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Wallpaper over luan/ply

acer66

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Hey,

Hope this is the right place for this question.

New to me house has a bad wallpaper job and underneath the wallpaper is old kinda rough plaster that has who knows how many coats of peeling paint on it.

Walls are getting wallpaper again.

Thought is to sheet over everything with either luan, underlayment or something similar.

Then spackle and sand joints smooth.

Roll on a coat of Weldbond or similar to seal the wood.

Then wallpaper it.

Has anyone done something like this and can give some more tricks and tricks?

Found very little info online which might be a hint.


Thank you.
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Personally if it were mine and I was committed to NOT removing the wallpaper and working to improve the original plaster, I'd cover it with 1/4" drywall. It used to exist, I don't know if it still does and your local building supply can provide it most likely.
If you're going to go to the trouble of installing a new surface anyway - having to secure it, tape and mud the joints and paint it I'd use the proper materials instead - drywall. What about leveling electrical boxes to the new surface? Do you have a plan for that?

A hundred years ago (actually 1970 to 1977) I worked at Sears in Paint and Wallpaper and of course sold a LOT of wallpaper. It will be much more forgiving of painted drywall than luan plywood.
 
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Stuart in MN

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Is the intent to put the luan over the old wallpaper? I agree with using 1/4" drywall but either way I'd strip the old wallpaper first. You can rent a steamer for removing it, it's kind of a messy job but I think it's the right way to go.

(My house was built in 1913 and most rooms were wallpapered from new. None of the previous owners ever removed any, they just put up another layer. My living room had 11 layers of wallpaper, it was like an archeological dig removing it all.)
 

CGT80

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What does bad wallpaper mean? That is very vague.

Is the existing wallpaper tight and not peeling or bubbled?

If so, I would prime with zinsser coverstain water based primer and then patch with hot mud, like 20 min fast set, sand, then prime again.

You could do a test with water based primer and if it bubbles, it will need oil primer. Oil cover stain is my choice.

Wallpaper just needs a sound surface

If it is all peeling off that is another matter. The problem with thin drywall will be that there isn't much thickness for screws and it is flimsy so may need glue too. Then you have even more mud work and primer to do before wallpaper.

I would be tempted to test how easily it removes with a steamer first, even though I'm a pro at drywall and paint. Wallpaper would never be an option for me. My uncle used to hang it but I only gave him a hand and didn't bother to learn it and instead did everything else for his painting company. Even in the mid 90s when I started, wallpaper popularity was declining.
 

Stuart in MN

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I actually kind of like putting up wallpaper but maybe I'm just weird. I do think it should be used sparingly, like for a single room or maybe on an accent wall. It also depends on the age of the house, it's more appropriate in a 19th century home than a 21st century home.
 
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acer66

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Personally if it were mine and I was committed to NOT removing the wallpaper and working to improve the original plaster, I'd cover it with 1/4" drywall. It used to exist, I don't know if it
still does and your local building supply can provide it most likely.
If you're going to go to the trouble of installing a new surface anyway - having to secure it, tape and mud the joints and paint it I'd use the proper materials instead - drywall. What about leveling electrical boxes to the new surface? Do you have a plan for that?

A hundred years ago (actually 1970 to 1977) I worked at Sears in Paint and Wallpaper and of course sold a LOT of wallpaper. It will be much more forgiving of painted drywall than luan plywood.
Problem with removing the wallpaper is most likely opening a can of worms since parts of multiple layers of old paint were stuck to it.

Dealing with lead paint, scraping, floating out the walls is not something I want to deal will.

Which is why drywall is also not that high on the list bit I might have to it that way.

1/4” drywall is available around here.

like captiondiode stated below electrical box extenders are availible.

+1 on drywall. You can get electrical box extenders.
👍
luan wouldn't be my choice .
👍
Is the intent to put the luan over the old wallpaper? I agree with using 1/4" drywall but either way I'd strip the old wallpaper first. You can rent a steamer for removing it, it's kind of a messy job but I think it's the right way to go.

(My house was built in 1913 and most rooms were wallpapered from new. None of the previous owners ever removed any, they just put up another layer. My living room had 11 layers of wallpaper, it was like an archeological dig removing it all.)
Not sure why I would remove the old wallpaper.
I cannot glue the drywall on the wall directly because of the flacking paint behind it.

That sounds like fun.
My current house had newspaper used as wallpaper on cardboard.

Sometimes a good idea … isn’t.

Here you’re combining a task I’m not good At (tape & mud) with a task I despise (hanging wallpaper). I can’t think of a way to make this worse than by adding luan to it.
I hear you.
What does bad wallpaper mean? That is very vague.

Is the existing wallpaper tight and not peeling or bubbled?

If so, I would prime with zinsser coverstain water based primer and then patch with hot mud, like 20 min fast set, sand, then prime again.

You could do a test with water based primer and if it bubbles, it will need oil primer. Oil cover stain is my choice.

Wallpaper just needs a sound surface

If it is all peeling off that is another matter. The problem with thin drywall will be that there isn't much thickness for screws and it is flimsy so may need glue too. Then you have even more mud work and primer to do before wallpaper.

I would be tempted to test how easily it removes with a steamer first, even though I'm a pro at drywall and paint. Wallpaper would never be an option for me. My uncle used to hang it but I only gave him a hand and didn't bother to learn it and instead did everything else for his painting company. Even in the mid 90s when I started, wallpaper popularity was declining.
The whole house was renovated by I would say by someone who was a bit out his comfort zone.
Wall paper is peeling at a lot of the edges.
Which are often not lined up properly.

I grew up with wallpaper but have not done it in a very long time.

Good point with potential issues with 1/4” drywall.
Maybe I have to tear into it and remove it and scrape off paint and learn how to float out walls.

There are several rooms that will get wallpaper but this is the only one which already has wallpaper on it and is on an old plaster wall.
Wallpaper guys are very rare and very expensive around here.
Besides I am up to learn a new skill.
I actually kind of like putting up wallpaper but maybe I'm just weird. I do think it should be used sparingly, like for a single room or maybe on an accent wall. It also depends on the age of the house, it's more appropriate in a 19th century home than a 21st century home.
Yes, that is actually the plan and thinking.
I actually like the wallpaper in that room which is rather small.
This is a old American square house.
Even the different wallpaper will be a having a bit of a wow factor.
We are also have a bit of fun with them.
 

Hank11

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You will also have to deal with the door and window trim as all the jams will be short. But this might be less of a problem for you than removing the old stuff. If you drywall, use construction adhesive and screws.
 
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acer66

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You will also have to deal with the door and window trim as all the jams will be short. But this might be less of a problem for you than removing the old stuff. If you drywall, use construction adhesive and screws.
Yeah, I think with something thin I can get away with the moulding and trims.

It is almost ironic that this is the only room with plaster wall left.
The rest of the house they gutted it.
They left the original door and window jambs/trim in which is nice.
What is not so nice that they did not shim out the studs for the thinner dry wall so there are gaps between trim and drywall all they way around.
They could have used custom corner trim to compensate for that but they did not.

A fortunately only few almost comical attempts to close those gaps made my eyes roll more than once.

Anyway, sounds like I need to remove the wallpaper and scrape of the loose paint underneath it to be able to glue the drywall.

0h well.
 

theoldwizard1

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You will also have to deal with the door and window trim as all the jams will be short. But this might be less of a problem for you than removing the old stuff. If you drywall, use construction adhesive and screws.
At my brother-in-law's place, they left all of that in place and just butted the new drywall up against it. You barely even notice it !
 
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acer66

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Should have posted some pics in the beginning.

I am on my phone and cannot get text between the pictures.

We are reconsidering now to see if glueing it back on painting or wall paper over it.
Most concerning to me are the joints shown in picture two which are how most joints look like.

Is there an easy way like a fast setting glue with container with a needle nose type tip to get underneath the wallpaper to make sure it does not pull off further for painting?

Or if we wallpaper over it could we make sure the new joints are offset to the old joints and call it a day?

Man my brain is fried today again.

Thanks for all the help guys.

IMG_6248.jpeg
 

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MovingAlong

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Or if we wallpaper over it could we make sure the new joints are offset to the old joints and call it a day?

You'll run into the same issue you would if you just painted it with latex - trapped water while drying. This will delaminate the existing paper, so while your new paper will adhere to the old, the old will lift from the wall.

Shellac primer first, then do what you want... :thumbup:

*note, statements implying something "will" work should be read as "probably will" work. :coffee:
 
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caleb383

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Hey,

Hope this is the right place for this question.

New to me house has a bad wallpaper job and underneath the wallpaper is old kinda rough plaster that has who knows how many coats of peeling paint on it.

Walls are getting wallpaper again.

Thought is to sheet over everything with either luan, underlayment or something similar.

Then spackle and sand joints smooth.

Roll on a coat of Weldbond or similar to seal the wood.

Then wallpaper it.

Has anyone done something like this and can give some more tricks and tricks?

Found very little info online which might be a hint.


Thank you.
Sheeting the walls with thin underlayment is a smart way to bypass the nightmare of scraping old peeling paint. Just make sure you countersink your fasteners and use a high-quality primer before sizing the walls, otherwise the new wallpaper might not adhere smoothly.
 

Ultradog MN

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The more I read these forums the more I'm convinced that people are afraid of mudding.
I suggest you remove all the wallpaper.
Hire someone to repair and skim coat the old plaster. Paint or wall paper as you like.
It will be cheaper, much nicer and add more value than any other repair.
 

cmandp

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Hey, I'd say that wallpaper is back in style right now lol.

But whatever you do don't paint over it. That's makes it nearly impossible to strip as you can't get water through it to the paste to soften it later.
Someone did that to one of our rooms. Painted over wall paper plus they didn't have the decency to size the drywall before putting the wallpaper on it. It was easier to rip all the drywall out and start over with all of the ripped drywall facing.
 

Ultradog MN

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Hey, I'd say that wallpaper is back in style right now lol.

But whatever you do don't paint over it. That's makes it nearly impossible to strip as you can't get water through it to the paste to soften it later.
Someone did that to one of our rooms. Painted over wall paper plus they didn't have the decency to size the drywall before putting the wallpaper on it. It was easier to rip all the drywall out and start over with all of the ripped drywall facing.
It would still have been cheaper and easier to rip it off and skim out the wall.
 
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acer66

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The more I read these forums the more I'm convinced that people are afraid of mudding.
I suggest you remove all the wallpaper.
Hire someone to repair and skim coat the old plaster. Paint or wall paper as you like.
It will be cheaper, much nicer and add more value than any other repair.
I did one too many drywall jobs.🤪

But on a more serious note this house finished otherwise and this room was on the back burner.

We will have to see how it looks when the wall paper is removed.

Who knows in the end we might skim coat it when we do some other drywall work we do not really want to do.

Good thing is now I at least I know what not to do.
 

pcmeiners

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We are also now considering just to take off the wallpaper
Good luck removing the glue and patching so you can paint. As is the paper delaminated in spots, wait to you get the paper off then you will see the how much really needs repair.
Or strip it and skim coat, then paint.
Have you ever skim coated a room ?, what a PITA, the dust is particularly enjoyable, if you chose this make sure you have at least an 18" finishing trowel .

Rock it with 3/8", first finds out why moisture is coming through the wall. If it is an outside wall, remove down to the studs.
 

PoorUB

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Good luck removing the glue and patching so you can paint. As is the paper delaminated in spots, wait to you get the paper off then you will see the how much really needs repair.

Have you ever skim coated a room ?, what a PITA, the dust is particularly enjoyable, if you chose this make sure you have at least an 18" finishing trowel .

Rock it with 3/8", first finds out why moisture is coming through the wall. If it is an outside wall, remove down to the studs.
IMO, and I have done both, skim coating is easier than putting up 3/8" rock. You will have dust with either. With a little practice and good tools skim coating can be done with very little sanding.

We went through this in one room of our house. Removing wall paper just tore up the walls. In a few places all the sheet rock paper was gone. I leaned how to skim coat a wall with that room and it turned our well, but I cheat and will spray on a light texture too. It helps hide any sins!
 
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Ultradog MN

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Good luck removing the glue and patching so you can paint. As is the paper delaminated in spots, wait to you get the paper off then you will see the how much really needs repair.

Have you ever skim coated a room ?, what a PITA, the dust is particularly enjoyable, if you chose this make sure you have at least an 18" finishing trowel .

Rock it with 3/8", first finds out why moisture is coming through the wall. If it is an outside wall, remove down to the studs.
And deal with all the baseboard and window trim plus cut out for all the switches and outlets AND have have to tape all the new sheet rock?
No thanks.
Labor wise, skim coating would be 1/3 the labor and 1/5 of the materials cost.
But it's your house and your money...
 
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acer66

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Well, started pulling and the upper part of the wall is drywall and the lower part proper plaster.
Unfortunately removing the wallpaper on the drywall part also removed the drywall paper.
1787698366688.jpeg
 

Ultradog MN

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Well, started pulling and the upper part of the wall is drywall and the lower part proper plaster.
Unfortunately removing the wallpaper on the drywall part also removed the drywall
I have repaired worse than that many times.
I wish there was someone in the Twin Cities that had good camera and video skills and a wall like that to repair. We could collaborate and make a video to post on Youtube.
People here at GJ are SOOO squeamish about taping and mudding.
There are a few tricks - but remember this:
On the totem pole of ALL the skilled trades, roofers and drywall tapers/plasterers sit nearest the bottom.
 
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The Cobbler

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that's certainly repairable as @Ultradog MN has stated. I too have repaired a lot worse than that ( for paint grade) with good results.
the fact you're papering makes the need for perfection a lot less .
start by removing the loose stuff, prime with any kind of paint ( a few coats ) and start to skim coat it.
inch by inch you'll get there with far less work than removing & replacing .
 

pcmeiners

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And deal with all the baseboard and window trim plus cut out for all the switches and outlets AND have have to tape all the new sheet rock?
No thanks.
Labor wise, skim coating would be 1/3 the labor and 1/5 of the materials cost.
But it's your house and your money...
Agree, replacing with 3/8" is more work/expense. Skim coat is Ok but the OP would still have the issue with why the paper delaminated in the first place, there is moisture coming from the wall cavity.
 
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acer66

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I have a lot of drywall tools but never skimmed a wall.

What are the must have good tools I need for this?

I really like the Vancouver Carpenter on YT so I hope he has a video on this.

Or does anyone have a recommendation for a video?
 

jjrbus

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Luan is a generic term that covers many species of wood. Some of them are oily and interfere with any adhesive, likely even drywall mud. Approved underlayments do not have this problem. I vote for 1/4 drywall.
 
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