Water heater help

[mike528]

I am replacing the old 30g 1981 water heater in my house that was built in 41. Got the hot and cold hooked up but want some advice on where to run this guy on the new one.

It goes over to where the lines go up to the second floor bathroom. It gurgled a lot while the tank was filling then once it was full it started flowing constantly. Do I just need to put a tee between the pressure relief valve and tank or just cap it off?

 

[The Cobbler]

are you saying the line that shows on the old tank is the same line as showing at the pail?

 

[pattenp]

The vent pipe from the pressure relief valve needs to be left open, do not cap it. Wiggle the pressure relief valve handle to see if you can get the leak to stop.

 

[mike528]

It is the same line at the pail that went into the line on the old tank. It wasn't part of the prv. Acts more like a return line. It flows back into the tank.

 

[The Cobbler]

not sure what purpose it's serving other than some funky drain set up. if it's leaking it means the valve is not holding. I don't see why you need that line at all...

 

[The Cobbler]

it wont even drain , I think it was just a way for someone to get water in the pail when they needed to.

 

[Kaizen]

There might be or had been a circulator at that bathroom so they could get hot water there and not. Waste water.


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[brewchief]

It went to the drain port at the bottom of the old heater? If so it is more then likely a recirc line, it will allow hot water to flow up to the second floor through the normal lines and then back to the tank via that line, all by gravity.

It should have a check valve added.

A brass tee and a couple of brass ******* will be needed and it wouldn't hurt to upgrade the tank drain while your at it.

I like to see a check valve followed by a tee with a boiler drain and then a ball valve in that order coming from the house to the heater drain port, that way you can close the ball valve and open the boiler drain to get the air out of the recirc loop.

You can add a pump either with a timer or constant running to improve the recirc action if needed.

 

[The Cobbler]

I would agree with the gravity reciirc line too, at least part of it. the rest is missing LOL

 

[kbs2244]

I am voting with Kaizn.
But buying a plumber a six pack for his experience would be my advise.

 

[CNGsaves]

+1 to DO IT ONCE, Do It Right for re-doing that Re-circ setup. For starters, junk all those shutoff screw-ins and instead use 1/4 turn BALL VALVES that are full flow.

Also TAKE OUT/Junk absolutely everything that is galvanized steel. It needs to be copper, brass, or Pex for water.