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Wall/ceiling ideas….

younganddumb

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Mar 14, 2022
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Just finished my 24x32, stick built storage building…on the outside I ran 2x4 girts every 2 feet and used those to wrap with metal…my interior studs are 16” OC and I’ve almost finished my electrical with the exception of lighting…thinking about 8-12 6” recessed cans 🤔 then I plan on insulating

My main question is, with a 10’ ceiling height, what are some good ideas for the walls and ceiling… I would prefer it be a seamless look, if possible…I’ve thought about corrugated metal on the bottom 3’ then using T-111 on up…just don’t know how aggravating it would be to work with the metal when cutting out for outlets, etc.
as far as the ceiling, what thickness plywood would be sufficient, if I go that route? I won’t be storing things up there, just want it to look nice…thx
 

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duneslider

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Not sure I have much help on your finishes, they sound fine to me but on the can lights that won't be enough light in my opinion. I have 12 6" cans just in my family room and it is a lot smaller than your shop. You might be happier if you plan for the LED T-5 style lights.
 

billconner

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Storage only? 15 to 20 FC is a lot. You might be fine with the right can light.

Confused by ceiling plywood and storage in attic Are you applying plywood under and over bottom chord of trusses or rafter ties?

Why not drywall? Least expensive material wise.
 

Mike65

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Horse Pasture, Va.
We just had a 24' x 25' metal garage put up, we are using led light in the garage. We have 4 fixtures across the center of the ceiling, & there will be 2 on each side on the angle braces. The 4 on the ceiling are on one switch & the 4 on the angle braces are on another switch. Once the garage is insulated we are going to use 1/2" sheetrock on the walls & I am thinking of using corrugated white pvc panels for the ceiling.
 
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younganddumb

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Mar 14, 2022
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Not sure I have much help on your finishes, they sound fine to me but on the can lights that won't be enough light in my opinion. I have 12 6" cans just in my family room and it is a lot smaller than your shop. You might be happier if you plan for the LED T-5 style lights.
Yeah, you might be right…I guess I just like the “look” of the cans and not the traditional shop lights…but, it is a working storage buikding, not so much a “man cave”…thx
 
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younganddumb

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Mar 14, 2022
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Storage only? 15 to 20 FC is a lot. You might be fine with the right can light.

Confused by ceiling plywood and storage in attic Are you applying plywood under and over bottom chord of trusses or rafter ties?

Why not drywall? Least expensive material wise.
No storage/attic…just want to insulate and hide the trusses…yea, the plywood would be applied to the bottom of trusses
 

jack stand

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White metal makes a finished, bright interior that's "one and done". I'm not allowed to use a trowel but some 5/8 moisture resistant drywall would do the same and not be as "busy" looking as metal but it's heavy to put on a ceiling and you'll make 3 trips across it taping and sanding just to "cross" it 2 more times painting it!. 7/16 osb is simply not worth the cost and ***** up paint like a dry sponge.
Lesser drywall (1/2" regular board) with the moisture a shop can get will disappoint you in about 5 years making metal the winner in my opinion even though it's overpriced. But what's not these days. If you're lucky you're metal supplier may have what's called a "liner panel" that's often has a paint or thickness problem and just doesn't make the cut for exterior use. I used to find it for around a dollar to 1.50 a linear foot, but I also remember. $1.85 gas😆
Edit; if you're in an arid climate you may get away with regular drywall.
 
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younganddumb

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Mar 14, 2022
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White metal makes a finished, bright interior that's "one and done". I'm not allowed to use a trowel but some 5/8 moisture resistant drywall would do the same and not be as "busy" looking as metal but it's heavy to put on a ceiling and you'll make 3 trips across it taping and sanding just to "cross" it 2 more times painting it!. 7/16 osb is simply not worth the cost and ***** up paint like a dry sponge.
Lesser drywall (1/2" regular board) with the moisture a shop can get will disappoint you in about 5 years making metal the winner in my opinion even though it's overpriced. But what's not these days. If you're lucky you're metal supplier may have what's called a "liner panel" that's often has a paint or thickness problem and just doesn't make the cut for exterior use. I used to find it for around a dollar to 1.50 a linear foot, but I also remember. $1.85 gas😆
Edit; if you're in an arid climate you may get away with regular drywall.
Great info man…thanks for the input!
 
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Entropy

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Dec 11, 2019
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I agree with the metal route. Easier and lighter than drywall, corrugations allow for easy alignment. Surface mounted EMT with offset RACO boxes allow you to run the EMT either vertically between the ridges or across them as needed. Surface also allows you to add/modify circuits without opening walls. Also much better against physical damage and rodents. Lighting? I used PrimeLights Wildcat LEDs and am very happy with the result. You can always remove metal from walls and replace with wood or other.
 

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CraigStu

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In my garage I set all the electrical outlets at 48" above the floor. You could do that and run metal up to just below the outlets. I absolutely like white metal on the ceiling but not so sure for the walls. I hate doing drywall but walls are not so hard as ceiling. Since the drywall has reduced thickness along the long sides it is much easier for a novice to tape and mud. You could work out using standard 8ft long drywall, and trimming it short to go w/ your 42inch metal on the bottom of the wall.
 

jack stand

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You'll need to add blocking between the studs (@ the transition) to support both the metal and drywall, then there's the weird thickness difference. (Metal 3/3+ vs 1/2" wallboard).
 

CraigStu

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I was just in a place yesterday where they had some metal on walls. It looked to me like they used a metal J channel at the edge. I had never seen that before but it looked exactly like vinyl siding J channel except it's finish matched the metal. They had it at the top edge of the metal and I, am not absolutely sure, but it looked like the used 2 J channels butted together to form an outside corner also.
 

rburke65

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Canfield, Ohio
I was able to find 4’x10’ Georgia Pacific Smart siding which worked great for me. And for a ceiling, ya can’t earn a metal ceiling liner
 

racecougar

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Missouri
I was just in a place yesterday where they had some metal on walls. It looked to me like they used a metal J channel at the edge. I had never seen that before but it looked exactly like vinyl siding J channel except it's finish matched the metal. They had it at the top edge of the metal and I, am not absolutely sure, but it looked like the used 2 J channels butted together to form an outside corner also.
You can see J-channel at the top of the wall and edge of the ceiling in my photo above. Used the same at the bottom of the wall, window/door openings, etc.
 

CraigStu

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You can see J-channel at the top of the wall and edge of the ceiling in my photo above. Used the same at the bottom of the wall, window/door openings, etc.
This is why I love this forum. I learn so much here. I have used metal to roof a shed but that is it. I see it in L or HD and it is in the roofing section and no J channel there at all. I bet if I went to a more specialized supplier I would find J and other trim pieces for interior uses. Thanks guys.
 
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