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Want to replace some power cords. What do you do?

gahrajmahal

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Hey all, I did a search for power tool replacements and did not find a specific “discussion” topic on replacing power cords.

I have two tools specifically, both older than 20 years. My Milwaukee circular saw and my Bosch jig saw.

Is there a specific premium brand you use?

Do you only use manufacturers brand replacement cords?

Is any similar gauge type replacement good enough?

Do you buy bulk wire, purchase specific (please name them, or a link is better) plug ends?

And lastly, what is the best length of cord you like?

No photos right now. These two hard working tools are on the job site where I just noticed “again” I need to replace the cords.

Thanks!
 
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manwithtools

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Buy a decent quality extension cord and cut it to the length you want to replace the power cord. If it has a molded strain relief, you may best served by buying a replacement OEM power cord.
 

toolmiser

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Make sure it is "rubber" jacketed, not vinyl. Always more pleasurable to use especially when it's cold. You might find some deals on ebay, at least more reasonable than OEM. Make sure you get the same gauge wire.
 

tarbellb

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Id buy a spool of 12/2 cable (blk/wht/grn), and avoid any jacket material w/ T in the name.

T= thermal, ie non flexible crappy plastic jacket.

12/2 SJOOW or SEOW SOOW jackets all good.

12g is good for ~20amps
 

iamrfixit

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I use SO cord of the appropriate size and add a high quality cord end like pass & seymour or woodhead. This is also the same way I make most all of my extension cords. You can get quality SO cord with rubber jacket and the ends at any electrical supply. Much more flexible than most oem cords and lasts a very long time.
 

Wamsutta

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As soon as you said "circular saw," I immediately thought of some big cords. You need at least 12AWG to run circular saws. They need the big cords so they can get their voltage. Too small of a cord causes the motor to run hot; shortening the life of the armature windings.
 

JRC3

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As soon as you said "circular saw," I immediately thought of some big cords. You need at least 12AWG to run circular saws. They need the big cords so they can get their voltage. Too small of a cord causes the motor to run hot; shortening the life of the armature windings.

Hmm, yet the stock cord on my Milwaukee worm drive is less than 12. Perhaps Milwaukee should be notified of their mistake. LOL
 
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gahrajmahal

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Well, seems like many are in favor of buying bulk cable or cutting down a high quality extension cord. I almost stuck a “Flexilla “ brand extension cord in the Menards 15% off bag this week. Maybe I can still do that.
 

sparky 1971

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14 years ago I screwed up and cut the cord for my worm drive in half. I wire nutted the two halves together for a temporary fix that has pretty much become permanent. I doubt if they were 14 gauge, probably 16. I know they weren't 12. Don't remember, don't care.

Anyway, back to the original question. You can buy 8' replacement power tool cords. I know Menards carries them, so HD and Lowes probably do to. I believe they are 14 gauge. I bought one a couple of years ago for a drill. The cord was nicked too close to the handle to be able to wire nut it back together.
 

AA/FC

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You can buy appliance / power tool replacement cords at Home Depot.

attachment.php


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bergen-...ance-Power-Tool-Cord-Black-PS615143/304711917
 

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redwrench60

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Go to Home Depot and buy whatever your desired length (sold by the foot) of SJOOW 12 AWG 3 conductor cable and a male three prong 20 Amp cord end. Disassemble the power tool where the cord enters and wire the cable directly in just like the factory one was. Now you have a super tough, flexable, abrasion and water/oil resistant cord as long as you like with a heavy duty end.

I wired my favorite angle grinder with a 25 foot 12AWG cord and my Skil saw with a 50 footer. No dicking with extension cords and accidental unplugging. The 12AWG conductor size does keep the tool performing with longer lengths. Most power tool makers skimp here and use the bare minimum wire gage and short length forcing you to use an extension cord and performance suffers.
 

bonneyman

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Make sure it is "rubber" jacketed, not vinyl. Always more pleasurable to use especially when it's cold. You might find some deals on ebay, at least more reasonable than OEM. Make sure you get the same gauge wire.

Isn't there a blue-sheathed cord that's silicone rubber? I can't remember the brand name at the moment.
 

RTM

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I have previously did the extension cord trick. These were ok if I had the boot.

I recently bought some from ereplacementparts.com.

The ereplacements were an exact fit, came w the boot and all the connectors.
 

Farmall450

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I have previously did the extension cord trick. These were ok if I had the boot.

I recently bought some from ereplacementparts.com.

The ereplacements were an exact fit, came w the boot and all the connectors.

Honestly just cheaper to get a pre-fab 12ga cord unless you're looking for an odd length. :beer:
 

Wamsutta

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Hmm, yet the stock cord on my Milwaukee worm drive is less than 12. Perhaps Milwaukee should be notified of their mistake. LOL

Amps x Volts = Watts; or P = I x E.

10 Amps x 120 Volts = 1200 Watts.

15 Amps x 80 Volts = 1200 Watts

Guess which one will make the motor run the hotter.
 

mike93lx

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Amps x Volts = Watts; or P = I x E.

10 Amps x 120 Volts = 1200 Watts.

15 Amps x 80 Volts = 1200 Watts

Guess which one will make the motor run the hotter.

Huh?

12 is completely unnecessary for the vast majority of hand held power tools, unless you are trying to replace the cord with something long
 
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seber

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I know most people like long cords but I hate them. Anything over six feet gets cut down. I've never found a place where I can use a power tool without an extension cord and that longer cord is just in the way. Four feet lets me put a knot in the cord connection far enough away from the tool to not be a problem. That also is short enough that the cord doesn't get cut or abused by walking on.
 

bugnut

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I salvage the cords off old vacuums that are headed for the trash. Size to the length I want and then install.
Thrifty and it works for me.
 

Skiff Builder

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One tool I like a longer cord on is the circular saw. A 10' length lets you break down full sheet goods without having the cord/ extension cord plugs grab the edge of the sheet and pull on the rear of the saw while cutting.
My Dewalt came stock like this.
 

mike93lx

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One tool I like a longer cord on is the circular saw. A 10' length lets you break down full sheet goods without having the cord/ extension cord plugs grab the edge of the sheet and pull on the rear of the saw while cutting.
My Dewalt came stock like this.

I am a fan of longer cords, especially for tools like a circ saw, for that reason. why drag out an extension cord every single time you use the tool? I can't think of any time I have used a circular saw without needing a longer cord than stock.
 
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gahrajmahal

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One tool I like a longer cord on is the circular saw. A 10' length lets you break down full sheet goods without having the cord/ extension cord plugs grab the edge of the sheet and pull on the rear of the saw while cutting.
My Dewalt came stock like this.

This is what I am thinking too. My Fein multitool has what must be a 10 ft. Cord and I always appreciate that I can plug it into an outlet and reach very far into a room. Currently the rooms I am working on have two of three walls demolished with the original outlets hanging by their romex. I lean cut boards and supplies against the walls covering up some of the room’s outlets. The long cord of this tool comes in handy.

Oh, and my extension cord? The homeowners decided they no longer liked the tile floor in the kitchen, so they hired a local person to tear out the floor. My extension cord is now powering the refrigerator sitting in the living room. Previously it was in the basement powering his newly installed WiFi setup.

Keep em coming, I will post my solution once I get the time to replace them.
 
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gahrajmahal

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Bert_

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Id buy a spool of 12/2 cable (blk/wht/grn), and avoid any jacket material w/ T in the name.

T= thermal, ie non flexible crappy plastic jacket.

12/2 SJOOW or SEOW SOOW jackets all good.

12g is good for ~20amps

12/2 will only get you a black and white in cord. Need 12/3 if you want ground. You count all the insulated conductors. Ground included.

Amps x Volts = Watts; or P = I x E.

10 Amps x 120 Volts = 1200 Watts.

15 Amps x 80 Volts = 1200 Watts

Guess which one will make the motor run the hotter.

The cord on a power tool is so short it doesn't matter what gauge you use. #16 is good for most. #14 will run anything that plugs into a normal outlet.

No way would I put #12 on a tool. To much bulk for no reason at all.
 
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bonneyman

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Honestly just cheaper to get a pre-fab 12ga cord unless you're looking for an odd length. :beer:

Back in the day I used this tool repair service for power tool repairs and all, and had them install new cords whenever I sent in something for bearing changes or trigger replacement. (Of course that's when power tools were worth repairing). Their prices were good, and they had Bonney tools for sale, so, I visited often.:lol_hitti

Anyways, I had them install 12 foot 3-prong cords on drills instead of the typical 2 foot. That way I could walk all around an A/C rooftop unit with the drill plugged into the disconnect with a widow maker. No batteries to run out, no bulky extension cord to mess with, and the ground prong helped keep them plugged in even if the tool wasn't originally a grounded tool. Worked like a charm.
 

Farmall450

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I have looked at these at HD and Lowe’s. They seem stiff and have small gauge wire. My saw’s cord is nice and whippy. The one you linked to is 14ga. And 6 ft. Long. All so far are made in China. Might as well go to harbor freight and save some $$.

The Woods brand ones at Farm & Fleet seem nice.
 

JRC3

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The cord on a power tool is so short it doesn't matter what gauge you use. #16 is good for most. #14 will run anything that plugs into a normal outlet.

Yep, we're talking about an 8' power cord, not a 100' extension cord. I'm pretty sure Skill and Milwaukee know what they are doing when they put 14ga cords on their saws.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/p...PhPLdoSbdRxuDvW0e0I3AqyK9E8ynAgcaAr2cEALw_wcB
https://www.ereplacementparts.com/cord-set-p-127402.html
 

Parrothead

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One tool I like a longer cord on is the circular saw. A 10' length lets you break down full sheet goods without having the cord/ extension cord plugs grab the edge of the sheet and pull on the rear of the saw while cutting.

My Dewalt came stock like this.

I have an older DeWalt circular saw, and am definitely going to make this switch. Good advice and logic!

I have swapped out the cords on my wet/dry vacs, because you always need more length when those are out. I put a 25’ on my Ridgid and a 10’ on my little portable.

Edit. It’s 50’ and 25’
 
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JRC3

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I put longer cords on my drywall screw gun. Also my propane torpedo heater, came with a stubby. Who wants to need an extension cord and then deal with too much cord in the way?

For those low amp items I just buy one of these and cut the female end off. https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-15-...op-Extension-Cord-Black-SJTW16315BL/206586942


Scroll down in the 'product overview' for that cord...Why does it say "Airflow: 343 CFM." :confused:
 

MJO

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If it's just an issue near the tool I usually just shorten the cord and inch and redo the connections, otherwise I have a pile of cord from power tools that I got from a job where we removed them to hard wire the motors to a machine.
 

manwithtools

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As soon as you said "circular saw," I immediately thought of some big cords. You need at least 12AWG to run circular saws. They need the big cords so they can get their voltage. Too small of a cord causes the motor to run hot; shortening the life of the armature windings.

That's ridiculous, voltage drop only becomes a concern when you have LONG cords - think 50' - 100'. You are not putting a 50 foot cord on a power tool directly. Furthermore, I doubt you could get a 12-3 cord in the opening in the tool. There is a reason manufacturers use 14 -16 ga cords on the tool itself, there is minimal to no voltage drop across 10' - 12' of cord. Anything heavier than 14 for the tool cord is simply a waste of money.

For long extension cords, it's a different matter and a heavier cord (12ga) is great for anything over 50'.
 
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manwithtools

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Well, seems like many are in favor of buying bulk cable or cutting down a high quality extension cord. I almost stuck a “Flexilla “ brand extension cord in the Menards 15% off bag this week. Maybe I can still do that.

Many times the extension cord is cheaper than bulk cable and a plug that you makeup on your own.
 

larry_g

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X3 here on the ereplacementparts site. The factory cords come with the proper strain relief and are stripped to the correct length with proper terminals on them.

On edit; Some OSHA inspectors will not allow tools with field replacement cord caps. This then requires factory cords. I fix tools for my sons construction business and he has been dinged for having replacement cord caps. So a factory replacement cord it is.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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tarbellb

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12/2 will only get you a black and white in cord. Need 12/3 if you want ground. You count all the insulated conductors. Ground included.



The cord on a power tool is so short it doesn't matter what gauge you use. #16 is good for most. #14 will run anything that plugs into a normal outlet.

No way would I put #12 on a tool. To much bulk for no reason at all.

I stand corrected, I was thinking of solid/romex.

And yes, you can definitely get away with 14/16g depending on which tool. 12g will cover everything no questions asked.
 

RTM

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No one has mentioned it yet, you can buy replacement cord protectors:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E441OLM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Yes, those are nice, but what size are they? Fricking lack of specs. I just bought some on a gamble, and the ID is larger than my cord, so a sloppy fit. Just tell us they for 16/3 or 18/2 wiring, give us a clue!

I plan to comment w ID on the cable and approx size on the tool end.
 
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