Wall framing question

[8man]

Ok, planning a 36 x 36 garage build. Doing the design now and will start a post on it when I figure out how to post from a drawing (hint: any advice on how to post a PDF would be appreciated) so I can get input on the plan.

Question for today is in regards to the wall framing. I want to do 12" walls so I can put my 2 post lift in it to work on vehicles and use 10' tall garage doors so I can get taller vehicles/trailers in there to work on them. Most of the garage will be for ME, as I'll work on my Jeep project, and continue to the next car project after that, so the lift should be handy, and the tall ceilings/doors a benefit.

I was thinking of using 2" x 6" x 12' boards for the wall framing, but then I got concerned about that length of board warping too much. I have 2" x 6" x 10' studs in a garage now, and I really think they have warped as I look down the walls.

So I was thinking about 8' studs with a 4' cripple wall on top of that, but that presents some other problems.

Am I overthinking this? Should I just go with the 12' boards and be done with it? Does anyone else have a suggestion on this?

Thanks.

 

[12ozd]

Personally, I would build an 8' wall on a 4' poured or block wall.
That would give 12' height and no worries w/ water, spills etc.on the floor. (just my preference)
I did 2x6 framing for increased insulation. My front walls are (2 x 6) x 10' tall. I had to buy my lumber at a "lumberyard" and not Lowes or HD to get straight pieces.
Use a jackshaft door opener, may consider scissor type roof for more clearance.

 

[JCfreak]

Use 12' 2x6 fir studs if you want straight. You may have to call a place or two to find stud grade. It's out there. I live in the pine belt. I just order extra and return my culls.

If you don't need 10' doors, frame at 10' and raise the ceiling above the lift. Or vault the ceiling.

 

[Architorture]

I believe a 2x6 wall 12' tall should work fine as it would be acceptable construction to support even 2 floors and a roof at that height and 24" o.c.

Assuming the 36' is a clearspan I would tend to go with a 16" spacing of studs if you are in a heavy snow area or experience high winds, as a 36' clear span will generate substantial loads at the bearing walls.

Assuming a gabled roof are the doors going on the gable end or the sides?

 

[8man]

The clear span on the long side will be 26' as I am doing a "lawn mower/wife's gardening room in one corner - that room will be framed on all 4 sides and it will be 10' deep by 17' wide (it includes a powder room for convenience). The short span will be 19' off of that. Boy this would be easier if I could post up the PDF. I'll look into that more.

I'm in Texas, so snow it not an issue. I'm inland so wind is not so much an issue at this location. I was thinking about a hipped roof all the way around, so no gables. There will be a man door and 2 10' x 10' garage doors on the "front" side and another 10' x 10' on the rear to match up with one of the front garage doors so I can pull a trailer through to the back yard.

I'll try to post up the in the garage discussion area.