Wall sheeting options

[Bruce T]

I finally have my barn done (34x48x14) and its time for the inside sheeting. This shop is used for cnc plasma cutting and welding type fab shop so I do not want wood or drywall. I was thinking of the sheet metal siding used on polebarns but was wondering if there was something else to consider. It will cost about $2100 for enough siding to finish the inside but thats quite a bit cheaper than drywall by the time you figure the labor, mud, paint ect. I thought there was a fiberglass/plastic sheet that was heat and spark resistant. Please discuss. Thanks, Tab

 

[toxicz28]

It takes alot of heat to get drywall to ignite. I've cut steel with a torch right next (cutting towards it from 2" away) to 5/8" firecode drywall, and it wouldn't even smolder for more than 5 seconds. I personally would stay away from fiberglass and plastics for obvious reasons.

 

[Vermaraj]

GP is offering paperless drywall. almost impossible to ignite by sparks.

 

[cc_rider]

I'd use one of the Hardie products like Hardi-baker. Hardie products are concrete-based; I've held a MAPP torch directly on it with no ill effects. It'll blacken of course, but is otherwise impervious. I use scraps as backers when sweating pipes; AFTER I discovered what a torch does to fiberglass insulation. No harm done, thankfully. Live and learn.

Metal is not as good as you'd think; it'll warp like crazy when heated. Some contractors are against metal studs for that reason. Wood does burn, true, but if the stud is warped into a pretzel it doesn't much matter; the structure is shot regardless.

Hardi-products are classified as 'masonry' for insurance purposes; it's as good as brick in terms of fire resistance, but looks like siding. Takes paint extremely well (prime first!) and lasts forever.

You can get 1/4" sheets of it, that's all you'd need. It ain't real cheap like drywall, but you'll only have to install it once. You could just use it around your 'welding station' if you have a dedicated area.

Google 'Hardie' or 'Hardiboard' or 'Hardiplank' and you'll find tons o' info.

Hope that helps!

c.

 

[Bruce T]

I'm not really applying heat directly to the material so thats not a real concern. The problem with drywall for me is that its costly, have to have the skills to hang and finish, then the cost of painting it. Let alone if you hit it with something you have a crappy looking hole or something. The steel I can put up and its already painted. I was just thinking there was a material out now that is pre finished that is heat resistant that could take the place of steel. My house garage has finished drywall and its fine for that but no work gets done in there.

 

[Krodad]

I agree with the Hardi-Panel idea.

Remember that if you hit the steel, it will dent and it's there forever. Hit the drywall or hardi panel hard enough to damage, and you just spackle and touch up with some of the paint you kept for just such occasions. There is really nothing better than the hardi panel in my opinion. If you leave a big door open and rain gets in, no staining either.

It is a bit more expensive, but get the stucco syle panel, **** the sheets together, and if you don't want to mud the joints, don't. You can always hide the seams with wood batten boards and you instantly have exposed nailers for shelves, tool hanging, etc.

 

[Vermaraj]

Along the lines of the hardi products. Here is a link to various manufacturers of exterior fiber-cement siding. It comes pre-primed and is installed without mud or taping.

You can get 4x8 sheets that have verticle pattern like metal siding or a smooth pattern. Caulking between the joints would be optional in your application.

http://www.cement.org/homes/ch_bs_fibercement.asp

 

[PAToyota]

I agree with the comments about metal denting or even scratching the surface. If you go to 5/8" gyp, you aren't going to be punching holes in it like with 1/2" board. The cement fiber panels are another good idea. They also make cement fiber trim pieces - 1x material - that you could do a board and batten type setup with.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I like the metal idea. It makes a great ceiling material too because it reflects light so well. I used it for ceiling material and then brought it down 5 feet on my walls. I used T1-11 under that to get something sort of rustic looking and more durable than drywall. The downsides (to me) of running metal all the way to the floor would be the look, dents, and ridges stick out 2" keeping anything from sitting flush to the wall. For a commercial shop, I think metal looks fine. I just didn't want it all the way down in my garage. The other thing I considered was switching colors midway down to a contrasting color for a snazzyier look.

Here's a pic of my setup.

Good luck! I spent more time thinking about what to do with the interior walls than any other decission in my build!

Phil

 

[Dave Carney]

That looks good Phil, thanks for the pic. I'm going to use metal too but run it all the way down the wall. It goes up fast, is strong enough to go 4' on center with ceiling joists in a pole building (assuming no storage, just the metal panel and insulation), looks good, is already painted and won't require future painting, no mudding, light weight and easy to handle by yourself, fire resistant, won't mold, need to take off a section sometime to get back in the wall? no problem.

 

[Notch1988]

Where would you source the metal panelling from?

 

[Dave Carney]

Just about any pole building builder, also, places that sell pole building kits.

 

[Bruce T]

Your exactly right about the pro's Dave. Those are the reasons I like it. I have found the fiberglass/plastic sheeting I was origonaly asking about but it would be VERY expensive. Plus they recommend that it goes over a solid surface, which would defeat my purpose. I have found a brand called Wheeling 5v panels that are 2' wide (what my 2x6 studs are placed at) and there is enough flat area to be able to mount my electrical boxes on it flush like normal. That was my main concern about using metal sheeting. It would be cheaper than drywall (assuming I would need someone to hang it), and I can get it in any length and in almost any color. I will post pics when done but I may not have the funds till next summer. I was lucky enough to get the new shop as it is. Thanks, Tab

 

[Dave Carney]

For receptacles I just used 4" metal boxes mounted flush, with a 5/8" "mud ring" cover plate. This will give the necessary clearance for the high ridge in the wall metal.

 

[JasonK]

I work at a Lowe's Home Improvement Store. We sell our damaged hardi-backer board for as cheap as 1.00 a sheet. That is 10.00 off for a bunged up corner or a sheet broke in 1/2. Go there and sweet talk a couple of the guys to call you when they have a few sheet. I bought all I needed for my tile project, took a month to ge them all but saved over 160.00.

 

[Bruce T]

It would probably take years to get enough board to cover a 34x48x14 shop, including the ceiling. Plus I'm not sure how it would look with pieced together and damaged hardi board. Not a bad idea for a smaller barn though.