Wall Framing Question about Headers

[kckndrgn]

I had my 24x48 garage built earlier this year, inside was left unfinished for me to finish as time and money are available.
I plan on putting in a wall to separate the workshop from the garage area. I do wood turning and wood working as a hobby.
For the wall I want to have a double barn door style door that will be custom made and span about 10' and will be 8' high/tall. Interior dimensions of the garage are about 23'4" and the door will be centered.
Since this is a non-load bearing wall my initial thought for the door header was going to be 2 2x4's stacked, but I'm concerned that the doors I'm using will add too much weight.
Should I go to 2x6's with 1/2" ply between like a regular header, or just do the stacked 2x4's with cripple (I think that's what their called) studs between the header and the top plate?
Interior height is 10'6".
I'll try to find my drawing and attach it later tonight.

Thanks

 

[kd3pc]

2x4 will not be enough

the other thing to think about is what keeps that "wall" with an integrated door opening (swinging doors? or sliders?) from flapping in the breeze...either set of doors will have a certain weight and the top plate will need to be tied to something very stable to keep the wall stationary along that length.

If you use swing - then you need very sturdy sides for the hinges to hang from..if you use roller/slider doors then the top plate(s) need strength to support those rails and keep them operating smoothly. The doors may weigh 100 pounds each or 300 pounds or more...depending on the construction and hardware...that and hardware choice - will drive the construction

 

[kckndrgn]

2x4 will not be enough

the other thing to think about is what keeps that "wall" with an integrated door opening (swinging doors? or sliders?) from flapping in the breeze...either set of doors will have a certain weight and the top plate will need to be tied to something very stable to keep the wall stationary along that length.

If you use swing - then you need very sturdy sides for the hinges to hang from..if you use roller/slider doors then the top plate(s) need strength to support those rails and keep them operating smoothly. The doors may weigh 100 pounds each or 300 pounds or more...depending on the construction and hardware...that and hardware choice - will drive the construction

Thanks, the doors will be sliders, barn door style. 2 doors, 5'w x 8'h. The base plate will be nailed/bolted to the concrete floor and the top will be nailed to the joists.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

If the door tracks hang from the header, I'd use a 4x8 minimum. The old school rule of (I ain't no engineer) thumb is 4x4 up to 4', 4x6 up to 6', 4x8 up to 8' etc.

 

[850xpeps]

If it were me I'd slap some 2x10s in. You'll prob have a few pounds hanging there when they are closed. Couple dollars difference than a 2x6 and cheap insurance imo to keep it straight. The studs above aren't really gonna support it. You also want something tall enough for your rails to bite into.

 

[kbs2244]

850xpeps makes a goo point

 

[Shootinok]

If it were me I'd slap some 2x10s in. You'll prob have a few pounds hanging there when they are closed. Couple dollars difference than a 2x6 and cheap insurance imo to keep it straight. The studs above aren't really gonna support it. You also want something tall enough for your rails to bite into.

I agree with 850...
The 2X10x12's are about $16 here. 2x6's about $9
So double that, the difference is around $15. You get an exponentially stronger element in a header for that additional cost.

 

[kckndrgn]

Thanks all,
I know I've got a 2x12 (currently using it for scaffolding for installing ceiling insulation) and I think there are a few 2x10's and 2x8's left over from my garage build. Gonna dig through the pile to see what I got.

 

[Falcon67]

My "pocket barn door" is 4' wide and uses a 2x6 double + 1/2 ply sandwich header for the 8' run of the door. Door weighs maybe 40 lbs, so not much. 2x10 should do dual 5' doors especially if part of the run is backed up with a wall where the doors park.

Pocket door

 

[kckndrgn]

Thanks,
did a quick sketch-up drawing of the wall (one of these day's I'll get good at using it).
From what I was finding online, I will need at least 2 jack studs on each side.
2 2x10's with a 1/2 ply filler.
I may reduce my opening size by 6" so I can use 10' 2x10's and not have to cut down twelve footers to 10'6"

Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated

Can't wait to get my truck back from the body shop so I can start working on this.

 

[cdestuck]

I'm sure you have your reasons that you want these sliders but I know there is never enough wall space in a shop for hanging stuff. I myself would be wanting hinged doors to keep the wall space clear.

 

[Zeke]

You don't need 2 jack studs on each side. One on each side is enough for a non bearing wall.

 

[Falcon67]

Same, one is plenty. I used two on the overhead door framing only because the door track parts needed a wider mounting surface. Not sure about the rest of the wall, if the doors are going to be very heavy you may want to let in a 2x10 along the entire track mounting distance to support the door track.

If it was me, I'd do a 2x6 wall and run the doors inside - as above, never enough wall or floor space. You'll need 5' on both sides of a 10' opening - total 20' - to let the doors run. That's a lot of empty space. Yellow tape on the floor, "don't park anything here".

 

[kckndrgn]

The sliders will be on the wood shop side of the wall, going behind shelving units. On the garage side I will have the walls for storage.

Thought about the pocket door style, and that still might be an option, but trying to keep costs down as my garage budget ran dry during the build.

 

[buddyboy]

make sure you put in blocking for the tracks to the left and right of your opening