Walkout Basement Cover Door

[bugnut]

All our home has a walkout basement. At the bottom there is a landing which contains a drain which is connected to the perimeter drain around the home. The leaves and debris fill the stairwell and it becomes moss covered between uses. I have done some searching and found a design for a style I would prefer as show in the image. I saw a similar build on TOH. Anyone done one in this style. Anything I should be aware of or asking the fabricator. I'm thinking I would like to have a stainless steel cap with a male protrusion along the top of the block. Then a lift top that has a female slot that straddles the male. Thinking that should keep most anything out. Images below what am I missing...... Thanks

 

[larry4406]

Interesting project.

Got nothing except I would install a hand rail.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I would suggest a good way to secure so during a wind storm, it doesn't wind underneath, an uplift completely destroying it.

 

[larry4406]

I would suggest a good way to secure so during a wind storm, it doesn't wind underneath, an uplift completely destroying it.

I think this is a very smart observant concern.

The Bilco basement bulkhead doors Dan referenced look stout - storm shelter stout even.

We have stupid issues at the day job where the wind blows around a house and similar to an airfoil, one side is momentarily low pressure. When this happens, all the HVAC vent wall cap flappers on that side open as house pressure is momentarily higher. Then the wind abruptly changes, flapper slams closed, and this violently repeats as the wind goes nuts. Customers are wigged out with the repetitive flapper noise and are convinced there is a house defect and cannot believe that the same thing that makes airplanes fly could possibly be the cause of the flapper noise. We were just taken to arbitration over this and customer lost.

Wonder if the Bilco doors or others have air vents to lessen the pressure gradient and uplift possibility?

 

[NUTTSGT]

I would have suggested a Bilco unit but it might get pricey for the unit if it's 10-12' long.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I think you are on the right track. At the top of the steps, it might be good to have the approach area slightly lower than the top step/landing and have the vertical door part go below that level down to the level of the approach area and make sure that area is properly drained.

 

[Carchie]

That design looks great, but don't underestimate how heavy a solid stainless steel lift-top door is going to be, especially from a dead lift position at the top of the stairs. You are definitely going to want to plan for a heavy-duty pair of gas struts or a counterweight system so you don't throw your back out every time you need to clear out the drain.

 

[bugnut]

Got nothing except I would install a hand rail.

@larry4406 That sir is a great suggestion, didn't even think about a handrail!

I would suggest a good way to secure so during a wind storm, it doesn't wind underneath, an uplift completely destroying it.

Eric, Liking that thought , I have been mentally sketching this over and over I was thinking of a garage door style latch that would rotate and pin both side but don't know how to mechanize that from inside. More head scratching....

it might be good to have the approach area slightly lower than the top step/landing

Jeff, I fully agree needs to be pitch on it as that area gets all the weather it is on the NW corner of the house!

heavy a solid stainless steel lift

@Carchie I am open to other materials, and powder coated aluminum would probably be lighter.

More head scratching, thanks

 

[NUTTSGT]

Not sure how far you want to go, can afford or what it would look like at your place. . . . But....

Imagine a narrow shed, about 5-6' wide and 10-12' long with a walk in door on one end and no floor. Sit this shed over the basement entry way...problem solved but one step farther. Over the half closest to the house where you can walk in, put a floor and a door (at ground level) facing away from the street....of course add a interior wall at the edge of the floor so you don't fall down in the stairs.

You have now built yourself a basement entry way and mini shed.

 

[larry4406]

Also, your landing at the top of the stair is on grade.

I would pour a new landing on top of the old to create one more matching riser and tread. Then you step down from the landing to grade. Ensure the grade pitches away from this added raised landing.

This acts as a dam to stop surface water and debris from flowing down your stairs. Easy to flood a basement if this is omitted.

Lastly, you have quite the fall hazard there. We install horizontal steel rails drilled and epoxied into the walls for fall protection. The stair shed concept that @NUTTSGT suggested would provide this.

 

[moab11]

An old house of my parents had the same thing and they did exactly as Nuttsgt suggested and put an enclosure on top, with plenty of windows so it was nice and bright. Solved all the water(and snow) issues in the stairwell, while keeping access simple from ground level as well as from the basement.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

If keeping the drain from clogging fixes your problem, I highly suggest this "Drain Defender" gizmo.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z3XS5TX?tag=atomicindus08-20

My mom's house had a single 4" drain for a large patio that would clog with leaves after every storm, resulting in the (not very level) patio flooding. I put one of those over the drain and it never clogged again.

 

[dukes909]

I have a similar walk out and had same issue with drain clogging. Water would go over the door sill into basement. I did the poor man's version of @HoosierBuddy Drain thing but used a rain gutter downspout strainer like this. Installed 20 years ago and never had a clog or overflow into basement again. It's adjustable to fit different diameters. Just remove it every so often and tap on the ground to shake debris loose. $5, tops.

Dukester

 

[gleman]

I've been on a spree of putting handrails and grab bars where they should have been these last few years.

It looks like it wouldn't be a problem going up the stairs but descending without a handrail at the right level could cause problems.



I'm not sure if your Storm door lid would work with that or maybe offset the upper rail and have a second rail below grade.

Maybe there's a rollout storm screen type thing.



Something like that but horizontal.

I think you'd have to move your light too.

I installed a man-door into my barn and the county wanted it illuminated yours might be the same way.

 

[mm08822]

I suggest you send the dimensions to bilco and at least get a price.

Also agree with adding at least one step or even two. The second being flush with the wall top. First one to avoid the bad ground pitch. Second one makes a flat plane to attach the cover of choice.

Railing could be as simple as 1" galvanized pipe with 2 elbows nippled into deck flanges.

 

[bluedog225]

Sheet of heavy corrugated tin. Rocks.

 

[Overboost44]

I would be concerned with mold, moss and moisture with a lid like that. We had a basement stairs just like that when I was growing up. It was always damp and uninviting. I would just put that metal cage over the drain.

 

[mm08822]

I would be concerned with mold, moss and moisture with a lid like that. We had a basement stairs just like that when I was growing up. It was always damp and uninviting. I would just put that metal cage over the drain.

I have a Bilco door for 30 yrs. Precast steps, always dry except when very high water table. I wish installer had sealed it better. No mold, just the occasional leaves.

I'm thinking the OP's isn't looking too bad as it is open to all sorts of blowing debris right now.

 

[mm08822]

From Bilco webpage (plastic version):



From catalog (steel version):

 

[finn]

We put in a Bilco door when we built our then cottage in 1990. Were in snow country and wanted access to the basement for skis, building material (I finished the build over a period of years), laundry equipment, etc.

There are drain tiles below the floor, but it’s still damp in the stairwell. In fact I really should replace one of the stringers and a couple of top steps.

The Bilco doors serve their purpose, but if I had a do over I would build a fully enclosed “porch / entrance with a regular door at the top of the stairs and a couple of windows instead of the Bilco doors.

We end up with several feet of snow on top of the Bilco, and they aren’t exactly sealed, as varmints ( mice or chipmunks) stash acorns beneath the stairs, and it’s a ***** to get them out.

Bottom line, a dedicated full height structure with a regular steel man door is a superior solution. Problem is that approach leads to mission creep, as it might be nice to add enough space for the portable generator or yard tool storage.

For now I’ll keep the Bilco doors.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Sheet of heavy corrugated tin. Rocks.

Simple, yet elegant!

 

[gleman]

We put in a Bilco door when we built our then cottage in 1990. Were in snow country and wanted access to the basement for skis, building material (I finished the build over a period of years), laundry equipment, etc.

There are drain tiles below the floor, but it’s still damp in the stairwell. In fact I really should replace one of the stringers and a couple of top steps.

The Bilco doors serve their purpose, but if I had a do over I would build a fully enclosed “porch / entrance with a regular door at the top of the stairs and a couple of windows instead of the Bilco doors.

We end up with several feet of snow on top of the Bilco, and they aren’t exactly sealed, as varmints ( mice or chipmunks) stash acorns beneath the stairs, and it’s a ***** to get them out.

Bottom line, a dedicated full height structure with a regular steel man door is a superior solution. Problem is that approach leads to mission creep, as it might be nice to add enough space for the portable generator or yard tool storage.

For now I’ll keep the Bilco doors.

I got rid of the boat garage at the Gaylord house and turned it into an en suite and ended up with a damp walkout and patio as a bonus.

26 years later I'm still not sure if that was the right move.

 

[nadogail]

Bicol has set a very high standard for acces doors.
I don’t have any experience with them, but have been seeing their advertisement for probably 70 years.

 

[JohnX14]

Bottom line, a dedicated full height structure with a regular steel man door is a superior solution.

This gets my vote

 

[bugnut]

All, many great ideas.

@NUTTSGT, I like the idea if I envisioned it correctly. Thinking It would be fashioned after @Bob Heine wedding chapel/storage area.

@larry4406 well we got scope creep now. The idea of a landing at the top to bring above grade solves many issues, as it could now provide a largely flat surface for mounting everything. And I never thought of the fall hazard, so railing or cover is now an even better idea.

Appreciate the drain covers, guys.

Lastly my Bilco guy came out about 10 or so years ago. Could not work with what existed, the solution proposed was tear it all out and replace with their prefab unit. Adding to that was he could not appease the bursars "demand" no critters.

I will revisit Bilco.

Thanks, Joel

 

[NUTTSGT]

Keep us updated with the direction you head.

I might also add, instead of a simple wall at stairs, you could do a "stepped wall" to gain more storage like done in many houses above stairways in closests.. Just base all of that off your head height from below.

 

[jblnut]

The suggested shed is the best idea yet. That hands gets my vote. You can still put a cover over it if you’d like and a counterweight system (if needed) would be hidden in the shed.

Need me to find a shed and bring it along in a few days

 

[Uncle murph]

All our home has a walkout basement. At the bottom there is a landing which contains a drain which is connected to the perimeter drain around the home. The leaves and debris fill the stairwell and it becomes moss covered between uses. I have done some searching and found a design for a style I would prefer as show in the image. I saw a similar build on TOH. Anyone done one in this style. Anything I should be aware of or asking the fabricator. I'm thinking I would like to have a stainless steel cap with a male protrusion along the top of the block. Then a lift top that has a female slot that straddles the male. Thinking that should keep most anything out. Images below what am I missing...... Thanks

Around these parts walkout means threshold at grade,that said,don’t install anything that could trap someone in the event of a fire.