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Water heater - repair or replace?

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Mike1903

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Current unit is a kenmore 50 gallon natural gas installed in 2008. It suddenly quit when we were out of hot water.

The pilot light was out, so, relit and it worked fine. After few hours the pilot light went out again. Restarted this afternoon and is holding steady but I’m wondering if I should just look at getting a new unit or replace the pilot assembly to get some more time out of it. Is Rheem from big orange a good option?

Our water is pretty soft… not sure if it matters.
 
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Mike1903

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Thx. Will look into thermocouple replacement.


I did notice that the tip is orange like a hot metal, both in the pilot and full heat. I don’t think i noticed it earlier and not sure if it relevant.
 

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Mike1903

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Bulldog13 said:
10 years is the average life expectancy….I just replaced mine with a Rheem.. no complaints and it was in stock
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Did you DIY? Mine is a gas and I am not sure if I want to DIY. I got a quote of $1,900 + tax for a Rheem installed.
 
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gmcgeo

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Mike1903 said:
Did you DIY? Mine is a gas and I am not sure if I want to DIY. I got a quote of $1,900 + tax for a Rheem installed.
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That is a good deal right now, my quote would be around 2300-2500 for a rheem installed
 
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Showkey

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Anode replacement is everything to do with the water quality in the area.
If 1% of the anodes are replaced for anti corrosion or maintenance swap in average across the population…….that might be slightly high.

Anode replacement for smell or odor concerns is far more common…….usually on new units. Again for water chemistry causing the action.
 
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welder4956

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Mike1903 said:
Did you DIY? Mine is a gas and I am not sure if I want to DIY. I got a quote of $1,900 + tax for a Rheem installed.
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For that price, it better have a long warranty and be energy efficient. Rheem offers a 6 year and a 12 year warranty. HD price here is $669 for their cheapest 50 gal Rheem with a 6 year warranty vs. $1069 for a Energy Star efficient with 12 year warranty. Don't let them install the cheapest model for that price.
 
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Mike1903

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welder4956 said:
For that price, it better have a long warranty and be energy efficient. Rheem offers a 6 year and a 12 year warranty. HD price here is $669 for their cheapest 50 gal Rheem with a 6 year warranty vs. $1069 for a Energy Star efficient with 12 year warranty. Don't let them install the cheapest model for that price.
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According to the company, it is a Rheem Pro unit not available at home centers and comes with a 10 year warranty.
Called another company and they offer Bradford White with 6 year warranty for $1100. I can upgrade to a 10 year warranty for extra $ but it’s the same unit. Expansion tank will extra if existing one can’t be reused.

Will call few others to get estimates.
 
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mervyn

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Mike1903 said:
The heater or the thermocouple?
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The heater. Called these yahoos to come look at it and they brought a universal thermocouple and guess what it didn't fit

So called this other guy who is very knowledgeable and he said it overdue for replacement. So that's what I did. 1100 bucks installed.
It's a Ruud 28 gallon.
 
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Meursault74

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Is it a "smart" one or a normal one. My brother has one that it has some feedback lighting signals, it has given him issues. Mine is "stupid", no issues.

Do you have flex lines for the water and gas? If so, I'd replace them when the unit is replaced. If you have those flex line, then it is a DIY project if you are able to physically move the empty tank by yourself.
 
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Mike1903

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Meursault74 said:
Is it a "smart" one or a normal one. My brother has one that it has some feedback lighting signals, it has given him issues. Mine is "stupid", no issues.

Do you have flex lines for the water and gas? If so, I'd replace them when the unit is replaced. If you have those flex line, then it is a DIY project if you are able to physically move the empty tank by yourself.
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Normal one, not smart.
Flex lines for both gas and water. Please see the picture.

Most of it seems like straightforward install but wasn’t sure if codes have changed along the way.

10488445-9CD9-417C-A05F-4443DA8BB9AB.png
 
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mike93lx

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That t&p needs to go straight down, but that was always the case. The whole point is to make it very obvious if it is leaking at that, not to hide it in a crawl space or sump pit
 
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Mike1903

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mike93lx said:
That t&p needs to go straight down, but that was always the case. The whole point is to make it very obvious if it is leaking at that, not to hide it in a crawl space or sump pit
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Good point. There is a sink right next to the heater…. I’ll move the pipe to drip into it. Thx
 
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Meursault74

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Mike1903 said:
Normal one, not smart.
Flex lines for both gas and water. Please see the picture.

Most of it seems like straightforward install but wasn’t sure if codes have changed along the way.

10488445-9CD9-417C-A05F-4443DA8BB9AB.png
Click to expand...
Yeah, others can chime in about codes and that white piping and tank. I've done mine. Just once, so far. It only had the flex pipes for the water and gas.
I've even taken the burner assembly apart and put it back as there was a piece of grit that somehow got stuck into the gas line orifice for the pilot light. It went out and I couldn't get it to light again until I took it apart, blew it out with compressed air and put it back. This happened a few years after the install.

Shut off gas and water to tank. Drain tank . Remove flex lines. unstrap the tank. Move tank away. Put in new one in reverse order.
Of course it's NEVER that smooth with any plumbing job in general. Water shut off valve may start to leak, maybe some threads get buggered up from corrosion.

If you have to install a threaded natural gas port into the water heater, remember that a sealant is needed on the threads.

I couldn't smell any leaks and used some soapy water as well to double check for leaks. I remember you mentioned some concern over the gas
 
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Mike1903

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Meursault74 said:
Yeah, others can chime in about codes and that white piping and tank. I've done mine. Just once, so far. It only had the flex pipes for the water and gas.
I've even taken the burner assembly apart and put it back as there was a piece of grit that somehow got stuck into the gas line orifice for the pilot light. It went out and I couldn't get it to light again until I took it apart, blew it out with compressed air and put it back. This happened a few years after the install.

Shut off gas and water to tank. Drain tank . Remove flex lines. unstrap the tank. Move tank away. Put in new one in reverse order.
Of course it's NEVER that smooth with any plumbing job in general. Water shut off valve may start to leak, maybe some threads get buggered up from corrosion.

If you have to install a threaded natural gas port into the water heater, remember that a sealant is needed on the threads.

I couldn't smell any leaks and used some soapy water as well to double check for leaks. I remember you mentioned some concern over the gas
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Thx for the response.
My comment about gas was the risk tolerance. I know some relatives who are very comfortable with plumbing and gas work but stay away from basic electrical work. I can handle the most complex electrical work but always worried about water leaks or gas lines blowing up even thought it sounds simple.

I’m going to stop by Home Depot to look at a unit and get an idea of how the pipes/flex need to be modified.
 
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jjrbus

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Mike1903 said:
Thx for the response.
My comment about gas was the risk tolerance. I know some relatives who are very comfortable with plumbing and gas work but stay away from basic electrical work. I can handle the most complex electrical work but always worried about water leaks or gas lines blowing up even thought it sounds simple.

I’m going to stop by Home Depot to look at a unit and get an idea of how the pipes/flex need to be modified.
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What I do not like about plumbing is even with the most straight forward job I end up running back and forth to the store 11 times for different parts! With my RV I try to do the job in the HD parking lot.😂
 
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mike93lx

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Mike1903 said:
Thx for the response.
My comment about gas was the risk tolerance. I know some relatives who are very comfortable with plumbing and gas work but stay away from basic electrical work. I can handle the most complex electrical work but always worried about water leaks or gas lines blowing up even thought it sounds simple.

I’m going to stop by Home Depot to look at a unit and get an idea of how the pipes/flex need to be modified.
Click to expand...
in some places, even just hooking up a gas appliance requires a licensed plumber (MA, for sure). I am not going to say i have done it myself in the past, just throwing out there that it may be worth checking if you are nervous at all.

some flex pipes can't be reused either. i'd be starting with new stuff it if was me.
 
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Meursault74

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mike93lx said:
in some places, even just hooking up a gas appliance requires a licensed plumber (MA, for sure). I am not going to say i have done it myself in the past, just throwing out there that it may be worth checking if you are nervous at all.

some flex pipes can't be reused either. i'd be starting with new stuff it if was me.
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I wonder how that works in reality. I've had to fix our gas dryer a few times over they years. I have to move it away from the wall to get to work on it. I shut the gas off at the valve by the machine. Unscrewed the flex line (they have the flare fitting) so that I can move it. Fixed the dryer and put things back. Once I noticed the flex pipe had cracked from me handling it. Obvious hiss and smell when I put the gas back on. Shut the gas back to off and go the local hardware store and get another flex line and install. I now know it's best to not reuse them. That was the first time I ever touched one and I ended up replacing it. Obviously, I do not have a plumbing license and I'm working on my own home.

If the washer/dryer/appliance repair person was to do a repair on my dryer. They'd have to remove the flex gas line to move the machine. Curious if they need a plumbing license or if they'd have to call a licensed plumber. Or maybe their training certifies them for flex lines.
I can't imagine a licensed plumber being called in addition to an appliance repair person for a service call of this type.
 
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Bulldog13

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I’ve done both gas and electric tanks….both are not too bad of a job…it helps if you have a buddy who can help or has done it before.
 
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AffableCurmudgeon

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Not sure where you live but around here, flex water hoses are not code. In any event, as others have said, if it is not leaking and just not staying lit, I would start with cleaning the burner and replacing the thermocouple and anode. You may get some more life out of it.
 
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Meursault74

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Ashamsi said:
Not sure where you live but around here, flex water hoses are not code. In any event, as others have said, if it is not leaking and just not staying lit, I would start with cleaning the burner and replacing the thermocouple and anode. You may get some more life out of it.
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I don't know about the codes. My water heater is outside the house in a metal housing/shed right up against the side of the house. I also live in earthquake country. Flex hoses for water and gas from the valves to the water heater seems logical to me and that's the way I found them. I'd rather have the flex hose be the weak link than pipe give in an earthquake. ....... Yes the tank is also strapped to the outside wall as well.

Last time, the tank failed, the tank actually failed and was leaking from the tank. No property damage, the lawn got a lot of extra water in that area though.
 
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cpttuna

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jjrbus said:
Over about 7 years old I would replace. Of course only my opinion and worth what you are paying for it.
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I replace after mine get to be 10 years old. yes, you can play with them, but I'm getting older and want things in order for my wife if I go unexpectedly.
 
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