Water heater install advice: Texas

[Krfjkm]

I built my garage with a man cave on the second floor. It has a full bath and I am working to hook up my water heater. It is a lowboy.

I have the pex tools and the pex is stubbed right above it. I am also comfortable doing the electricity.

Here’s my questions:
- what about the pressure valve on the side? The water heater is in a pan that is connected to a drain that runs outside. Do I need to do anything else with that?

- for the electrical hookup do I need it in a conduit or can I just make the connection?

We are in San Antonio Tx if that helps.

Thanks for any advice!





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[CombatNinja]

You're going to want to hook up some piping to that pressure relief valve so the outlet is close to the bottom of the unit. Check your local codes but you want it low to avoid scalding someone stand next to it and to ensure that 95% of the water goes into the pan instead of spraying everywhere.

I hate pans and all the 'solutions' for water heaters in finished spaces, especially second stories. If you let it get away from you and the unit 'blows out', you have a terrible mess on your hands. I like 'em in basements or garages for that reason. If my unit explodes, my garage floor gets a warm bath, no damage to the house.

 

[Showkey]

I am on Fine Home Building daily email blog.
According to them and varying local codes there are 14 “rules” on the pressure relief release pipe alone.
Pans are often misunderstood in many areas on requirements and drains.
Needless to say no pans is huge problem if the heater is placed in the living space. The OP is TX.....no basements. Even in a basement install the floor might be sloped ever so much the wrong way ....you wish you had a pan.


https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2019/11/05/top-10-water-heater-code-violations

 

[niget2002]

All of my last three houses have had the pressure relief plumbed all the way outside and dumped straight onto the ground.

I live near Dallas.

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[K'ledgeBldr]

It appears that the W/H is on decking- so I’ll assume it is actually upstairs in the “man cave” area.

The TPRV needs to be plumbed down an exterior wall, exit the wall approx. 12” above grade, then extended down to within 3” of finished grade. The pan needs to be plumbed in the same matter.

In your particular scenario, when the TPRV blows it is directed to the exterior of the structure causing no damage. And it’s close enough to the ground that if someone were standing near by they would not be harmed.

The pan being plumbed to the exterior does two things- first, it also directs water to the exterior minimizing structural damage; but it also gives you a direct visual indicator of a potential problem if you see water dripping from it. It acts in a similar way that the drain pan under an HVAC unit would act- which is why attic unit have that line exiting the soffit over a window (easily visible indicator).

When you do the plumbing, don’t forget the expansion tank. And, since you’re doing PEX make sure the expansion tank is well mounted to the wall.

 

[matt_i]

You know...with those 100-year (or was it 10-year?) freezes going deep south, it might be prudent to at least setup an emergency plan to drain the tank & piping if a bad situation were to happen with no power during such an event.

Drain the lines would be a pain but imo a lot less pain than having to repair back burst pipes and soggy drywall.

 

[Mike Folks]

Rarely,but it does happen,the relief valve fails,with the tank blowing up, and sometimes out of the house.

 

[pmiranda]

I've always seen the T&P valve plumbed to daylight with 3/4" or larger PVC or copper. Even when all the other lines are PEX. Dunno if it's required by your local code, but it seems like a good idea.
One suggestion I'd have is to plumb or arrange the drain valve to go out the same drain that the pan is plumbed to. Otherwise when you want to drain the WH for maintenance you have to specifically set up another hose.

 

[getbent4x4]

Above post and the inlet lines need to be so many inches of copper line before you connect the pex to be to code.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Above post and the inlet lines need to be so many inches of copper line before you connect the pex to be to code.

At least 18 inches. And OP needs to use a dielectric connector between the tank and the copper lines.

 

[fourjeepin]

At least 18 inches. And OP needs to use a dielectric connector between the tank and the copper lines.

I thought this was only for gas WH? I replaced both of mine in the last 18 mo, one gas and one electric. I had to extend the copper to get to the 18”.

 

[Metal-Marc]

If this picture can help OP, I installed this short 40 gal. hot water heater last month.

 

[yatg]

One suggestion I'd have is to plumb or arrange the drain valve to go out the same drain that the pan is plumbed to. Otherwise when you want to drain the WH for maintenance you have to specifically set up another hose.

At the very least change out the cheapy plastic drain faucet with a full port valve.

 

[jhelrey]

The ******* installed in the water heater are typically dielectric.

 

[dale500]

If your area has recycled water for irrigation you will likely have a anti-backflow valve installed on your water meter. As the water warms the pressures can go high enough to open the pressure relief valve. You may want to check out adding a pressure tank to the water to absorb the water expansion. Simple install and it can really save your plumbing.

 

[safnd2021]

All of my last three houses have had the pressure relief plumbed all the way outside and dumped straight onto the ground.

I live near Dallas.

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This is code

 

[Sumboodie]

If this picture can help OP, I installed this short 40 gal. hot water heater last month.

Can't have a valve on the hot like that. Just on the supply (cold)

 

[gahrajmahal]

I’ve replaced a lot of expansion tanks recently. Next time I’m going to try one of these instead. https://www.sharkbite.com/products/thermal-expansion-relief-valve

 

[firebirdparts]

I've got a low-boy upstairs over finished space and I have the relief piped outside. This is in the house. I wonder sometimes when I should pre-empt it leaking all over the ceiling and get rid of the heater. it's done well, no repairs ever in 20 years.

 

[Nick Danger]

The San Antonio codes for water heaters are on page 104-105. These are amendments to the International Plumbing Code. I see that you're required to have an antisiphon device.

https://docsonline.sanantonio.gov/DSDUploads/2018Ch10Amendments.pdf

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

I’ve replaced a lot of expansion tanks recently. Next time I’m going to try one of these instead. https://www.sharkbite.com/products/thermal-expansion-relief-valve

When I saw "Sharkbite", plenty of doubt immediately ran through the brain!
I wonder how much water that would waste if it popped? And if any typical H/O would even notice!?

Sharkbites are great for emergency repairs- but I'd never, ever, rely on them for long term conditions- period!

 

[pmiranda]

Can't have a valve on the hot like that. Just on the supply (cold)

And, um, where's the T&P valve?

 

[Krfjkm]

Thanks guys — got with a plumber friend who is covered up with work. He called into his supply house and they set me up with an expansion tank and a anti-siphon deal. I am all set now!