Wanting to flush a ******-What do I need?

[BigK600]

The transmission is acting up on my 96 Chrysler T&C. I want to change all of the ****** fluid on it. Would something like this pump out all of the fluid? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947836000P?keyword=47836&sLevel=0 Or is that just used to pump fluids out of the dipstick hole? I dont have any experience with this type of stuff thanks.

 

[jerk_chicken]

The problem is most of the fluid is in the convertor and the various channels and solenoids, plus the check valve controlled passages. You might be able to get a small amount out that goes into the sump. When I changed my fluid, I used to do a change three times to hope that I could get about 75-80% new fluid in there, 1-2 weeks driving spent between each change.

 

[rsanter]

drop the pan, replace the filter and drain the converter.
that will get most of it replaced

you may want to price having a trans shop do this. generally not too much, just be sure it includes them draining the converter

bob

 

[engineboy]

The torque converter and other internal passages hold a ton of fluid and without using a machine that allows the front pump (while the car is running) to work and transfer fluid out of these areas it will usually only get about 1/3 of the fluid from the trans.

Most cars anymore dont have a fluid drain in the converter.

One of those machines is very expensive, and usually only a shop will have one.

In my experience as a tech, by the time an auto trans has shown you its having problems (slipping/chugging/whatever) it is already too late. A trans service isnt going to help.

Not sayting its junk, just saying dont get your hopes up.

What color is the fluid?

 

[peteco]

Chrysler minivan transmissions are very sensitive to fluid type and heat.

When I had my Dodge Caravan this site was very helpful:

www.allpar.com/forums/index.php?showforum=16

Lot's of discussion about transmission issues. Typically they recommend dropping the pan and replacing the filter. Then reassemble and fill with fluid. Then remove transmission fluid hose from transmission cooler and run engine to pump fluid out of the torque converter. You need to be careful not to run the transmission "dry". Search the site to find better directions than I gave you.

They also recommend NEVER using a transmission flush machine on these transmissions. And no matter what anyone says USE CHRYSLER TRANSMISSION FLUID: ATF-4

If you don't have an external transmission cooler you might want to install one (see site for recommendations).

 

[bowlofturtle]

yea i normally look at the fluids and judging by the condition i make up my mind on how many trans fluid oil changes i need to do. normally I do 2 oil changes and put about a 2 week interval between them. I think my method should be good for about 40% of the fluids replaced.

assuming most trans are 10qt, most drain and fills take about 3-5qt,( i've seen about 4qt everyone i've done) so you get about 40% of new fluids in. It then mixes with the older fluids and so when you do it again, your draining out some newer and some older making the total mix about 45% new.

these are all numbers i'm just making out of my **** but i think they have somewhat realistic values to them


please use recommended fluids and not mobil 1, royal purple stuff. the CHRYSLER trans are really picky. i learned that after doing a mitsu trans...

 

[Danglerb]

What I have heard is that some car models were made to have one of the machines "cycle" the trans fluid, but in general they are a BAD choice for other cars where you need to drop the pan, change the filter and drain the converter.

Unless the ****** is obviously toast changing the fluid and filter is a good cheap first diagnostic check.

 

[Mike83]

The problem is most of the fluid is in the convertor and the various channels and solenoids, plus the check valve controlled passages. You might be able to get a small amount out that goes into the sump. When I changed my fluid, I used to do a change three times to hope that I could get about 75-80% new fluid in there, 1-2 weeks driving spent between each change.

Did you use a new filter and pan gasket each time? That could get expensive. I am planning to do a drain and filter soon, and would prefer your method to change most of the fluid, but I don't want to spend $180 on new gaskets and filters.

 

[janarvae]

Did you use a new filter and pan gasket each time? That could get expensive. I am planning to do a drain and filter soon, and would prefer your method to change most of the fluid, but I don't want to spend $180 on new gaskets and filters.

If you get a nice, rubber Fel-Pro gasket, you can use it over and over again. If you get the cork pan gasket, that's only good for one use!!! You also don't have to drop the pan. You can buy a siphon hand pump from Harbor Freight and pump out the contents of the pan. Then pour in what you took out. Repeat as often as mentioned above.

 

[jerk_chicken]

Did you use a new filter and pan gasket each time? That could get expensive. I am planning to do a drain and filter soon, and would prefer your method to change most of the fluid, but I don't want to spend $180 on new gaskets and filters.

Nope, old Audi. It used a cleanable filter and the pan gasket was basically half of an o-ring and reusable as well. The trans dipstick also went directly into the pan, so all I needed to do was unlock the collar nut and drain after the first time.

 

[Mike83]

Thanks, I think what I'll do is drop the pan, replace the factory gasket with Fel-Pro, fill back up and run for a couple weeks, then use a siphon pump to change out fluid. There's no dipstick on my car (Alero) just a fill tube. I need to use the overflow drain to check the fluid level.

Need to do the same with her car (Impala). I imagine it is similar in design.

 

[Stephenw]

Here's how to DIY the job...

Remove the pan, dump the fluid, change the filter, reinstall. Fill it with fluid.

Fluid returning to the transmission (from the torque converter) goes to the transmission cooler before it is returned to the pan. Disconnect the return line from the cooler (usually the bottom line). Use a little thought and figure a way to hook a hose from the return side of the cooler to a drain pan. Run the engine and dump 6 to 8 quarts from the cooler return line into the drain pan while adding makeup fluid down a funnel into the dipstick tube. Be careful not to run it dry or to overfill it.

This will get most of the fluid.

As was already stated, if the transmission is already acting up, it is toast. You can often postpone its inevitable demise by adding in some of the "transmission repair in can". This may work a day, six months, or not at all.

 

[rocketman]

Find a place with a BG machine. You'll need 16 quarts of fluid for the complete job. Just like getting a new trans!!! (sometimes)

 

[BigK600]

I already dropped the pan and replaced the filter topped it off with new fluid, did this about three weeks ago. The fluid was not is good shape, probably had about 50,000 miles since the last fluid change. It helped some, but only got out about a third of the fluid out. I'd like to get all the fluid out, but maybe its just easier to drop the pan and replace again. I thought maybe there was a better way, hence thats why I was looking at a fluid evacuater. Thanks for the input.

 

[charlie_nj]

Here's how to DIY the job...

Remove the pan, dump the fluid, change the filter, reinstall. Fill it with fluid.

Fluid returning to the transmission (from the torque converter) goes to the transmission cooler before it is returned to the pan. Disconnect the return line from the cooler (usually the bottom line). Use a little thought and figure a way to hook a hose from the return side of the cooler to a drain pan. Run the engine and dump 6 to 8 quarts from the cooler return line into the drain pan while adding makeup fluid down a funnel into the dipstick tube. Be careful not to run it dry or to overfill it.

This will get most of the fluid.

.

I've used this method successfully. It can be messy and wastes some fluid, but the results are good.

 

[Treeman]

BigK,

If you are the frugal type, you can buy this poopy evacuator pump from Sears for under $15. It will get the job done, but it's slow. I threw mine away after a few uses.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947647000P?sid=I0084400010000100600&aff=Y

Pump the sump out thru the dipstick. Install new fluid. THEN FOLLOW THE ABOVE ADVICE TO GO TO ALLPAR AND FOLLOW THEIR STEP BY STEP METHOD TO DO THE "COOLER LINE FLUSH".

It's super easy and gets most of the fluid exchanged. The 41TE ****** was very troublesome in the '90s and many band aid fixes failed to correct design flaws...supposedly fixed in the 2000 generation.

The cooler line hoses enter the ****** side by side on the front. The "left" one closest to the engine is the return line.

Most people don't realize that the better ****** flush machines (T-Tech) use the car's ****** to exchange the fluid. There is no pressure flush involved. The machine just feeds the new fluid in as the ****** pushes it out.

http://www.asedeals.com/ttech_fluid_exchanger.html

You can do the same thru the cooler line for the cost of the fluid.

 

[bchee]

This is what you will need. Sorry, I just couldn't resist.

 

[z28toz06]

This is what you will need. Sorry, I just couldn't resist.

 

[Merkava_4]

Most cars anymore don't have a fluid drain in the converter.

That's the answer to my question I haven't asked yet.

 

[kythri]

Hrmmm...

Do you folks really need a machine to flush your fluid? On my Explorer, I just disconnect the return line off of the cooler, put it into a bucket, started the engine, and add new fluid via the dipstick/fill tube as the old stuff pumps out. When it starts pumping out clean fluid, I know I'm done.

It's always best to have a friend there helping, so we can quickly shut off the engine if things get too far ahead...

Dropping the pan only gets part of the fluid out.

 

[BigK600]

Ok thanks for all the help and suggestions. I think my best plan is to first just drop the pan and replace with new fluid and filter. Then see how it works. Depending on how the transmisson works, I might try disconnecting the transmission cooler lines and running the engine while adding in new fluid down the dip stick pipe.
BTW, the van has 315,000 miles on it and a new transmission installed at around 80,000 miles so the current transmission has about 235,000 miles on it. The problem I am haveing is that that transmission does not go into gear when it is cold. I have to wait for it to warm up, then the transmission works fine. A couple years ago I had this problem I changed the transmission fluid and the thing shifted into gear even when cold.

 

[Danglerb]

Take it easy on how much you drain on the flush cycles - I'd go 2 quarts max; if memory serves me correctly that 41TE trans is about 12 qts max, going 4-6 quarts down will almost certainly do some damage to the pump and/or converter.

If you start seeing a lot of metal or brown/gray clutch material coming out with the flush, stop what you're doing on the flush -- it's time to call Aamco.

Its "never" time to aamco.

 

[dps]

Here's a good how-to thread on this from another forum:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...um-1999/154002-transmission-fluid-change.html

 

[kythri]

Ok thanks for all the help and suggestions. I think my best plan is to first just drop the pan and replace with new fluid and filter. Then see how it works. Depending on how the transmisson works, I might try disconnecting the transmission cooler lines and running the engine while adding in new fluid down the dip stick pipe.

Personally, I'd drop the pan and replace the filter AFTER flushing the fluid...

If you do the pan/filter first, you're running all that dirty fluid through the clean filter.

Conversely, you're running clean fluid through the dirty filter if you do the pan last.

 

[Tarheelgarage]

Go to your local Dodge Chrysler dealer and have them order a pan gasket for your 41TE ******.

Yes, there is a 4X reuseable ****** pan gasket that is available for that ******, it costs about $35 and is well worth it. The aftermarket gaskets tend to leak due to overtightening.

Here's the Mopar part number: 05011115AA. Bolt torque value: 165 in/lb

Now, if you go to the parts counter and just ask for the gasket without giving the number, they will look at you like you have a 3rd eye and tell you that Mopar has never made a gasket for that ******. I went in one time and the parts counter guy said he had over 25 years selling Mopar parts and swore they never made a gasket for that ******. I wagered a bet that if he was wrong, I would get 20% off my price.... well, when he entered the part number in his computer, his face turned beet red......and I got my 20% discount. That was the last time he ever bet with me...

The gasket is pricey, but very well made with steel and rubber and worth it IMHO

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

If you start seeing a lot of metal or brown/gray clutch material coming out with the flush, stop what you're doing on the flush -- it's time to call Aamco.

UGH. NO. If you see plaque and the like, call your local independent well known and respected shop - help keep the little guys like me in business.

Adam

 

[yellowbox]

if you decide to disconnect line to help flush fluid out remember.....it comes out faster than you think it will ....

 

[jerk_chicken]

if you decide to disconnect line to help flush fluid out remember.....it comes out faster than you think it will ....

I was going to say that. We did this in a class in HS and it really didn't work out well at all. Had to shut the engine down a couple times.