have have the linkage axle/pin retained by 1) a weld or 2) snap rings.
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