water absorb test. take 2 witb pictures

[BabaGanoosh]

Water absorbs in worst spots in 50 minutes. Does this pass for epoxy application? Thanks.

 

[Shea]

In short, no.

 

[BabaGanoosh]

Thanks. What is time requirement then? I am using Legacy Primer and it is water based and it will be down permanently. Why isn't 50 minutes for water to absorb reasonable? Thanks again.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Baba, there is no specific time limit. Surface tension also plays a roll. Try acid etching these suspect areas.


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[BabaGanoosh]

Thanks. I also used up four gallons of HD 821. Good stuff, and it covered all the 2x4's about half inch deep. However, I still have some perimeter wall that needs leveling caulk before I can epoxy. If I don't caulk it, the epoxy will run into the seam between the wall and floor and be wasted. Can I use Sikaflex for these perimeter walls?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

That or bondo. Dap actually makes a good concrete filler for the perimeter as well.




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[BabaGanoosh]

Excellent. Thanks. I will give them a go!

 

[Trey T]

I wouldn't use bondo because this material is too brittle when hardened its strength is quite questionable.

Scotty: don't you have some epoxy that's made for concrete filler?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Yes, but he is in a time crunch.

 

[BabaGanoosh]

So, regarding water absorbtion, I kept grinding. The worst spots are now the best and the floor is in great shape for taking a bond. Regarding filler, I have not decided yet.

 

[jaye944]

Hey there sorry to hijack,

on mine, I have a "thin" crack in the floor, which has not moved or got bigger in 6 years or since prepping

and also the perimeter of the walls and floor looks a bit messy where they join.

Can/should I use a concrete crack filler and use the same where the walls and floors join

thanks

That or bondo. Dap actually makes a good concrete filler for the perimeter as well.




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[LegacyIndustrial]

Dap is good for the perimeter as there is no traffic.
If it's only one thin crack down the middle, bondo.

Again our preference is a real epoxy filler/sealer.

 

[jaye944]

Thanks man,

yeah its ike really thin (see the attached)
now when you say Bondo, you mean car filler?

Thanks again and sorry for the hijack

Dap is good for the perimeter as there is no traffic.
If it's only one thin crack down the middle, bondo.

Again our preference is a real epoxy filler/sealer.

 

[pima67]

I had a thin crack like that and I filled it with some thinset (for tile setting) that I had on hand. It was easy to push into the crack and level out with a sponge. After putting 2 part epoxy on the floor the crack was not visible. I didn't worry about the crack getting bigger since is was in a post tensioned slab.

 

[BabaGanoosh]

No problem on the hijack, Jaye. I just finished and used SikaFlex along the perimeter. I want it level for appearance but it won't get even full body weight on it let alone the weight of a car. I used the "real stuff" HD 821in traffic areas, but I ran out. I am optimistic about the results. Also, I chose not to fill where the slab meets the back wall. I will be using vinyl moulding along the wall (cove moulding?) which will cover the seam so I saw no reason to fill it.

 

[BabaGanoosh]

I lay primer tomorrow and have three more questions. 1) can I use gorilla tape instead of doing a scribe line under the garage door? Has anyone seen that work? 2) Is there some reason why I should paint the walls before I epoxy the floor? Can't I just paint the walls later?, 3) when I "cut in" the primer I do that first, right? And then I do the body of the floor with the squeegee and roller? It seems if I don't cut in first I will be walking across the epoxy. Thanks for enduring all the newbie questions (now if I could just figure out how to open that can of paint). ((Joking)).

 

[jaye944]

thankxs all,

baba, I'm doing the side walls as well as the floor in epoxy;
when I say side walls I mean, there is some prt of the wall, say about 6 inc' which then
meets the drywall, so that is going to be painted, so all I need do is mask the drywall

in your case; yes, cut in the edges then the body, same as you would paint any other thing, door, wall, etc

IMHO

 

[Trey T]

Yes. That's the only Bondo body filler I know. It's not meant to fill any thicker than 1/8" on autobody.

Thanks man,

yeah its ike really thin (see the attached)
now when you say Bondo, you mean car filler?

Thanks again and sorry for the hijack

 

[jaye944]

thankxs trey

Yes. That's the only Bondo body filler I know. It's not meant to fill any thicker than 1/8" on autobody.

 

[retfr8flyr]

I lay primer tomorrow and have three more questions. 1) can I use gorilla tape instead of doing a scribe line under the garage door? Has anyone seen that work? 2) Is there some reason why I should paint the walls before I epoxy the floor? Can't I just paint the walls later?, 3) when I "cut in" the primer I do that first, right? And then I do the body of the floor with the squeegee and roller? It seems if I don't cut in first I will be walking across the epoxy. Thanks for enduring all the newbie questions (now if I could just figure out how to open that can of paint). ((Joking)).

You should do any cutting in first but I didn't really have to do any cutting in, as far as the edges of the walls go. I cut in around some things and in some small areas but when you start applying you will find that just pushing the squeegee close to the edge of the wall works. There is a small wave created at the edge of the squeegee and you can work it right up to the edge of the wall. At least that's the way it worked out for me when I did my garage.

 

[BabaGanoosh]

Thanks. No primer today. I cut a scribe line, painted walls and now have to vacuum the floor again. Try tomorrow. I ABSOLUTELY should have painted walls and cut scribe before grinding floor. Sheesh. Slow go when you dont know.

 

[chiplee]

Thanks. No primer today. I cut a scribe line, painted walls and now have to vacuum the floor again. Try tomorrow. I ABSOLUTELY should have painted walls and cut scribe before grinding floor. Sheesh. Slow go when you dont know.

So how did it go? I'm curious why people suggest painting walls before applying epoxy? I planned to do it the other way around, but I'm adding baseboard trim and didn't want to be power washing right against it.

 

[jaye944]

So how did it go? I'm curious why people suggest painting walls before applying epoxy? I planned to do it the other way around, but I'm adding baseboard trim and didn't want to be power washing right against it.

usually when decorating; you work from top to bottom; ceiling, walls, floor.
I suppose thats to stop drips and mess etc.

I'm painting 6" of the wall to floor area, after I epoxy the floor, sealing the perimer with the epoxy; hope thats not gonna cause me any probs

 

[chiplee]

usually when decorating; you work from top to bottom; ceiling, walls, floor.
I suppose thats to stop drips and mess etc.

I'm painting 6" of the wall to floor area, after I epoxy the floor, sealing the perimer with the epoxy; hope thats not gonna cause me any probs

Meh, I figure that's what drop cloths are for. I mean the floors are already done when you repaint a room in your house, and in many cases those floors are much more valuable and less stain resistant than any garage floor.

I didn't want to pressure wash concrete adjacent to new baseboard trim. In a garage I think if you have the opportunity to get the floor down first and then do the finish work on the walls you can save yourself a lot of masking trouble.

 

[jaye944]

i suppose a garage is a different kettle of fish

Meh, I figure that's what drop cloths are for. I mean the floors are already done when you repaint a room in your house, and in many cases those floors are much more valuable and less stain resistant than any garage floor.

I didn't want to pressure wash concrete adjacent to new baseboard trim. In a garage I think if you have the opportunity to get the floor down first and then do the finish work on the walls you can save yourself a lot of masking trouble.