Wall Covering above overhead doors

[Paladin306]

I've been looking for ideas for covering the wall area above the overhead doors during my shop renovation. I could use the same 3/4" tongue and groove southern yellow pine.

However, because the overhead doors are on rails these sections are divided by the rails from the rest of the walls. In addition, the overhead doors will need a small amount of clearance when they're raised.

Here's a photo of the area I'm talking about. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

View media item 62041
Mark

 

[wssix99]

I'm facing the exact same situation but have not started, yet.

Your tracks are angled away from the wall, so the door should pull away as it raises.

I'll be using drywall, but you should be able to continue your yellow pine over most of the area. Close to the top of the door and around the spring, where you have low clearance, I'd use some metal flashing. (That's what I plan on doing.)

I'm very interested to see if others have more ideas.

 

[kbs2244]

Does your T&G come in 1/2 or 3/8 inch thickness?

 

[garage rookie]

Maybe plane the thickness down as needed so the door will clear.

 

[wssix99]

^ This shoudn't be an issue unless the wood is really thick. The door should already stick away from the wall a bit and the only pinch should be right where the wall and the doors meet.

The door tracks (with a new adjustable roller bracket for the top door panel) may even be adjustable so the door will move away from the wall more aggressively as it moves up.

 

[Paladin306]

I'm facing the exact same situation but have not started, yet.

Your tracks are angled away from the wall, so the door should pull away as it raises.

I'll be using drywall, but you should be able to continue your yellow pine over most of the area. Close to the top of the door and around the spring, where you have low clearance, I'd use some metal flashing. (That's what I plan on doing.)

I'm very interested to see if others have more ideas.

Thanks wssix99,

Lol, as usual looks like I came to the right place. These boards are awesome. I could indeed use the T&G over much of the bigger space on that door. As for the area where the springs and mechanisms are located I could probably just box them in somehow with flashing as you suggested. I've never worked with flashing before. Does it come preformed?


I guess I could also build wood box over it and cover it with the T&G or whatever wood I wanted. I've also tried to think about maintenance should it ever be needed and would maybe put hinges on the top, or bottom of any kind of "box". That way it could be raised on lowered if access was needed.

The space above the other two overheads are much smaller as in the pic below.

View media item 62058

Does your T&G come in 1/2 or 3/8 inch thickness?

Kbs2244,

The T&G is 3/4 inch. So, I'll have to place it a little bit above the door to allow clearance. I haven't measured it yet to determine that fully.

Maybe plane the thickness down as needed so the door will clear.

Garage rookie,

I'd thought about planing it down to really thin, maybe a quarter inch, but I would lose all of the T&G in doing so.

^ This shoudn't be an issue unless the wood is really thick. The door should already stick away from the wall a bit and the only pinch should be right where the wall and the doors meet.

The door tracks (with a new adjustable roller bracket for the top door panel) may even be adjustable so the door will move away from the wall more aggressively as it moves up.

I'll get out the tape measure and see exactly where I'm at.

Mark

 

[hpw]

that mesh that is on the walls(used for holding blown in insulation?), where did you get that?

 

[wssix99]

The space above the other two overheads are much smaller as in the pic below.

Yea, I'm liking sheet metal for that. You can also take the springs/brackets down, put the metal up, and then re-install the hardware over the metal for a clean look. (So you don't have to worry about seams and edges around all the hardware.)

I will do that for mine but... I'm not looking forward to unwinding and re-winding those springs again!

I've never worked with flashing before. Does it come preformed?

You can get just about whatever you want in whatever way you want it. Commercial roofing supplies are a great place to start. The trim for our house is all in sheet metal (Galvalume) and our local roofing supplies were able to bend custom profiles in whatever type/color of metal we wanted.

Getting a fancy box shape would be expensive, but having them do linear shapes is usually reasonable. You'd then use a cutting wheel or snips to cut to length at home and custom-bend the smaller parts however you need them.

Siding contractors also have this skill and also have portable sheet metal brakes if you want to get some help with it.

 

[Paladin306]

that mesh that is on the walls(used for holding blown in insulation?), where did you get that?

hpw,

The insulation company provided it. Initially, they weren't going to put anything up until I asked about it. i knew it was going to take me quite a while to do the walls in between kids, grandkids, yard work, honey-do's etc., etc. and boy was I right. I think they charged an extra $75 to $100. It was well worth it.

Yea, I'm liking sheet metal for that. You can also take the springs/brackets down, put the metal up, and then re-install the hardware over the metal for a clean look. (So you don't have to worry about seams and edges around all the hardware.)

I will do that for mine but... I'm not looking forward to unwinding and re-winding those springs again!

You can get just about whatever you want in whatever way you want it. Commercial roofing supplies are a great place to start. The trim for our house is all in sheet metal (Galvalume) and our local roofing supplies were able to bend custom profiles in whatever type/color of metal we wanted.

Getting a fancy box shape would be expensive, but having them do linear shapes is usually reasonable. You'd then use a cutting wheel or snips to cut to length at home and custom-bend the smaller parts however you need them.

Siding contractors also have this skill and also have portable sheet metal brakes if you want to get some help with it.

Thanks wssix99, I'll start looking around.

As for taking down the hardware and putting it back up I'll have to think about that part double hard. Not sure I'm qualified for all that. I did get mine off track about a year or so ago and I remember winding it back up. But, I managed to get it off track again a couple of weeks ago and couldn't figure out how I did it the first time. So, I ended up just calling a garage door service company to come out and fix it. I probably should have watched them but, at the time, I already had "too many irons in the fire".

Mark

 

[wssix99]

There are a lot of good YouTube videos on spring winding. You just need to acquire some quality winding bars for the job.

... Although, my springs still aren't quite right. I need to start a thread on that. (I'll probably be rewinding mine anyway this fall...

 

[Nighttrain]

Paladin. I didn't read all the responses but I think a galvanized sheet metal would keep the look and give you clearance. As for removing the door springs I had a door company come out and remove ours in the house garage. I had to redo the Sheetrock behind it. I reinstalled the door and spring how they told me. I bought heavy steel rods for this and turned the spring the amount he told me. Don't think I'll ever do that again to save $150. Scary is all I can say.

 

[Paladin306]

Thanks guys, currently starting to look into sheet metals. I like things colorful and had been thinking about colors and then it dawned on me. I did away with the commercial style switch and receptacle covers and am adding diamond plate covers. Hmm, diamond plate, that might be just the ticket. Researching how much it would cost.

I hear ya on having a professional do at least half of it. I'll also research youtube for some videos.

Thanks again,

Mark