Water heater anode rod Thoughts on removing

[rust in the eye]

I know conventional wisdom is to have the proper one in place.
When installing my water heater my plumber suggested removing it. I have hard ground water from a private well. It is treated with an iron remover and softener in series upstream of the heater.
Before predicting early doom for my tank I should mention that this was 18 years ago. and that water heater is still working.
I have just purchased another water heater knowing my old one(a GE, no longer made) is on borrowed time.
I would like to understand why removing it worked for me, I do not remember the plumber's explanation. My plan is to do it again to the just purchased Bradford White unit.
Thanks for your thoughts

 

[fitter30]

1/2" impact wrench
1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar, 5' cheater, 2 lb hammer
2 men one to hold the heater put stress on cheater ,hammer 4" away from center of socket to jar the rod.
2x4 & ratchet strap wrapped around heater at the top for leverage.

 

[supratreo]

hes not asking how to do it.

i'm not sure why it worked but would leaving it in have negative effects?

 

[rust in the eye]

Thanks fitter30. I guess my question wasn't clear. Removing it is no trouble, 2 secs with an impact, badda bing, badda boom.
I'm wanting to know why removing my old one (I argued a bit with the plumber but did what he said) resulted in my water heater lasting so long, going on 19 years.
My plan is to do it again (I already have but the unit isn't installed yet) unless something in the construction of my new Bradford White is different than that of my old GE.
Hoping for some experts on the heaters

 

[rust in the eye]

hes not asking how to do it.

i'm not sure why it worked but would leaving it in have negative effects?

That's what I'm trying to figure out. The plumber had an explanation which I've forgotten.
Hey, supratreo. Elk grove? Illinois??

 

[Zeus36]

He likely had you remove it to prevent Hydrogen Sulfide gas forming and creating rotten egg smell in your water.

 

[Firebrick43]

He likely had you remove it to prevent Hydrogen Sulfide gas forming and creating rotten egg smell in your water.

THIS. I always remove mine or we get hydrogen sulfide. My current GE waterheater is 12 years old and still going although the HP has failed.

Which reminds me, I need to install the new Rheem in its place

 

[supratreo]

That's what I'm trying to figure out. The plumber had an explanation which I've forgotten.
Hey, supratreo. Elk grove? Illinois??

elk grove, CA.
might be a long shot but would you be able to get ahold of that plumber? now i'm curious lol.

 

[cgrutt]

I had issue with the Hydrogen Sulfide gas from anode in a vacation house I used to own. The gas would accumulate during week and we would have the rotten egg smell for a few minutes until hot water flushed through system. I recall there was a different type of anode available that wouldn't form the gas, maybe Magnesium? Been a while don't really remember. As far as leaving it out thought about it but would rather deal with the gas than a rusted tank. I'd say you're pretty fortunate going on 20 years without issue.

 

[nadogail]

I ignore the anodes in my water heaters, when a heater starts to leak I replace it, usually the same day.

 

[gmcgeo]

I know conventional wisdom is to have the proper one in place.
When installing my water heater my plumber suggested removing it. I have hard ground water from a private well. It is treated with an iron remover and softener in series upstream of the heater.
Before predicting early doom for my tank I should mention that this was 18 years ago. and that water heater is still working.
I have just purchased another water heater knowing my old one(a GE, no longer made) is on borrowed time.
I would like to understand why removing it worked for me, I do not remember the plumber's explanation. My plan is to do it again to the just purchased Bradford White unit.
Thanks for your thoughts

Plumbers tell people to take them out do to the chemical making a rotten egg smell in the water.

you can fix the water smell with the anode in, i advise to keep the anode in the new water heater.


Here this will help understand

 

[Firebrick43]

Plumbers tell people to take them out do to the chemical making a rotten egg smell in the water.

you can fix the water smell with the anode in, i advise to keep the anode in the new water heater.


Here this will help understand

I have tried everything listed there (except the powered anode which sounds like snake oil to me) and it comes back in a week or two. Who doesn’t have a water softener?

 

[thammel]

I have a magnesium anode rod and don't have a problem with hydrogen sulfide. We have well water, which is neutralized and softened. We have a propane fired high efficiency water heater and they are not cheap at all. I've been replacing the anode rod every 1.2 to 2 years at which time they are almost totally consumed. I'm convinced this maintenance has greatly extended water heater life. Before I did this they died every 4-6 years. I'm currently on year 13.

 

[gmcgeo]

I have tried everything listed there (except the powered anode which sounds like snake oil to me) and it comes back in a week or two. Who doesn’t have a water softener?

I don't have the issue, i do have a water softener

 

[Firebrick43]

I don't have the issue, i do have a water softener

You have never had hydrogen sulfide or you replaced with a zinc anode and don’t have it any more?

The article stated that those with zinc anodes and softeners may still have issues

 

[rharman]

I don't have the issue, i do have a water softener

Waster softener will exacerbate the wear on an anode.

Which is why @thammel gets so much wear in such a short time. I have the same issue and shoot to replace it every 2 years - I use a segmented magnesium rod due to low headroom. I also drain a few gallons every 3-4 months. I put a tee and ball valve on mine so it's easy to attach a hose.

 

[Skiff Builder]

I have tried everything listed there (except the powered anode which sounds like snake oil to me) and it comes back in a week or two. Who doesn’t have a water softener?

Powered anodes work on marine inboard outboards. Mecury Marine Mercathode system. Might work on a home heater. No mag/zinc/alum in the water.

 

[RoninB4]

There is also a possibility of bacteria in the water heater causing odors. The WH is dark, wet, and good place for bacteria to grow. Hydrogen peroxide is a safer solution than chlorine bleach. It worked for me.

How To Eliminate Water Heater Odors

How to determine the source or the reason why your homes water heater has a "rotten-egg" or sulfurous smell. Read on how to fix these...

www.cleanwaterstore.com

 

[86turbodsl]

I have a powered anode on my water heater tank. It's not snake oil, the principle is sound. I did it because my water heater is a special one over a 100 gallons and would cost $$$$ to replace. I am trying to avoid it.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

You want to keep your anode.

So...the anode is there to prevent corrosion in your tank at any point where the internal coating (typically ceramic) gets a void in it. If the internal coating were perfect....technically you wouldn't need an anode, but it never is. If your coating were terrible, your tank might last a long time anyway, because your corrosion would be spread out over a large interior area of the tank. If your coating only has one or two small "holidays" you'll fail the fastest, because all the corrosion will occur at one spot.

We deal with this on buried pipelines. Exactly the same setup. We maintain magnesium anodes on coated pipeline so the anode will corrode and not the pipeline at any coating defect.

Powered systems like discussed above are also very common. A DC current source can take the place of the mag anode. Typically this is actually rectified AC current....but DC would work fine too.

 

[jkeyser14]

Get yourself a Marathon lifetime polymer tank and you won't need to worry about the anode.

 

[Malibu Mac]

I use one of these and it works great, and also prevents the rotten egg smell. When I installed this I also removed the factory installed inlet and outlet ******* that have built in baffles and replaced them with standard galvanized pipe *******. The baffles restrict water flow and I didn't want to lose any pressure since I'm already on a well and the pressure is not that great.

 

[mobiledynamics]

Interesting thread as I was thinking about putting a powered anode.
Does anyone have any LONG term experience one.
Off to google if someone did a cutaway of a tank with powered anode.

 

[paulsomlo]

Here's the site where the pdf posted above came from:
https://www.waterheaterrescue.com/water-heaters-101/powered-anodes-solve-smelly-hot-water.html

 

[LiketoFix]

I Have replaced the anodes in our Gas Powered water Heater and I even filter our good Municipal Water. Works for me.
On My Sons house that he just purchased in the last 6 months we installed 2 of the powered anodes in 2 water heater's eliminating the rotten egg smell in his treated well water on a Kinetico treated system. Working good for him!!! JMO.
LtF

 

[Dave Carney]

Powered anode here, they work, it's not snake oil. I'm on well water and running a Kinetico softner. Water heater is now 23 years old. My powered anode is a CerAnode which is no longer produced but I recently bought a powered anode from www.waterodor.com for my daughter. His website is terrific as is the waterheaterrescue.com website. Don't run it without an anode or you are just relying on luck of getting a perfect interior coating/finish when the heater was made. Are you lucky? I'm not, for sure I'm not.

 

[mobiledynamics]

What if you don't have smelly water and use a powered anode rod.
How will one know its working or not, just short of taking a cutaway....
At least with a regular -rod-, you can visually see it.
That's my concern about swapping it to powered.

 

[LiketoFix]

Great Question. I wasn't familiar with the powered Anode until my son educated me on it recently with his rotten egg smell in his newer purchased house of 21 yrs. old. The powered anodes, although more expensive, can last a long time. I have used replacement Anodes and have had no problems with doing that and my tanks are over 20 years old, hopefully extending their life. Some don't care and just replace the Water Heater. I know when I replaced the Anode that the old ones were ready to be replaced! Easy job. IMO!

LtF

 

[gmcgeo]

Powered anode's work, just differently then your standard sacrificial anodes

 

[LiketoFix]

A lot has to do with the mineral content of your Water as there's different Anodes!
Aluminum, Zinc, Magnesium, and even mixed combination of metal alloys.
Areas tend to supply the needed and most sought after rods per market, but the best way is to test your water and do your own research to know what sort off Anode Rod you need! Takes a lot of guess work out of Things!

LtF

 

[Dave Carney]

What if you don't have smelly water and use a powered anode rod.
How will one know its working or not, just short of taking a cutaway....

Mine has a green LED light to let me know it's working, plus there is a procedure to check the current with a multi-meter if you want to. The one from www.waterodor.com has a purpose built controller, also with a green light to tell you it's working. The Chinese white label units sold under a bunch of different brand names may have a light but it just indicates that it's plugged in. Those are using generic power supplies. Check out that website.

 

[rust in the eye]

Based on responses here I've re-installed the anode rod. I do not have enough headroom to put it back once the WH is in place.
It can always come out with destructive methods should I get stinky water.
Still don't remember why removal had been suggested in the first place but nigh on 19 years later the first one is still going without ever having had the rod in place. Hard to argue with that.
Now, to get this huge 75 gl. beast down the basement stairs

EDIT July 2024
After the new unit was in place the water was smelly. I removed the anode rod(again) and the water has been fine since.
Its only been a year but no troubles so far. If this water heater last as the last one did, it was 19 and still working, it will likely outlive me.

 

[LiketoFix]

It's really just a preventative maintenance suggestion if you really want to know. Stinky water or not, that's just one reason to not only replace the Anode Rod but replace it with the electric Anode Rod @$120-140 Bucks to solve the Stinky water, Sulpher Smell.
Otherwise @ about $40 bucks the segmented Anode Rod Replacement is made for limited head room Clearance.
It's all about Water quality and content and in your case the water coming into your tank just has a lower content that your Anode attracts to or that attracts to your anode to put it better. JMO!
Besides the fact that it can extend the life of your Tank.
Taking a Sample of your water and having it tested will take all the guess work out of it. It then will give you the ingredients to your Water and you can best determine which Anode is best in your tank to take unwanted impurities out of you water. JMO!
LtF

 

[rharman]

When I changed out the original, it was really easy to just bend it on the way up/out to deal with limited headroom. It still had some meat on it too - not just wire.

After that, segmented rods make it a piece of cake.

 

[danski0224]

Mine has a green LED light to let me know it's working, plus there is a procedure to check the current with a multi-meter if you want to. The one from www.waterodor.com has a purpose built controller, also with a green light to tell you it's working. The Chinese white label units sold under a bunch of different brand names may have a light but it just indicates that it's plugged in. Those are using generic power supplies. Check out that website.

That's a very interesting website.

 

[rlitman]

I ignore the anodes in my water heaters, when a heater starts to leak I replace it, usually the same day.

"Great" advice that's equally applicable to car tires. I too ignore inexpensive consumables until I need to replace big ticket items.

Get yourself a Marathon lifetime polymer tank and you won't need to worry about the anode.

Polymer tanks are limited to electric heaters so far as I am aware. I have a stainless tank indirect, also with no anode. It's rated for 30 years.

Interesting thread as I was thinking about putting a powered anode.
Does anyone have any LONG term experience one.
Off to google if someone did a cutaway of a tank with powered anode.

Well, my office has had a titanium powered anode in its water heater since 2009. That's not LONG term, but impressed current cathodic systems are what's typically used to protect docked museum ships for their lifetimes, which does meet your LONG term experience requirement. Yes, they work very well.

 

[jsmith2251]

I know conventional wisdom is to have the proper one in place.
When installing my water heater my plumber suggested removing it. I have hard ground water from a private well. It is treated with an iron remover and softener in series upstream of the heater.
Before predicting early doom for my tank I should mention that this was 18 years ago. and that water heater is still working.
I have just purchased another water heater knowing my old one(a GE, no longer made) is on borrowed time.
I would like to understand why removing it worked for me, I do not remember the plumber's explanation. My plan is to do it again to the just purchased Bradford White unit.
Thanks for your thoughts

Following. Our home was built in 2005 and the plumber removed the anode rod from our hot water tank explaining it wasn’t needed because of the water softener and would prevent the sulfur smell etc. We still have the same hot water tank 19 years strong. We rarely get the sulfur smell. My son however bought a house 6 years ago and had all new softening system and new hot water tank. His water consistently smells and has a brown tint. The company for the softener has been out twice and says the system is working. My son has changed the anode rod twice in the hot water tank. I suggested removing it.

 

[pcmeiners]

"Don't run it without an anode or you are just relying on luck of getting a perfect interior coating/finish when the heater was made. Are you lucky?"

Yes it all depends on the quality of the tank glass glazing, do you have pin holes in the glaze (most likely) and what are the locations?
If your lucky, the pin holes are not in a critical area, if not you need an anode or an electronic protector.

 

[paulsomlo]

Timely post - I just replaced the anode rod yesterday in the girlfriend's water heater. Last replaced in 2019, I inspected it about 3 years ago and wire brushed the mineral deposits off of it. When I removed it yesterday, it appeared to be near full diameter the entire length, but with a solid crust of deposits on it. Her 1st water heater lasted 27 years.

 

[rust in the eye]

Following. Our home was built in 2005 and the plumber removed the anode rod from our hot water tank explaining it wasn’t needed because of the water softener and would prevent the sulfur smell etc. We still have the same hot water tank 19 years strong. We rarely get the sulfur smell. My son however bought a house 6 years ago and had all new softening system and new hot water tank. His water consistently smells and has a brown tint. The company for the softener has been out twice and says the system is working. My son has changed the anode rod twice in the hot water tank. I suggested removing it.

I wound up removing the anode rod in the new WH after the water was stinky. No smell since.
If headroom allows you can always put it back, if not a 2 piece is available too.