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Water from furnace ?

Johnny Generic

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Joined
Nov 24, 2015
Messages
601
Location
35 miles NE of Pittsburgh, Pa.
Hope somebody can help me out. I all of the sudden I have water coming out from underneath my furnace. Haven't really troubleshot the problem yet. I have a small unit (which I think is a drain pump for said condensation. Clue has hose going to house sewage drain with a 3-foot vertical route to it. Could it be that the drainage is coming from connection inside furnace to the pump or is the pump clog or just bad? Are the pumps serviceable, to much strain to pump with vertical height of discharged. Furnace is only 8 months old. Works fine otherwise. Don't mind getting my fingers dirty to fix something that 100 dollar service call can fix. Any ideas, help. Thanks for responding . Johnny Generic.
 
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Shiftless

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Mar 9, 2014
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14,544
Location
East Bay SFO
An 8 month old install should still be under warrantee. Call them back.
In the meantime, check for clogs in the discharge tube. Maybe pull the tube out of the sewer connection and pour some water into the sump where the condensate pump sits and see if it pumps it out. Are there any status lights on your pump?
 

Garcky

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Joined
Sep 10, 2022
Messages
3,434
Location
Twin Cities Metro Area, Minnesota
An 8 month old install should still be under warrantee. Call them back.
In the meantime, check for clogs in the discharge tube. Maybe pull the tube out of the sewer connection and pour some water into the sump where the condensate pump sits and see if it pumps it out. Are there any status lights on your pump?
I agree. The original installer should fix it. This is one of the reasons I don't much like condensing furnaces, despite their higher efficiency rating. They make water, so that water has to be gotten rid of. The 80% furnaces don't make water. It goes out the vent flue all on its own. But, that's not how things work any more, so the owner should report this to the installer and let them come and sort it out. I'm guessing it's a plugged hose or a defective pump. Warranty stuff.
 

fitter30

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Joined
Jun 23, 2019
Messages
2,976
Location
Peace Valley,mo
If its a 90%+ furnace condensate is produced from the burner. That condensate is a
acid that needs to be neutralized before entering a drain. The condensate line runs through the blower compartment needs to be checked or there is a coil mounted above the blower the has a leak.
 

Snip's

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Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
1,852
Location
Ohio
I'll get a nasty clogged condensate drain with something that looks like thick snot...
When it happens, I get water on the floor next to the furnace....
I'll run a wire down the inside of the drain line and then pour straight clorox down the tube as a disinfectant.... Kills the ectoplasma...
It probably happens once a year for me....
 
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Jeff Ivers

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Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
2,557
Location
Oklahoma
I'll get a nasty clogged condensate drain with something that looks like thick snot...
When it happens, I get water on the floor next to the furnace....
I'll run a wire down the inside of the drain line and then pour straight clorox down the tube as a disinfectant.... Kills the ectoplasma...
It probably happens once a year for me....
I experienced this exact problem this past year on my upstairs heating unit. The tech advised me to mix 2 cups of bleach with a gallon of water and pour that down the condensate drain pipe every six months. Oh and be wary - the tech that came out the first time to fix the problem left the drain for the furnace part disconnected - separate drains for air and heat and the air acted up first.
 

Jackfre

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Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,410
Location
N CA
If it is a drain plug get a Gallo Gun. I agree taht the contractor should come out on this ,but bird dog him to see what he is doing.
 

Junkman

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Joined
Dec 18, 2006
Messages
6,626
Location
Northeastern CT
To add to this is my question. How often should the neutralizer be replaced? Mine drains into the perimeter drain of the cellar foundation. Is this a problem if I don't use a neutralizer?
 

Jackfre

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Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,410
Location
N CA
I tested the condensate from my new 95% water heater. It came in a 2.9 pH. That is hot. Concrete is a lime based product. Limestone is used as the neutralizing medium. Some 30 yrs when I represented a particular furnace line a customer called for a visit for a failed furnace. He had placed the furnace on the basement floor and let it run as a construction heater. The condensate ran onto the floor. He had put a supply plenum on it and supported it off the floor joists. When I got there the bottom three inches of the furnace were gone. That included a 12 ga metal base. Also his 4” concrete floor was now about 2” thick and it had the nicest shiny aggregate in what had been his floor. This was in a spot about 12’ wide. He wanted a new furnace under warranty. I told him he was the dumbest…, well, you can see where that conversation goes. Net/net, out of sight should not be out of mind with condensate. It will eat your footing from below. As to how often to replace it, when the medium is probably 2/3 gone I’d add some more to top it off. The answer really depends upon how often the appliance runs. I made my own on my new water heater install using a couple feet of 4” sch 40 pvc, a 4” cap for the bottom and a 4” coupling at the open top. I drilled an 11/16” home through the side of the cap and the pipe, tapped it with 1/2” mph tap and. A couple pieces of uni-strut and hangers the condensate drains into the bottom 1/2mptx1/2” barbed plastic fitting. It drains from the top fitting. I bought 50# of limestone on-line and fill it with that. They want about $50 for the small neutralizer kit which I see as a pitn. Mine won’t need filling for a while and I have probably 35-40# of rock ready to go. It was way tight in the water heater closet so it is a poor pic.
 

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LS6 Tommy

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Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ
If you end up calling the installer for warranty repairs, push him to install the CODE REQUIRED neutralizer while he's there...
 

iadr

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2016
Messages
77
Location
Alberta
Interesting.
I bought a 70yo home Aug 26 2022 that had 2 new 95% condensate Keeprite brand furnances installed in 2021 by a handyman on permit pulled by a pro. They did pass an inspection, fwiw...but the guy was a bit of a butcher...or at least, for the most part I do nicer work.
But I don't see where there could be a neutralizer. I've had reason to examine the condensate piping which leads a few feet to the floor drain, and its "effluent". This because the one was loose and had left a lime deposit trail over part of the floor for, I'm guessing most of the summer of 2022. In October 2022, I scraped it up with Olfa blades (used bare in my fingers) and did a CLR cleaner wipe and painted the floor. There was no etching of the concrete, all deposits just build up on top on the concrete- although it had been imperfectly painted many many years before, so that helped. New paint took perfectly- although is was Benjamin Moore Command, which is pretty amazingly great stuff. I found he'd made the pipes about 3/16" short, so they tended to work loose. After quoting the materials to redo them, I got smart (I think) and used the thicker of the clear plastic bump-stops made for cupboard doors and the like. I stuck them along the bottom of the PVC condensate tube. Now it's solid...rubbery solid, which IMO is perfect.
But point being, my experience was the condensate was mineral-heavy but neutral to basic. Could this be done internally inside the furnace? I can't suggest it to be code or regional related, as nat gas burns the same everywhere and is of AFIAK the same purity...although is the sulfur what leaves the ph so low?
It concerns me I get this right, as the 70yo floor drain in question goes under the majority of the finished basement's concrete floor, including a very expensive bathroom...and then into the main drain to municipal- & that goes under the garage.
I will say we're mildly alkaline soils here, regionally. Faintly possible our city did low-rank the concern of acidity.
 
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