Wall protection ?
- Thread starter 427HISS
- Start date
Vinko
Well-known member
I took some scrap diamond plate from a truck bed -- about 20" tall and 1/4" thick. Maybe it was 3/16's.
Cut it, straightened it, and had it powdercoated.
On corners I cut 3/8's 4" angle iron.
Overkill, but fun
Cut it, straightened it, and had it powdercoated.
On corners I cut 3/8's 4" angle iron.
Overkill, but fun
-B-
Well-known member
Commercial indoor out door carpet squares use the ones you have to glue on rather then the peel and stick type.
AP2TUDE
Well-known member
I always wanted to use rolled stainless, just tack it down and hit it with scotchbrite to make the surface pattern even.
These are some great ideas.
AP2TUTD-"I always wanted to use rolled stainless, just tack it down and hit it with scotchbrite to make the surface pattern even".
Awesome. It would closely match my 427 cobra dash. That's a cool idea. I made a lot of custom pieces on the car out of stainless. Most recently new ss side pipes. That would sure pull the car and the finished garage pull together.
What do you think ?
(I don't know why when I post pics, that the Blondie is always sitting on my car)!!! lol
AP2TUTD-"I always wanted to use rolled stainless, just tack it down and hit it with scotchbrite to make the surface pattern even".
Awesome. It would closely match my 427 cobra dash. That's a cool idea. I made a lot of custom pieces on the car out of stainless. Most recently new ss side pipes. That would sure pull the car and the finished garage pull together.
What do you think ?
(I don't know why when I post pics, that the Blondie is always sitting on my car)!!! lol
Attachments
Sweet Old Bill
Well-known member
Was there supposed to be a car in that last picture?
ddawg16
Well-known member
Car? What car?
Shocker
Well-known member
With Swisstrax being on sale, maybe you could tack it up on the wall.
I guess a lot of how to solve this problem depends on use -- how much actual damage you expect to suffer and how important it is to you to be able to repair damage when it's done to the protective stuff. The smart thing about wainscoting (had to look up how to spell that) is that it's often made out of multiple pieces -- which makes me think replacing individual pieces without having to tear the whole thing out was part of the plan. A lot of time it's also hardwood, which is tougher than plaster, but the common use of tongue-and-groove vertical slats makes me think (again) of ease of replacement for a section versus the whole.
The thing that bugs me about corrugated metal is that it dents easily and there's no simple way to repair those dents. But I suppose if you installed it vertically, with a cap piece that was removable, you could replace individual sections (what is that stuff, 3' wide?). It is pretty inexpensive, if I remember right.
It might be worth looking into inexpensive fencing materials, like pine slats, as a way you could have a protective layer that's also repairable in small sections. Is there any kind of cheap plastic slatting that could be re-purposed for this? Something 1"x.25", even if it was flexible like a Hot Wheels track, could be held in place with grooves above and below and maybe a little adhesive.
Old pallet lumber?
I'll bet someone with some time and a way to trim it out could even make OSB look good, if you paneled it like interior wainscoting.
Or I suppose you could just be really careful with your sheetrock garage walls.
But where's the fun in that?
The thing that bugs me about corrugated metal is that it dents easily and there's no simple way to repair those dents. But I suppose if you installed it vertically, with a cap piece that was removable, you could replace individual sections (what is that stuff, 3' wide?). It is pretty inexpensive, if I remember right.
It might be worth looking into inexpensive fencing materials, like pine slats, as a way you could have a protective layer that's also repairable in small sections. Is there any kind of cheap plastic slatting that could be re-purposed for this? Something 1"x.25", even if it was flexible like a Hot Wheels track, could be held in place with grooves above and below and maybe a little adhesive.
Old pallet lumber?
I'll bet someone with some time and a way to trim it out could even make OSB look good, if you paneled it like interior wainscoting.
Or I suppose you could just be really careful with your sheetrock garage walls.
But where's the fun in that?
twostory
Well-known member
I do not have any interior wall in my garage yet, it is just studs.
But this thread discussion seems like overkill for most garage users.
I never damaged the dry wall in my last house. So just how bullet proof does the wall need to be?
Drywall is cheap, easily repaired and fire resistant. Dry wall is what I will finish my garage with eventually.
Now if you want a different look than painted drywall, go for it, but I would not worry if the wall was tough enough.
But this thread discussion seems like overkill for most garage users.
I never damaged the dry wall in my last house. So just how bullet proof does the wall need to be?
Drywall is cheap, easily repaired and fire resistant. Dry wall is what I will finish my garage with eventually.
Now if you want a different look than painted drywall, go for it, but I would not worry if the wall was tough enough.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I always liked blue!!!!
I had tons of holes in the drywall of my last shop. I do lots of machining and such, and it doesn't take much to have your drywall looking like ****. Not only that, but unless you have a real good paint on the walls oil and stains will ruin the paper face and soak into the gypsom making replacement mandatory....I now have gloss painted OSB throughout and love it.
Spence
rieferman
Well-known member
jack olsen wrote:
That's exactly what I'm doing. It turns out that not all pallets are created equal. Light, inexpensive products, that aren't travelling far are on **** pallets. On the other hand, heavy products, costly products, and items travelling far are on better wood.
My favorite source so far is the local beer distributor - very heavy product, travels far, therefore on good pallets (often times, hard woods. lots of oak.). Beer guy doesn't want him, so they're free. Crow bar or sawzall to pull the stringers free, and off you go. Plus the rest of the pallet makes good campfire supplement.
That's exactly what I'm doing. It turns out that not all pallets are created equal. Light, inexpensive products, that aren't travelling far are on **** pallets. On the other hand, heavy products, costly products, and items travelling far are on better wood.
My favorite source so far is the local beer distributor - very heavy product, travels far, therefore on good pallets (often times, hard woods. lots of oak.). Beer guy doesn't want him, so they're free. Crow bar or sawzall to pull the stringers free, and off you go. Plus the rest of the pallet makes good campfire supplement.