Wall framing

[sansert]

Trying to lay our my garage walls. 24W x 28D Man door is on the left 28' wall. Garage door is on the front 24' wall. No windows. Which wall would you start framing first or does it matter? Would the ends of this first wall be double studded?

As far as breaks in the sill/bottom plate, would it be better to not have the breaks be on the same stud as the top plate? Like the break on the top plate would be 4' away from the break on the bottom plate.

 

[GMCGarage]

Trying to lay our my garage walls. 24W x 28D Man door is on the left 28' wall. Garage door is on the front 24' wall. No windows. Which wall would you start framing first or does it matter? Would the ends of this first wall be double studded?

As far as breaks in the sill/bottom plate, would it be better to not have the breaks be on the same stud as the top plate? Like the break on the top plate would be 4' away from the break on the bottom plate.

Yes, double studs for a nailer for drywall. start with the bearing walls.

use a double top plate, try and break at a stud if you can.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Frame the walls with the smallest openings in them first, as they will be the most solid when erected and braced. This will help support the wall with the opening for the garage door, particularly if you have to install the door header after raising the wall.

 

[6768rogues]

I usually break the wall in between studs and add a scrap piece between studs at the junction. Then I can nail it through the top plates and through the studs to strengthen the seam. If your roof rafters/trusses will sit directly over the studs, you can use a single top plate. If your rafters/trusses will not (for example walls on 16" centers and trusses on 24" centers) then you need a double top plate. If you have to double the top plate, you can do it such that it spans over the seam in the first plate.
Frame your corners so you can get insulation in them later.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

It doesn’t matter as long as you brace them.

For corners we use ‘energy corners’ as we like to call them in michigan. The end of the wall will be a stud at the end of the top/bottom plate, a 4” gap, a stud, then a stud at 7.75” from there, and 16 oc from there. This gives you a perfect 16 oc on the outside to sheet the walls to the middle of the third stud. You also have a full bay in the 4” gap to spray/stuff insulation in obstructed. We nail 2x blocking 16oc for drywall blocking on the second wall or use drywall clips depending on the drywall company.

 

[scottydosnntkno]

The other biggest rule is trust your measurements. If your framing a 26’ wall, cut your bottom and top plates(in multiple pieces ) to exactly that length. Same for your other walls minus the wall thickness. When you lift each wall, all the top and bottom corners should align perfectly. Push or pull them until they do and nail the corners. Run a string line from corner to corner and push/pull along the wall ie adjust your bracing as necessary to square/plumb the building to fit the trusses. You need a 4-6-8’ level to plumb walls not a cheap speed level(8”)

 

[bad_idea]

Check out Larry Haun's videos. The one above covers framing the walls pretty well.

I'm not a framer, but I did frame my 30x40x12 garage myself this past summer. My walls are 2x6 with 10' studs on top of 2 rows of cinder block. Lifting the walls myself was a bit tricky. I built the walls in 16' length as that was manageable enough. I put a stud at the end of each section, where two sections met on a long wall I butted two studs together. Was just easier to work with at a minimal extra cost. I started at a corner, then worked my way around from there. The last thing I did was the roll up door openings. Framed each side of the opening, then built the header w/ cripples and top plate as an assembly and lifted into place.

 

[RocketScott]

Trying to lay our my garage walls. 24W x 28D Man door is on the left 28' wall. Garage door is on the front 24' wall. No windows. Which wall would you start framing first or does it matter? Would the ends of this first wall be double studded?

As far as breaks in the sill/bottom plate, would it be better to not have the breaks be on the same stud as the top plate? Like the break on the top plate would be 4' away from the break on the bottom plate.

Back wall first, 24' wide. No double stud on the ends, California corner

Side walls next. Break the second top plate 4' from the back corner. That keeps you from nailing more than you need to in the air on a ladder

Front is somewhat unique from job to job. It's portal framing and there's a fair bit of variation in what I've seen. Everything here is engineered, usually a full width header, so it depends on your plan

Breaks in the bottom plate don't have to break on a stud (it's not a bad thing if they do though) and have no relation to the breaks in the top plate. What's important is the anchor bolt spacing, 6-12" from the break in the bottom plate

 

[Kevin54]

For some saying double studs at the corner....makes a big difference if you are framing with 2x4's or 2x6's. If you have to triple it, you can add blocking, then foam the corner voids.