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(Water) drain valve on compressor acting goofy

losabio

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Jul 19, 2011
Messages
125
Hello to my GJ brethren. I have a 30 gal Kobalt compressor (the one that went on crazy sale a few years back), and after adding a ball valve just before the air coupler, I've been leaving the tank charged up pretty much non stop since I got the thing. If I use the compressor enough to make the pump kick in, I've been consistent about using the drain valve at the bottom of the tank to drain off any moisture (a teaspoon or two) before putting the compressor away. Lately, the little valve doesn't seem to work any more. I can crank on the thing CCW until I'm afraid it's going to fall off, and I never get that pressurized flow of water. If anything I'll get just a drop of clear water dangling off the valve's knob. I got the idea to try cranking on it CW for a while, and it likewise produced a drop or two of water on the knob, but no pressurized spray. I pulled the top valve to release all the air pressure, and after draining it down to <50 p.s.i., the valve was still not doing its thing.

Any suggestions?
 
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lametec

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May 5, 2008
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Michigan
There's probably some debris blocking it. Could be chunks of rust, or it could be ice (depending on temperature, obviously). Open up the valve and poke something into the hole.
 

b-body-bob

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Oct 10, 2011
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Almost Heaven
I would take it out to make sure the hole is clear of blockage, then replace the petcock with a ball valve with the idea being the easier it is to drain, the more often you'll drain it.
 
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losabio

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Jul 19, 2011
Messages
125
Thanks guys for the suggestions. What are the specs on the type of ball valve I would need to get to replace the irritating petcock that's currently there? I saw where some of the GJ members were rigging up 90 degree elbows, etc. in order to get a super easy access way to drain the tank, too. That might be kind of neat to do at the same time.
 

pepi

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Mar 27, 2013
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Location
Woodstock, GA
I pulled the top valve to release all the air pressure, and after draining it down to <50 p.s.i., the valve was still not doing its thing.

Any suggestions?



Those drain valves are useless, what most likely has happened, the part that you are turning is slipping on the shaft, and is toast. If you do not want to go for the cost of an auto drain. Here is a valve, has a lanyard that you pull. It will open the valve until you release the lanyard. They are used to drain the water from truck air brake storage tanks.

Quick easy fix and will keep you off the floor, have a look below:

http://www.tankerpartsstore.com/mm5...Product_Code=ATK-12105&Category_Code=AIRTANKS
 

b-body-bob

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Oct 10, 2011
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1,621
Location
Almost Heaven
Thanks guys for the suggestions. What are the specs on the type of ball valve I would need to get to replace the irritating petcock that's currently there? I saw where some of the GJ members were rigging up 90 degree elbows, etc. in order to get a super easy access way to drain the tank, too. That might be kind of neat to do at the same time.

You need to figure out what size the bung is in the bottom of the tank, and then you can adapt out from there to fit whatever kind of drain valve you decide to use. Just take what out what bushings/adapter is in there now and take it to a hardware store to match it up and find the size.
 

nmcqueen469

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Joined
Jul 16, 2013
Messages
535
Location
Whitley County, IN
Those drain valves are useless, what most likely has happened, the part that you are turning is slipping on the shaft, and is toast. If you do not want to go for the cost of an auto drain. Here is a valve, has a lanyard that you pull. It will open the valve until you release the lanyard. They are used to drain the water from truck air brake storage tanks.

Quick easy fix and will keep you off the floor, have a look below:

http://www.tankerpartsstore.com/mm5...Product_Code=ATK-12105&Category_Code=AIRTANKS

I got excited...then I saw it quoted $18 for shipping. What a bummer! :eyecrazy:
 
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nmcqueen469

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Jul 16, 2013
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Whitley County, IN
$9.49 shipped on ebay.

internet-high-five.jpeg
 

Charles (in GA)

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Jan 11, 2006
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50 mi south of Atlanta
If its a regular old brass radiator petcock type, the handle (wings, whatever) are crimped to the rest of the brass stem of the valve. Most likely the crimp has weakened and the handle is spinning on the brass.

Charles
 
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losabio

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
125
1235724_-_blow_up.jpg


This is what the old valve looks like. I ordered a Bostitch 1/4 ball valve off of Amazon. If that Bostitch valve won't do the trick, I'll keep trying different configs until we hit one that works. Thanks everybody for the info and suggestions.
 

cmanningjr

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Apr 22, 2011
Messages
98
I need to do the ball valve mod to mine.. Glad this came up.. It reminded me of it..


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