wall framing in pole barn

[crewchief437]

So i have a newly built 40x30x10 pole barn and im looking at getting my electrical/spray foam installation done. my electrician brought up framing it up to put drywall up which got me wondering what is the best way to frame it up with the complete barn done. there are 6x6 on 10' centers and 3 horizontal 2x4 runners along the walls on the outside of the poles. i cant really nail into any of this due to the sheet metal. there is 2x4 wrapped around the top of the ceiling on the inside of the poles which i could use. the only thing i can think of is to nail in toe boards. im trying to go the easiest, cheapest route that functions as needed. sorry for the broad explanation. Thanks in advance, Adam

 

[mtwaterguy]

About all you can do now is put in 10' 2x's @ 16" or 24".

 

[Catadj78]

Concrete?

Frame up 10' wide walls and stand up between the poles nailing to the poles and then attach to the concrete. Flush the framed wall with the interior surface of the 6x6.

 

[crewchief437]

About all you can do now is put in 10' 2x's @ 16" or 24".

yea i understand that but whats the best way to go in with them?
maybe a crazy simple question im just looking for best path.

Concrete?

Frame up 10' wide walls and stand up between the poles nailing to the poles and then attach to the concrete. Flush the framed wall with the interior surface of the 6x6.

this is what i was looking for. should have thought of this myself. thanks

 

[Catadj78]

No problem.

Depending on insulation you will be fine with 2' centers.

 

[xtremek]

What are you going to do after that? Are you going to finish the inside by putting up interior walls? If so, what are you going to use? Drywall, OSB, siding of some sort? The sheet size of OSB or drywall may influence your "stud" directions.

 

[lcrabtree]

This is how I did mine.

Lester

 

[ZRH`]

You can also use furring channels with drywall since the walls are nonstructural

 

[sz0k30]

I did the same dumb thing when I built my pole barn 20 years ago. Kicked myself in the *** many times thinking how I screwed up and how difficult it was going to be vs how easy it would & should have been. It would have been a piece of cake for the builder to do it, but I was too cheap at the time. Being too cheap always seems to come back & haunt me every time.

I wound up attaching the 2x6's to the horizontal stringers with 90 degree brackets. What a pain in the ***!

 

[BrianC636]

Concrete?

Frame up 10' wide walls and stand up between the poles nailing to the poles and then attach to the concrete. Flush the framed wall with the interior surface of the 6x6.

This is what I did before I sprayed my pole barn. It just took a little time to anchor the bottom plate to the concrete, once plumb we hung the OSB without issue.

 

[russellmn]

Run 1x4s horizontally on 2' centers. It's not structural, why build a wall when all you need is something to nail/screw to???

 

[Dajn]

Concrete?

Frame up 10' wide walls and stand up between the poles nailing to the poles and then attach to the concrete. Flush the framed wall with the interior surface of the 6x6.

Exactly. That's how I did mine. Just frame a wall and slide it in. Use a green treat board on the bottom of course. I would recommend 2 by 6 wall.

 

[Dajn]

Also one more thing in case you don't know. I used concrete nails for mine. I would never use them again. Get the proper size concrete bit to drill a pilot hole and then drive in your screw that is designed for concrete. They aren't cheap, about a dollar a screw but beats the hell out of pounding the hell out of concrete nails that bust up the concrete and half the time they bend so you have to start pounding away again. Pounding can be fun at times but not pounding concrete nails.

 

[BrianC636]

What we did was drill a hole, put a piece of steel wire in the hole and drive a 16 penny nail into it. Concrete nails irritate the daylights out of me.

Dajn is correct, bottom plate needs to be a green board however since its was just going to OSB, we just used 2x4 to save money.

 

[dfiler2]

What we did was drill a hole, put a piece of steel wire in the hole and drive a 16 penny nail into it. Concrete nails irritate the daylights out of me.

Dajn is correct, bottom plate needs to be a green board however since its was just going to OSB, we just used 2x4 to save money.

Why would the wall covering determine whether or not to use a treated bottom plate?

 

[BrianC636]

Sorry I was not clear. 2x4 walls in lieu of 2x6. Green board on bottom no matter what.

 

[dfiler2]

Sorry I was not clear. 2x4 walls in lieu of 2x6. Green board on bottom no matter what.

Got it, was probably the way I read it too.

 

[Daniel Dudley]

You can go right to rigid foam, and then put furring on top of that at 16 OC

 

[jwvess00]

Hi there!

I framed the walls in my pole barn, I think, like you're wanting to do. I nailed a 2x4 bottom plate and top plate in place, then added studs. Thinking about it, I could have built wall sections like I did with the partition wall I added. I think that would have been faster.

 

[crewchief437]

4x8 sheets of drywall is what im looking at. can i get away with only framing the walls and not the ceiling with spray foam or do i have to cover everything?

 

[ZRH`]

max span for drywall is 24in centers because it sags

 

[xtremek]

I'm pretty sure someone once told me you can get drywall in 8', 10', 12', and 16' lengths. The longer sheets you use, the less work taping joints.

 

[Bear]

Here is how I did it w/2x6. I also spaced my sheeting 3/8" above the floor just because.

 

[1grnlwn]

Not sure how much insulation you want, but I used 1.5" rigid between the perlins, 2x4 wall with 1.5 x 1.5" rigid foam behind studs. Put 6" bat insulation between the studs and 5/8 drywall standing on end. No end-joints to feather. The cavity behind the studs is also a good place to run electrical "smurf". Ceiling we used 2x4 hangers to hang syp 2x4" between trusses every 8' and then 8' studs 90 deg to those on about 2.7' centers. Went with metal ceiling. Sorry no pics never think it is that interesting when you doing it.

 

[Dajn]

I'm pretty sure someone once told me you can get drywall in 8', 10', 12', and 16' lengths. The longer sheets you use, the less work taping joints.

You definitely can. I did mine with 4×12 sheets. 5/8 thick. Heavy as all hell though. I could Google it but I think it was 105 pounds a sheet. Definitely want the lift machine for the top run unless you have three guys handy.

 

[crewchief437]

do i need to cover the ceiling or can i get away with just covering the walls?

 

[Catadj78]

do i need to cover the ceiling or can i get away with just covering the walls?

I am planning on just covering the walls in mine. I have steel trusses on 10' centers though

 

[dfiler2]

If you don't plan to install a ceiling there is really no point in insulating the walls.

 

[PeterT]

I framed up 2x6 wall (on floor), put house wrap on side facing outside. Lifted into place, anchored with a couple concrete screws and fastened between 6x6 posts.
I then sprayed cavities with spray in foam insulation. Put up 3/8 particle board and painted.

Ceilings, I put 2x4s between rafters (flush with bottom), hung 3'x20' metal panels (same stuff roof is made from) from menards, overlapped in center about 6 inches. Laid R30 on top of metal ceiling panels, barn is well insulated.

 

[Dajn]

This doesn't apply to this situation but I have built a few extra walls in my building recently. Things like an extra closet. There are other ways but I prefer to build the wall 1 1/2 inch short of the total height of the wall. That way you can stand it up. Then I put a top plate on it once the wall is in place. Of course now you have three inches plus your sheetrock to get through so I just use 4 inch pole barn nails to fasten to rafters or whatever is up there to fasten to. I know most people put the top plate on, then bottom plate then toenail in the studs. I like my way better but it all works.