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Warming garage floor

GMCAMARO

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Jul 29, 2007
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120
Location
Near Worcester, MA
I have a 3 bay garage, Which I do a lot of automotive work in.
The garage goes thru a lot of propane because the floor is so cold. Are there any cost effective ways to insulate the slab?:dunno:
 
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derkperk

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Feb 3, 2016
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A ceiling hung radiant tube heater would be an improvement. Not sure any other way to insulate once installed. The slab will always be cold without tube in it.

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UpNorther

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Jan 20, 2016
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318
Location
Brainerd, MN
I have a small woodshop I went thru the same problem with. My woodshop is only 230 sq ft and using 2- 1800w heaters wouldnt warm it past 45 degrees. I ended up putting a 3/8" foil back fanfold polystyrene insulation on it and duct taping the seams. I take it out every spring/install back every fall. Since installing, I just run 1 heater at halfway to keep it at 50 and turn up when I want to.
The stuff is kinda fragile and I'd wouldn't use it around any area subject to sparks/embers, or open flames though.

here's the link so you can get an idea.

http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...451015221-c-5778.htm?tid=-2204605088240108717

After looking, if you go to my Pole Barn thread, post #8 you can see it on my floor. Its 4 years old in the pic.
 
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derkperk

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Feb 3, 2016
Messages
108
Putting tile in a 3 bay garage would be serious. Also crazy slippery when wet. Watch that electric meter spin with the grid installed.
I kinda like the race deck idea. It would feel warmer being you wouldn't touch the actual concrete but you would still burn the same amount of propane as there is no R valve to the stuff.

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Slowgsr

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Nov 14, 2014
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Location
Southern ontario
A ceiling hung radiant tube heater would be an improvement. Not sure any other way to insulate once installed. The slab will always be cold without tube in it.

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This is all I have for heat. My floor stays warm. Heat from fall 24/7
 

James-W

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Feb 3, 2013
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12,432
Location
Southeastern Wisconsin
I have Racedeck on my garage floor and I have a Hot Dawg heater mounted on the ceiling in one corner. The hot air blows downward and across to the opposite end of the garage. With the Racedeck on the floor I find it is less cold that it is with the bare concrete. Don't get me wrong, it is still a bit on the chilly side, but nowhere near as bad as with the bare concrete. But keep in mind that I keep the garage at 50 degrees all the time, unless I am working out there and then I turn it up to 70 degrees.
 

malibu101

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Jul 1, 2005
Messages
3,908
Location
Walnutport PA
I heat my drafty garage with a kerosene torpedo.
Anyway, it will easily get to 70-80 on the thermometer at head level.
However, when laying under a car it is cold. Never checked temps there.

Heat rises.
I put in a ceiling fan a few years ago and now push air down. It's not a radiant heat floor but it's much improved.
 

493 scamp

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Aug 9, 2012
Messages
284
Location
Kirkwood,Illinois
I had a shop to do after hours repairs on the side that I didnt heat unless I was there working. No matter how long I worked or how hot I heated it the floor was cold. I dont think you can use part time heat with concrete floor because it takes so long to heat the mass. My feet would ache every time I worked there in the winter. In the summer you could leave the door shut and be fairly cool with a fan unless you had weeks of very hot weather.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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Location
SE MI
If you are siting on the floor or on your back under a car, use 4 or more layers of DRY cardboard.

If you have an area where you stand a lot (by your work bench) use heavy duty anti-fatigue mats or build yourself a "floor" using 3/4" on top of 1x2 "sleepers".

If you are working on brakes/front suspension, consider jacking the vehicle up an extra 12" and using extra tall jack stands. When you can use one of those low mechanic's seats on casters.
 

astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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Location
Mid_Michigan
If you are siting on the floor or on your back under a car, use 4 or more layers of DRY cardboard.

If you have an area where you stand a lot (by your work bench) use heavy duty anti-fatigue mats or build yourself a "floor" using 3/4" on top of 1x2 "sleepers".

If you are working on brakes/front suspension, consider jacking the vehicle up an extra 12" and using extra tall jack stands. When you can use one of those low mechanic's seats on casters.

Right now I am working on my '56 wagon on the cold side of my shop. I put down those cheap Harbor Freight foam utility mats. The ones that link together. Keeps the cold from the floor from soaking into my bones... :)
Mark
 

Nexussian

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Mar 12, 2014
Messages
639
Location
Alaska
Insulate after it's poured?

Not that I'm aware of.

If you are willing to consider a floor covering with heat coils beneath, check what it would cost to put heat pipes over the floor and float something, perhaps hydraulic cement over them.

Perhaps you could have a thin layer of some sort of thermal break beneath that.

If you can keep that combination to 2" or less additional floor height, it may be worth that effort.

A small water heater and a pump could warm the floor, I wouldn't expect much over 50° F, but that beats the **** out of 32°. ;)

Constant heat is a much easier method to keep the floor warm, even 45° F would make a difference.

As others have mentioned, having something to stand or lay upon makes a big difference.

I've found cardboard with 2 layers of corrugations works well for me, 3 gets too stiff and 1 is too flimsy as well as not insulating worth a darn.
 
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mikeyr

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Sep 16, 2005
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Santa Barbara, CA
Racedeck absolutely helped out my garage. The concrete under it is still cold of course but it seemed to insulate it and keep the garage more stable. At my old garage, the laundry area was out in the garage and my wife loved it, said she could do the laundry barefoot anytime and not freeze her toes off. I am sure its not a lot of help but it is some help. In my new garage with good wall/ceiling insulation, I am not sure how much the Racedeck helps but from my experience with the old garage, I know it is some.
 

jmarkwolf

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Jan 15, 2013
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1,812
Location
Southeast Michigan
Don't know about the surface of the floor, but a ceiling fan makes a big improvement in the air near the floor.

My new 28ft x 30ft detached garage shop had a distinct temperature gradient at the belt line. Above the belt was nice and toasty, below the belt was cold.

I put in a high efficiency ceiling fan from Lowes, at the suggestion of members on this forum and it mad a big difference.

I run it on slow 24 hours (anything faster and it will sweep the floor from 10ft up), the ceiling hung furnace is kept at 55degF (minimum recommended by the furnace maker) unless I'm out there.

Keeps the air moving and heat more uniform. Makes a huge difference.
 

KDXSR5

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May 17, 2015
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Location
Wyoming
I don't have a real answer to your question, but after reading this thread, I can't believe how hot some people keep their garage/shop. My family's shop is kept at 45 degrees F all winter, and that is warm enough for long sleeve shirts if working while standing; hoodie if working on the ground. As long as the doors are kept shut, it isn't a big deal. Continue with the real advice gents.
 

VTDon

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Feb 10, 2016
Messages
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Location
Vermont
Gmcarmaro, I have the same issue here in VT. In hind sight wished I had insulated the floor slab and concrete walls when built 20 years ago. The balance of construction including doors are insulated best possible.

The concrete and surrounding ledge is a mammoth heat sink. On warm summer days I run fans to circulate fresh, 70 plus degree air. By Sept. the concrete is warm to the touch. Even this morning at below zero the unheated garage is 35 degrees.
 

Gooch

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May 30, 2009
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676
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Petersberg, IA
You can dig the exterior of the foundation and apply ridgid foam board to below the frost line. You'll need to pump heat in to heat the earth below the slab but once that's done should require minimal energy input.
 

NUTTSGT

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Sep 14, 2009
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Northern Central Ohio
My floor stay pretty warm but my garage is fully insulated and heated 2 out of 3 days. This allows heat to build up in the floor and act as a large heat sink.

If you can't heat it on a regular basis, try to use some cardboard like mentioned above. Another option to use is grab a large piece of office style carpet and lay it down.
 

Denwood

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Sep 22, 2014
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Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
If you can give up some height, an insulated over pour will work. We went with 2" EPS, foil backed bubble and 2" of new concrete over existing.

cinevate2.jpg


cinevate1.jpg
 

Nexussian

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Alaska
If you can give up some height, an insulated over pour will work. We went with 2" EPS, foil backed bubble and 2" of new concrete over existing.

Dennis, that's awesome, thank you for the pictures. :beer:

Do you have any pictures from closer, or a selection of the pieces arranged as a cross section?

If I am understanding your description, that would be 3 1/2" - 4" of additional floor height from the top of the old floor height, to the top of the new one.

I ask as there are several people I know that have considered that, but hesitate because they've never seen it done. :(

While I'm asking, how do you like it, and what would you do differently if you did another? (no fair saying "have it installed on the first go")
 

Denwood

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Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
Yes, a 4" change in height from the old floor to new. We had 9 1/2 foot ceilings so this was not an issue. I don't have a cross section pic, but we did take s lot of video during the retrofit net zero build.

The install was simple. 2" EPS was laid down, followed by foil backed bubble insulation, 8"x8" steel mesh, and the PEX held in place with plastic clips that were pushed into the foam. 2" of concrete was added after.

In our loading bay, we cut out the 2" EPS foam out where the pallet rack feet were to be bolted down, and left these patches free if PEX as well. So in these few areas there was 4" of concrete.

Things we would do differently:

1. Eliminate the bubble insulation. It's likely a waste of money, and much of it was damaged by walking on it during the install.

2. Forget trying to pigment the concrete...light grey. That was a fail, and we had to do an EpoxyShield epoxy coat (the solvent based 75% solids stuff) for the 4800 sq/ft slab. We could have used a white mix like the sidewalks use here, and just polished it after.

It's been four yrs since, with heavy use including moving pallets, pallet jacks etc. and a few weeks with some very heavy hydraulic carts/lifts used in construction. Zero issues.

In terms of the radiant, it's a good choice for the loading bay zone, however given that we had to install air handlers for AC and fresh air, not sure I would spend the money on radiant just for heating. As it is, the floor is there as a thermal mass for the next phase adding solar water heating and PV panels to take us net zero.
 

mikeyr

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Sep 16, 2005
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Santa Barbara, CA
I can't believe how hot some people keep their garage/shop. My family's shop is kept at 45 degrees F all winter, and that is warm enough for long sleeve.
45 is Parka weather for us Californian's :)
I have my setback t-stat at 55 during the nights and when I am not in the garage, walk in and immediately punch it from freezing 55 to luke warm temp of 65.

Seriously, if I am working in the garage I don't mind the cooler 55 temp, but I am just sitting there reloading and not moving around much, I like it warmer.
 

mustangfan

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Jul 3, 2011
Messages
49
I have a workshop that I put down used carpet in it to work on. It works pretty good while working on cars. It won't "warm" the cement, but it will keep you a little warmer while working on it. After a couple years, I throw it out and look for another carpet. If you talk to the carpet installers, lots of times you can get them for nothing!!
 
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