For exterior wall (10') sheathing, wondering if there are any code issues with starting bottom row with a 2' section vs. finishing with that at the top? Since this will be one man DIY thinking that getting that 2' lower row done would be a lot easier than man handling a 4x8 sheet. Then I can just sit the 4x8s on top of the 2' for support and nail away.
Wall sheathing question
- Thread starter feotto
- Start date
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Are you running the sheathing horizontally and staggering the joints? It is supposed to resist racking better, but some local codes are different. You will end up the same two foot strip however. I personally would start with the two foot strip to make it easier on myself, and tack a couple of nails into the studs to pull up against them for easier placement and alignment. A chalk line to set to is required in my opinion. I ran my sheathing horizontally.
I'm actually going to run sheathing vertically after some research. Weyerhaeuser and others state either way doesn't affect shear strength/racking. I know there's arguments either way though. Good video on this here:
Thanks for the feedback.
Does not matter code wise if you have a 2 foot piece at the top or the bottom. When I built my detached, I butted the full sheets up against the bottom of the trusses, leaving a 2 ish foot piece along the bottom of the wall. I ran 2x8 pieces horizontally below the vertical 4x8 sheets, staggering the joints. But on the gable sides, I started at the bottom and put trapezoid shaped pieces above, again staggering the joints.
larry4406
Well-known member
Look into TallWall which is a 10' product.
Did look into that and doesn't appear that TallWall is readily available here (at least Lowes or HD). Menards has standard 7/16 4x10 OSB at $25 ea. and 4x8 sheets at $14 ea. About a $140 premium for 3 walls using 10'. Probably worth it and may decide to adjust my BOM.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'd go with 10 footers. Zip can be bought at that size as well
Kaizen
Well-known member
the two foot at the bottom might allow you to better run a string line and get all the big ones above nice and level. As I put mine up solo I put up 12 foot walls so laying mine horrizontally bridged the sections more making it more structurally sound. I'd recommend spending a little more and using zip as it can be in the weather for a long time. I think mine was exposed for over a year while i sheathed and tinned the roof.
Two other solo tricks that worked well for me was to attach two scrap one foot pieces below the piece you are doing with it protruding half inch up above last piece. Makes a gulley that are like extra hands holding it. I also took some 2x4 scraps and screwed through the zip to make hand holds temporarily to get it up on the wall when i started to get tired.
Two other solo tricks that worked well for me was to attach two scrap one foot pieces below the piece you are doing with it protruding half inch up above last piece. Makes a gulley that are like extra hands holding it. I also took some 2x4 scraps and screwed through the zip to make hand holds temporarily to get it up on the wall when i started to get tired.
For a shear wall the plywood is installed sideways when strength is needed to take high wind load (pressure applied to the plywood face). Then you are faced with blocking the free edges and nailing to get the shear capacity stated in the spec. For floor and roof diaphragms the plywood is always installed across the joist or rafters. You can pick the plywood pattern out of the spec that gives the shear capacity you need, blocked or not.
duneslider
Well-known member
If the engineer didn't call it out to be a specific direction then it doesn't matter. None of the shear walls in my house are layed horizontal, all vertical, and all have a called out nailing schedule. I can't say I have ever seen walls done horizontal in my area and I know that I have never framed that way. We aren't necessarily in a "high wind" zone but we are in a seismic zone.
If you think it would be easier to run the two footers on the bottom then do it that way. I have generally been a sheath it on the floor and lift it up kind of a person, so I usually don't put a lot of sheathing on vertical walls. I guess working alone it would be easier to stand unsheathed walls and sheath them when up.
If you think it would be easier to run the two footers on the bottom then do it that way. I have generally been a sheath it on the floor and lift it up kind of a person, so I usually don't put a lot of sheathing on vertical walls. I guess working alone it would be easier to stand unsheathed walls and sheath them when up.
nmk_61802
Well-known member
Is one location or the other easier to install the horizontal seam blocking?
I'm the "engineer" calling it out.
Doing my own drawings for the permit.Are you over lapping the foundation at all or is the sheathing even with the foundation. I've seen it done different ways.
If it's even with the foundation, you can stick a couple of nails between the foundation and sill plate. This will give you a place to set the sheet as you're attaching it.
If it's even with the foundation, you can stick a couple of nails between the foundation and sill plate. This will give you a place to set the sheet as you're attaching it.
That's a good idea. Not sure yet if I'll leave an overlap or not. Probably not as it will have vinyl siding and I can have the starter strip hang a bit below the bottom of the OSB to help with water drip/splash.
duneslider
Well-known member
We call that a "code built" building. You don't have to have engineering if you follow the code tables, unless the city requires it.I'm the "engineer" calling it out.
Junkman
Well-known member
When I built my home, I was getting a price for sheetrock at a local building supply company, and there was a fellow there who did sheetrock for a living. He told me that he could do the job for about what I would have to pay for materials. I got the price for buying the materials, and he gave me his price. It was less expensive to have him do the job because he got a much better price for the materials. Watching them install the sheetrock was like watching a well-choreographed dance. They had the house and 4-car garage done in less than 2 days, and with the high ceilings, I am glad that I didn't try to do the job myself. That was 35 years ago, and a building contractor told me that he farms it out to the professional rockers
I'm planning on doing standard 4x8 on gable ends so I have a nice tie in from wall to gable.
I hear what you're saying. When I finished my basement (1000 sq.ft.) I did everything BUT the sheetrock. No interest in tackling that. That said, I've worked on framing, concrete, siding, roofing etc. crews as summer jobs while in college and not afraid to tackle this. I'm subbing the slab/footing though, and just going to drywall the ceiling while doing OSB on interior walls.
reader2580
Well-known member
The code tables are pretty limited if you’re building above 12 foot side walls. Some municipalities don’t care if you build something not in the code tables, but others require engineering.
Table R602.3(6) of the IRC shows maximum height of stud walls. Minnesota has a building code based the the IRC. Minnesota has added a table that allows buildings with up to 34’ roof span unsupported and 16’ tall walls. The city I live in required engineering for a 40x60x16 building. I had an engineer do the engineering for my plan, but it added $10,000 to $15,000 to the cost of construction. I ended up only going 24 feet wide to save money, and to not require engineering.