Water Drainage

[GAR64]

If I could do it over, my garage would be about 6" higher and I would not be asking this question but I have to deal with what I have. Generally, I have no water problems as the soil drains very well. But in the Spring before the ground thaws, major melting and rain causes a little water to run under my doors. I do have a slight pitch on the apron, but the overall grading didn't allow for more pitch. Any ideas for a summer project that will help with this matter? Hoping for something I can do without major excavation.

 

[Basstracker34]

Better garage door seals on the bottom. (threshold type or better one on door itself)

Or dig out a trench just before the door opening for a drain going across all the doors.

 

[dw1]

If I could do it over, my garage would be about 6" higher and I would not be asking this question but I have to deal with what I have. Generally, I have no water problems as the soil drains very well. But in the Spring before the ground thaws, major melting and rain causes a little water to run under my doors. I do have a slight pitch on the apron, but the overall grading didn't allow for more pitch. Any ideas for a summer project that will help with this matter? Hoping for something I can do without major excavation.

While you still have gravel in front of your apron, could you install a drainage grate system, running all the way across the front, that would/should keep the water from running in. (Make sure its heavy enough so you can drive across it) or try a french type drain, try to put something under ground with a flush grate to help get rid of the water before it gets to your garage doors.

 

[CNGsaves]

Nice garage !!

Looks like you've been on GJ a while and likely seen this before . . . WHERE are you located?? Best advice will come from GJer's with all information.

Update GJ Profile with City/State/Country.

Solution should be trench drain / french drain depending on your long-term plans for driveway (ie leave gravel or pave/concrete later). If you are in heavy rain area that also has heavy snow that melts and re-freezes, the solution will be more complicated than warm climate area.

 

[Strouty]

I had it worse than you, my shop was at grade with the slope towards the doors. I had to dig along the front and install a drain pipe. I used a corrugated and perferrated one. It was cheap and it works very well. I installed crushed stone all around it and it runs into a plastic 55 gallon drum. We drilled a gazillion holes in the barrel and then filled it with crushed stone too. I went from 4" of water inside my shop to non. I will say that I actually keep a slight depression in front of my building as well, the slab is about an inch higher than the "ditch". In the summer I add stone to make the doorways even, then I rake it around before winter.

I still need to makes sure that all the snow is removed right up to the edge of the building, otherwise it builds up and you end up having similar issues only on a smaller scale.

 

[theoldwizard1]

But in the Spring before the ground thaws, major melting and rain causes a little water to run under my doors.

Good luck !

Worse time of the year, especially if you are coming off of a winter where the frost is deep. No suggestions.

 

[jimp]

If it is just a minor problem look into this:

 

[CNGsaves]

It's deja vu all over again.

Did any of the previous suggests come to fruition?

Been one year and 3 days since the last "flood" issues !!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3765074#post3765074

 

[LB-1911]

Been one year and 3 days since the last "flood" issues !!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3765074#post3765074

- I won't worry about fixing the post I was correcting..

From here a channel drain with a sump leading to a dry well seems reasonable.

 

[GAR64]

Thanks for the input. I think I will try a drain across the front but I'm not sure how it would work before the weather warms up. Also, I plan on getting some of those hurricane door seals.

 

[justin1795]

i have a similar problem. i think a trench drain would be your best option. the other ones may work but could have a future problem with a really bad rain. a drain tile with the sock all the way across would be a cheap option also.

 

[larry4406]

Gutters with down spouts to get the roof runoff far away and the trench drain across the front.

 

[nolimits76]

Not sure your skill level, but putting in a trench drain with grates above sounds the best to me. I deal with Deeter and Neenah for various castings and they both have some offerings; however, there are some other casting manufacturers that may have dealers/distributors in your area.

Both Deeter and Neenah are owned by the same parent (Neenah) but typically Deeter castings are cheaper.

In these situations you will typically have a concrete ditch that you also need to consider. About the cheapest (narrower & unbolted) trench drain I've seen is around $70 per lineal foot for the metal casting parts only.

Deeter #3990 Trench Drain:
http://www.deeter.com/products/trench-covers/

Neenah #4990 Trench Drain:
http://nfco.com/municipal/products/trench-castings/heavy-duty/

Neenah Installation Instructions for Various Trench Castings:
http://nfco.com/municipal/products/trench-castings/installation/

The good thing is these are bullet proof and will stand vehicular traffic. If you want the really heavy duty stuff, Neenah has an airport/industrial grade as well. Prices will be more $$$ than standard vehicular rated items.

 

[nolimits76]

Another option might be Nyloplast products. Here you use plastic pipe and plastic covers to divert your drainage.

I don't deal much with these so I don't know all the fine details and costs, but I do know there is an "H-20 rated" cover that you want. This basically means they are traffic rated and will stand up to your vehicle weight.

http://www.nyloplast-us.com/grate-options

 

[Wizzard]

I have a similar issue except with rain water here in Florida. Garage floor is not raised and is level with the driveway, so water hits the garage door and seeps into the garage through the seals even though there are no air gaps. I couldn't do a trench drain since the house is cinder block w/stucco over that...so a trench drain would be ~1ft away from the garage door. My temporary fix was to stack/glue two garage door weatherstrips from the local Lowes on the concrete side. But I am going to look into ordering one of those bigger ones that jimp posted a pic of above. Good luck...it is frustrating.

 

[theoldwizard1]

From here a channel drain with a sump leading to a dry well seems reasonable.

Channel drain or french drain won't cut it. They would be frozen solid at this time of year.

I have a similar problem. Late winter/early spring, especially after a hard winter when the frost is deep in the ground, the first spring rain will puddle on top of the still frozen ground. In my case the ground within a few inches of the foundation does not freeze (or thaws first). Water run down there and I get a small amount in the basement.

This only happens at this time of year as the grading is sufficient and the soil will hold the moisture if it is not frozen.

 

[LB-1911]

Channel drain or french drain won't cut it. They would be frozen solid at this time of year.

I have a similar problem. Late winter/early spring, especially after a hard winter when the frost is deep in the ground, the first spring rain will puddle on top of the still frozen ground. In my case the ground within a few inches of the foundation does not freeze (or thaws first). Water run down there and I get a small amount in the basement.

This only happens at this time of year as the grading is sufficient and the soil will hold the moisture if it is not frozen.

You just have to know how to maintain then....

Been there, done that. Done properly it works great.

• Trench the drip line/low areas about 1' wide and 2' deep.
• Line the trench with with landscape cloth and about 2-4" of gravel.
• Lay in pvc drain tile (not corrugated) with a sock on it.
• Use the gravel to adjust the pitch.
• cover with gravel to the top of the pipe, then fold the landscape cloth in.
• Cover with gravel to ground level. If possible, do not place dirt on top in the area where the water will be dripping off the roof.
• Extend the trench and pipe to a ditch or a dry well, maintaining proper pitch.

You don't have to go below the frost line as long as the ditch/dry well is adequately sized to handle the runoff before frezing weather sets in