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Water and Septic in same trench

DigitalFusion

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Joined
Jun 24, 2008
Messages
110
Location
Minnesota
I can do it here according to our code, as long as the sewer is pressure tested to 5 PSI for 15 mins. However, I would like to know if there is anything I can put on the seams of each 4" sewer pipe (Sched 40 solid PVC) for a lil extra piece of mind? Is there any goop out there I can slop on each connection?
 
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kbs2244

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Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
Are you talking the white PVC sewer pipe?
You can use the same adhisive they use when running it indoors.
It come in color coded formulas for different temps when you are installing it,
but it is all the same after cureing.
 

rsanter

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Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,521
Location
visalia ca
how about getting some plastic root barrier material and puting it in the gap between the pipes before backfilling the trench?

bob
 
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D

DigitalFusion

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2008
Messages
110
Location
Minnesota
Are you talking the white PVC sewer pipe?
You can use the same adhisive they use when running it indoors.
It come in color coded formulas for different temps when you are installing it,
but it is all the same after cureing.

Yeah, schedule 40 PVC. I have the primer and the cement, but I was wondering if there is any caulk-like goop I can smear around each joint for added sealing.

how about getting some plastic root barrier material and puting it in the gap between the pipes before backfilling the trench?

The water pipe will be about 7 feet down, and the sewer pipe will be about 1 foot down. There is quite a vertical distance between the two.
 

tdkkart

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Joined
Jun 17, 2006
Messages
6,887
Location
Eastern Iowa
A couple items to ease your mind a bit:
There is(should) seldom more than a couple ounces of anything in the sewer line, 99% of in flows out to your septic tank or main within seconds of being released. This is why you can get away with the line only being 1ft under the ground.

Your water feed line is constantly pressurized to 50psi or more, the chances of getting anything into it are slim and none.

That said, if you want a tiny bit of piece of mind, standard silicone sealer smeared around each joint after assembly will survive just fine underground.
 
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tfi racing

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Joined
Apr 19, 2008
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2,907
Location
Cedar,BC
Would it be a good idea or permissable to put a backflow or check valve in the water line before it leaves the house?
 

madjack

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Joined
Jun 18, 2008
Messages
296
Location
black hills of south dakota
Don't know about Mn, but here in S.D.we have to have the sewer under the potable water line 36" min. and the use of Sced. 40 is not allowed. Blue brute for water larger than 4" and any line must be sced 80 or metalic (soft copper works) The sewerline must be 4" green brute Might want to check your codes
 

rickairmedic

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Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
4,165
Location
louisville ,Ky
I will add if you clean/prime and glue the joints in the PVC well enough theres isnt any need for a secondary seal. Make sure when you put the fittings together you twist them slightly and hold them for a minute otherwise they could slide back aapart from the pressure . I will also add I use sched 40 PVC for Flue pipes on 90% and above furnces and those pipes have to hold not only moisture but also Flue Gases which I can assure you are more likely to leak than water or doodoo :D is.


Rick
 

sberry

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Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
I agree with the post above, this is way over thought. That pipe glued would hold 100# and how is it going to get in a sealed water line.
Just as a side note I was on a job a winter or 2 ago where I dump a couple quarts of hot anti freeze down a hole to thaw a froze valve and the city guy has a conniption, says, its going to leak into the city water line,,, ha. Doesn't occur to this water dept genius (head of the dept) that its under 60# pressure.
 
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