Wall framing question

[86Vette]

I am about to start finally putting up plywood as the finished wall inside my pole barn. My plan is to screw either 2x4s or 2x6s horizontally to the face of the posts, to which I will attach the plywood. Which would you use...2x4s or 2x6? I was planning on doing 6s but some ppl are telling me that's overkill I was planning to use 6s because I thought it might make the wall a bit more ridgid.

If you're thinking of suggesting I frame a traditional wall between each post instead, too late for that. I already sprayed foam insulation. [emoji6]

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[86Vette]

I am about to start finally putting up plywood as the finished wall inside my pole barn. My plan is to screw either 2x4s or 2x6s horizontally to the face of the posts, to which I will attach the plywood. Which would you use...2x4s or 2x6? I was planning on doing 6s but some ppl are telling me that's overkill I was planning to use 6s because I thought it might make the wall a bit more ridgid.

If you're thinking of suggesting I frame a traditional wall between each post instead, too late for that. I already sprayed foam insulation. [emoji6]

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Follow up question. Would every 2 feet be acceptable for spacing?

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[pattenp]

It depends on how far apart you place the 2X4's or 6's. I'd probably space 4's 16", 6's 24" just like normal framing spacing. I do assume you are laying them flat to the post.

 

[Kevin54]

2x4's will be fine as long as you know the spacing of them. From my taking, you are screwing them in flat on the face of the post. BUT....how far apart are your post? If 8' or further, then I would add an upright stud in between just to keep things straight.

 

[Kevin54]

And when running from post to post, stagger your joints for some added strength.

 

[86Vette]

2x4's will be fine as long as you know the spacing of them. From my taking, you are screwing them in flat on the face of the post. BUT....how far apart are your post? If 8' or further, then I would add an upright stud in between just to keep things straight.

Correct, will be screwing flat to the face of the posts. The posts are 8' apart.

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[86Vette]

It depends on how far apart you place the 2X4's or 6's. I'd probably space 4's 16", 6's 24" just like normal framing spacing. I do assume you are laying them flat to the post.

Correct, will be fastening flat to the face of the post.

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[Kevin54]

At 8' apart, I would seriously thing about adding a stud at 4'. All for the fact that if you use a 2x4 or a 2x6 flatways, they can warp and make your walls bowed between post. Add an upright stud the same width as the post, and it will eliminate that.

 

[jack stand]

I'm with Kevin54, or you'll have a "springy" wall. Your other option (if you have the room) is to make a "T" out of your 2x4's by screwing another one to the back, just inside the posts so it will have to be cut shorter. A 2x3 would also do.

 

[86Vette]

At 8' apart, I would seriously thing about adding a stud at 4'. All for the fact that if you use a 2x4 or a 2x6 flatways, they can warp and make your walls bowed between post. Add an upright stud the same width as the post, and it will eliminate that.

Not sure I understand...simply screw an upright 2x4 to the backs of the horizontal 2x4s in the middle between post? Thanks

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[spam4us]

Most pole barns are built with the girts for the exterior walls spaced 2 feet apart horizontally and the metal is screwed to it.

I don't think the interior would be any different. You would just substitute plywood for the metal.

 

[stariforms]

That sounds like a real PITA.

I don't see the 2x6 method eliminating any issues.

It will need some sort of support in the middle to keep it from flexing. Especially if you are using 3/8" - 1/2" plywood.

3/4" plywood would eliminate the flex, but it is going to be very expensive.

I've got no good advice here.....

 

[matt_i]

Can you attach 2x4s between the posts, bookshelf-girt style, but just keep them flush with the outer face of the posts for a flat surface?

I can't see the spray job, if the foam is in the way, just saw/chisel a pocket into it for the 2x4. Obviously have to be very careful of buried wiring.

To attach, I would use the Kreg Jig, the main geometry is setup for a 3/4" or 1X stock, but the thing works great on 2x material if its adjusted back somewhat, then use #10 torx drive deck screws.

 

[CraigStu]

2x4s on 2ft centers and 3/8 plywood will be fine. I don't lean against my garage walls so I see no need for anything stronger.

 

[jack stand]

Not sure I understand...simply screw an upright 2x4 to the backs of the horizontal 2x4s in the middle between post? Thanks

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Yes, I'd orient the addl. stud in the "normal" direction if you have the space.
(attach it to the 1.5" side) they will work off each other adding taking some flex out of the flat (weak dimension) 2x4 spanning close to 8'.

 

[Zeke]

Every think of using light gauge steel stud lengths? Straight as an arrow. An upright at 4' can't hurt. It can float.

 

[Augus7us]

Maybe i'm missing something, but if you already sprayed foam in between your poles and you cannot add a stud wall, how would you add a support stud in the middle of the posts? Would you have to carve that out? Same with the bookshelf girt idea?

 

[KenC]

2x4's on 24" centers. Lay your ply horizontal so no joints in the middle of the post/post span. All joints should fall on a girt or post. Gonna be very little wiggle in that!

 

[86Vette]

2x4's on 24" centers. Lay your ply horizontal so no joints in the middle of the post/post span. All joints should fall on a girt or post. Gonna be very little wiggle in that!

Thank you!

 

[Voi]

I would do 2x4 on 24" centers. If you're worried about flex where heavy things will be hanging then just over-engineer a beveled (aka "French") cleat at the a height around where something like upper cabinets might be hung.

If I'm understanding correctly your spray foam depth will prevent you from adding a stud behind the interior row of girts.

 

[jack stand]

Thank you!

It sound's like your building a first rate shop by the simple fact you opted to spray foam to insulate it. There should be 7" of space between the back of the metal and the face of his post's. Or 5 1/2" from the back of your wall girts. Even if you laid this mid point "stud" flat dimension it would help a lot. It might just be me, but I would not build some thing that will deflect or move by simply leaning on it. that's "framing hackery". Are you just trying to save a couple of dozen 8' 2x4's? Not trying to bust your balls but don't start compromising now on what I imagine is a first rate build.

 

[seanc_mt]

Here's what i did in my pole barn turned out great and plenty sturdy. Seems like alot of folks are way over thinking and engineering something

20180326_203941 by Sean Connell, on Flickr

20180403_083406 by Sean Connell, on Flickr

2x4x8 nailed to each post on 2' centers. Easy and quick.

 

[86Vette]

It sound's like your building a first rate shop by the simple fact you opted to spray foam to insulate it. [emoji106] There should be 7" of space between the back of the metal and the face of his post's. Or 5 1/2" from the back of your wall girts. Even if you laid this mid point "stud" flat dimension it would help a lot. It might just be me, but I would not build some thing that will deflect or move by simply leaning on it. that's "framing hackery". Are you just trying to save a couple of dozen 8' 2x4's? Not trying to bust your balls but don't start compromising now on what I imagine is a first rate build.[emoji481]

Thanks. I should have room to put a 2x4 behind the interior girts. Will try that and see how much of a difference it makes.

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[86Vette]

Here's what i did in my pole barn turned out great and plenty sturdy. Seems like alot of folks are way over thinking and engineering something

20180326_203941 by Sean Connell, on Flickr

20180403_083406 by Sean Connell, on Flickr

2x4x8 nailed to each post on 2' centers. Easy and quick.

Looks great. What did you do for a ceiling?

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