Walker Turner - Need Some Help

[Rick_Br]

So I started this project - WT 20" drill press rebuild. Here's the pile of parts I am starting with



Right now I'm struggling with the motor mounting plate - I want to get the studs out. Its kind of an unusual arrangement - there are locking set screws in each stud but not in the place where you would expect them.





I got the set screws out but I'm not sure how the studs were assembled - I have seen this arrangement before on a WT but can't remember how the studs came out. They could be a press fit, corroded slip fit or threaded. I'm guessing not a press fit - because why the set screw? So either a slip fit or threaded. I also sus[pect the set screw was drilled and tapped with the stud in place.

Anyone ever see this arrangement - or more importantly disassembled one? I know there will be at least one person who will say just leave it alone - but that's not me.
Thanks
Rick

 

[Steve from Socal]

Threaded or taper would be the question, either way try rotating the stud. The taper will break free or the stud will start to advance in the bore.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Mark position of the studs before removal to help assembly.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I rebuild and restore equipment regularly As a retirement hobby. The saying is to make sure the view is worth the climb.
An obsession with taking some things apart to make them “better” does not always end well.
With that said, my vote is that the pins are likely a light press fit, and the setscrew acts as insurance for retainment.

 

[isb cornbinder]

So I started this project - WT 20" drill press rebuild. Here's the pile of parts I am starting with



Right now I'm struggling with the motor mounting plate - I want to get the studs out. Its kind of an unusual arrangement - there are locking set screws in each stud but not in the place where you would expect them.





I got the set screws out but I'm not sure how the studs were assembled - I have seen this arrangement before on a WT but can't remember how the studs came out. They could be a press fit, corroded slip fit or threaded. I'm guessing not a press fit - because why the set screw? So either a slip fit or threaded. I also sus[pect the set screw was drilled and tapped with the stud in place.

-" but that's not me". Why ask for help if you have no intention of acting on it?

This is a common grub (set) screw use. I strongly suggest that you stop now. It is not necessary to remove these screws. What do you hope to accomplish after the screws are out?
I Googled for the information you will need. There are several American business that make reproduction parts and operator manuals. Try Keith Rucker's vintagemachinery.org
You may be at risk of making your project not fixable without a machine shop intervention.
"but that's not me". So, why ask for help?

 

[Rick_Br]

This is a common grub (set) screw use. I strongly suggest that you stop now. It is not necessary to remove these screws. What do you hope to accomplish after the screws are out?
I Googled for the information you will need. There are several American business that make reproduction parts and operator manuals. Try Keith Rucker's vintagemachinery.org
You may be at risk of making your project not fixable without a machine shop intervention.
"but that's not me". So, why ask for help?

I'm lost with your response. I understand the concept of clean it up with the studs in place. I'm not sure what you are suggesting with this "I Googled for the information you will need. There are several American business that make reproduction parts and operator manuals. Try Keith Rucker's vintagemachinery.org
You may be at risk of making your project not fixable without a machine shop intervention."

So why ask for help - because I am looking for someone who has experience with taking this part - whether you think I should or not.

Rick

 

[Rick_Br]

Threaded or taper would be the question, either way try rotating the stud. The taper will break free or the stud will start to advance in the bore.

I hadn't thought of taper - I guess that is a possibility. I have tried putting the stud in a vice and turning the mounting plate - no luck - but I didn't push it too far.

Rick

 

[OccupantRJ]

I was out in the shop minutes ago so I took a couple pics for you. My WT came out of a factory and was given to me because the upper spindle bearing went out. When I got into it at the time the bearing was obsolete. The inner diameter was easy, but the outer was less than a readily available bearing at that time. I machined a correct size adapter ring to fit the difference between a newer bearing and the housing diameter, and put her to work. My motor mount seems to be shop built, likely by someone in that factory. The motor mount studs are welded onto a salvaged piece of plate, and has a swing mount for the motor which can be adjusted by the knob on the side.

 

[Steve from Socal]

You can also use some heat to release the tension on the stud, a torch or heat gun around the casting.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Here. I found this on vintage machinery.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/1162.pdf

 

[isb cornbinder]

This is a common grub (set) screw use. I strongly suggest that you stop now. It is not necessary to remove these screws. What do you hope to accomplish after the screws are out?
I Googled for the information you will need. There are several American business that make reproduction parts and operator manuals. Try Keith Rucker's vintagemachinery.org
You may be at risk of making your project not fixable without a machine shop intervention.
"but that's not me". So, why ask for help?

It was a mistake to mention parts. Parts goes with operator's manual, and I included parts and I should have not. I will proof read next time. I am out. It appears that I have nothing to add.

 

[Rick_Br]

Here. I found this on vintage machinery.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/1162.pdf

Thanks RJ - I have seen that but it doesn't seem to give much detail on how the stud os assembled. That picture appears that the stud has a slot - mine does not. I should mention that I took a look at Ebay and there are least three mounts that appear the same as mine.

 

[Rick_Br]

You can also use some heat to release the tension on the stud, a torch or heat gun around the casting.

Heat has been on mind - I've been spraying it with PB blaster.
Rick

 

[Rick_Br]

RJ - that is certainly a different motor mount than I have ever seen. I have asked some question about dating - my head badge has no model/serial field but the cast iron guard does. I have put that aside for now.
Rick

 

[Whitworth]

If the studs have not (or will not) move with light taps from a brass hammer, then I would work around them.
Nothing is ever an interference fit (press fit) into gray cast iron, it is brittle and will break.
Therefore the studs are stuck in place from rust, crud and time.
If you do try heat you probably can't get it hot fast enough without oxy-acetylene. (Both parts heat up at the same rate,)
In that case you can try chilling the stud after heating with liquid propane to break the bond. You get liquid propane from compressed air duster can held upside down. BTW, propane is flammable, so caution is advised.

 

[whateg01]

I'll have a look at my 1100 later. Or, try to remember to. I don't remember if I took mine apart that far, but I know I at least considered it because the motor I used wasn't going to mate to the mounting bracket nicely.

Btw, I wish I could scan that belt cover. I don't really want one but it would be cool to have it. I say the same thing about the missing covers on my 10ee.

 

[tombell572]

If you look carefully at the drawing in Occupant's posting, you will see that the "slots" in the studs represent one half of the threaded hole for the set screw, the other half being in the cast iron motor mounting plate. The set screw is shown to the right of the motor mount plate as item "SS". I would guess a light press fit held in place now by the years of dirt and moisture. FWIW, having been there, I'd advise also to leave it alone for all the reasons stated above.

Tom B.

 

[Rick_Br]

That's interesting Tom - I can see what you are saying. I still think that the hole was drilled and tapped after assembly - can't imagine a manufacturing process that could drill and tap "half" holes in mating parts. If that is actually the set screw hole shown in the parts list then it seems they would have indicated threads on the stud as well if it were threaded into the casting. Long way of saying I agree probably a light press fit.

Rick

 

[Rick_Br]

I have been soaking these studs with PB Blaster while the discussion/thought process was going on. Today I decided that all the evidence pointed towards a light press fit of the studs in the motor mounting plate so I took a deep breath, got a hammer and punch and went after them - SUCCESS



One problem solved and probably a hundred to go

Rick

 

[isb cornbinder]

Did you mark at least one stud for reassembly? It is important to get the threads lined up.

 

[tombell572]

The holes would have been made after assembly as you note. The exploded drawing shows the machine in its completed state. If you were to dis-assemble it, that's what you would see.

Tom B.