Wall board

[safetyfast]

I'm hopeful I can build a garage soon. Price IS an object. I was thinking of doing the wallboard myself to save $. I've noticed that I can purchase tileboard for about $10 a sheet. I wondered if this would be better than sheetrock since It would be quicker to install, since I wouldn't have to do tape and mud. It should make a clean looking interior that is easy to clean.

 

[MyMopar]

TIleboard would be an EASY way out, as you can buy strips to connect panels together for a cleaner look. However, I don't think it would be a CHEAPER way out.

Tile board 4x8 = $10
Sheetrock 4x8 = $4 ish

If you need 18 sheets that would be $180 for tile board or $72 for sheetrock. Granted you will have more work involved in sheetrock and some added expense (tape $5 compound $20) but in the end you will still be cheaper costs wise. Labor wise is different.

 

[camarojoe]

4x8 drywall is over 7.00 per sheet where I live... still less expensive, but lots of time and labor to finish it properly... I have no experience with the tileboard you're talking about, but would guess you could get into some work with it too... I would think it would come down to personal preference over cost.

 

[mleichtle]

also, cutting all the holes for outlets can be a pain with panaling compared to drywall, and fixing any oopses, forget it.

 

[ChucksCrib]

Sheetrock 4x8 = $4 ish

Holy ****...............where do you live. We're at about twice that much for 1/2" rock in Connecticut

 

[428]

I used White beaded style Tileboard in my pool house. Absolute PITA to install. But I did have a lot of corners, doors, switches and such. Messy and stinky when you cut it. The connecting strips were very difficult to use so I just glued and nailed it to the studs and caulked the seams. Looks fine for where it is but you'll get some bowing between studs giving a slight wavy look. Especially on a long wall.

I went with sheetrock in the garage. Install time was about the same for 1000 sq ft sheetrocked garage as the 250 sq ft Tileboarded pool house.
I think the tileboard would look ok but I'd rather have it over something than just on the studs. The stuff is so thin it WILL bow out between studs.

Also if you go over an 8' ceiling you'll have to fill it in somehow. My poolhouse has 9' ceilings so I used a 1 x 12 and baseboard moulding and painted it white. My poolhouse is screened only so it must take the weather, temp and humidity changes. So far it's held up pretty good for 5 years.
My 2 cents.

 

[caffeine]

i am paying about 9 bucks for 1/2 inch.

mudding and sanding *****. really..it does....it kinda looks like fun...but its the exact opposite. not even remotely amusing.

and if all your wood isnt straight (like its 50 years old!) forget aboout it....i just got finished withmine and almost gave up.....i spent about a week straight fter work, on a 13x20 garage and you can still pretty much see every seem.

 

[trovato]

The 1/8 white plain tileboard I just used had a sticker on the back that said it shouldn't be installed without something underneath, like sheetrock.

 

[White Chocolate]

filling joints and sanding drywall isn't THAT bad. its mindless and if you take your time it can turn out really well. after a stressful day at work, i kinda like coming home and working on the drywall and not thinking about anything. just cover your floor before you sand because the dust is hard to get up if it gets ground in unless you use a wet towel.

 

[logical]

Another option would be to just put thin drywall (3/8) up, dond bother filling or taping and glue the tileboard to it. I did some of my basement this way. I had 24" OC studs, put up 5/8 drywall part way down from ceiling and mudded/finished, put the 3/8 below it bare and glued paneling on the 3/8 (surfaces are almost flush with 3/16 panel thickness). Covered the joint with chair rail molding.

i like the tile board idea but maybe only part way up and definately with at least some thin drywall behind it.

 

[BOSS351C]

For the drywall I put in my shop I just ran a bead of painters caulk down the joint, then smoothed it with a putty knife. Then painted everything. I only cared about sealing the joint so it wouldn't hold dust as I will be painting cars in the shop. No sanding, VERY quick, and it looks just fine.

 

[MyMopar]

I'm sorry guys in my post I did say $4 ish for the drywall and I am wrong. Simple type, I ment $8 ish and didn't read my post, my bad.
I will be doing the drywall in my garage and I was a bit concerned about taping and mudding, but there are quite a few sites on line that go over the proper way to do it and it appears easy enough, just time consuming.
Once the cabinets are up and the equipment is in, people really won't notice slight imperfections in the walls anyway.

 

[428]

I was told recently by a drywaller and painter that if you're going to have extreme temperature swings inside that a good caulk will do better than tape joints. It can expand and contract with the drywall. No give in a tape joint.

 

[trovato]

I was told recently by a drywaller and painter that if you're going to have extreme temperature swings inside that a good caulk will do better than tape joints. It can expand and contract with the drywall. No give in a tape joint.

When doing sheetrock in a garage attached to a house, I've always been told that 5/8 firecode sheetrock is required, and that it must be taped. I wouldn't expect caulked joints to meet this requirement. Does anyone know different?

 

[428]

If attached to the house a firedoor (metal) is required here, not sure about the rock. Built my house with attached in '93, don't remember that coming up. Just the door.
I would assume only the wall that is the house need be fire coded. If that's the case that wall will get residual heat from inside and taped joints shouldn't be a problem. Exterior walls and ceiling should be whatever you want to use and those are the ones I'd worry about.

But check your local codes.

Permits? We don't need no stinkin permit.

 

[trovato]

I would assume only the wall that is the house need be fire coded.

Where I live, it used to be that way, but no more. The whole garage needs it. The idea is to provide a certain amount of time of protection. If the fire attacks the framing on the non-house side, before you know it, there won't be anything for the house side sheetrock to protect.

 

[REFLEXX]

In the PRC (people's republic of California) I need to do a fire door ON A DETACHED GARAGE???

these people are clueless.

I'm doing 5/8" drywall and r30/r19 insulation. In Cali temp is not that much of an issue, I'm more concerned about ******* off my neighbors. I'm a night-owl with powertools!

REFLEXX