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Wall insulation. Good or bad idea. Help!

colnago

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Joined
Sep 5, 2015
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42
Trying to section off a room in my pole barn. I plan on heating this area with baseboard heat. I was going to use spray foam, but this is what I have come up with instead.
I am using rigid 1.5 inch foam board between the purlins. Going to fill and tape seams. Then I plan on putting up a conventional wall with fiberglass batting between studs.
Think doing it this way is a good idea?? I am not a builder and no nothing about insulation tecniques.
Thanks for any advice.
 

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toyotadriver

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Dec 30, 2010
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1,586
I did something similar....just installed it as the shop was being built. It has worked well. I have batts between the studs.

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Jess

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Oct 22, 2006
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Location
Vancouver Island, BC Canada
Depending on your geographical location, batts and vapour barrier will work. For expensive heating like electric resistance heaters, air sealing is very important. Any air moving through the insulation will draw heat away with it and your electric bill will be large. Some use the 'flash and batt' method to overcome this problem. An inch of spray foam and then batts inside to fill the wall cavity. This prevents air movement between the stud bays and to the exterior. Good insulation may be expensive but its cheap once you start heating with electricity.
 

Elginz

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Dec 29, 2014
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431
Location
Oconto, WI
Depending on your geographical location, batts and vapour barrier will work. For expensive heating like electric resistance heaters, air sealing is very important. Any air moving through the insulation will draw heat away with it and your electric bill will be large. Some use the 'flash and batt' method to overcome this problem. An inch of spray foam and then batts inside to fill the wall cavity. This prevents air movement between the stud bays and to the exterior. Good insulation may be expensive but its cheap once you start heating with electricity.

Yup,
Air seal each cavity before putting in the bats.
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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18,493
Location
visalia ca
Yup,
Air seal each cavity before putting in the bats.

What you are doing will work fine. I agree with what is above as to air sealing.

When installing fiberglass, the quality of the install is most important. The fiberglass must have 6 sided contact and have fluff. Do not compress it, and make sure it fills the cavity it is in.
The way that fiberglass works is to hold the air in the cavity still. The air is the actual insulator. The fiberglass is actually a conductor and when you compress more of it into a cavity you reduce the R-value because you reduced the still air and increased the conducting material.
Preventing the air leaks into the space will also help keep that trapped air still so it can do its job.

Bob
 
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Maineshop

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Nov 3, 2015
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Location
Maine (Portland area)
Pink fiberglass is garbage... I would look to find something similar to Roxul. They make it out of some kind of stone material and slag. It's fire resistant, good sound absorber, resistant to mold / mildew, and it won't slump out of place if it gets a little wet for whatever reason in the future. Pink fiberglass insulation should be outlawed IMO.

I woud foam can every crevice of the XPS prior to putting up the insulation batt material. Air sealing has been mentioned above... Do a little research on that topic. It's not all super obvious. Look underneath where your sill plate contacts the concrete too. You can lose a lot of energy if there are gaps. At night have somebody go around the outside with a flashlight and see if light leaks through to the inside.
 

COBRA5LADDICT

Active member
Joined
Feb 20, 2008
Messages
31
i did my 30x50 the same way. i had double bubble on the building exterior before siding. i added 1" XPS foam, sprayed the cracks with expanding foam. then unfaced batt, then steel siding. the building is remarkably tight and quiet. i would do this method again.


 
OP
C

colnago

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Sep 5, 2015
Messages
42
Thx for the input. Iam just cutting and covering all the seams with tape. Haven't got to the batting yet. I will look into this Roxul stuff.
 
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