Water heater sediment?

[D.J.]

What inexpensive chemical could I use to get the sediment out of the bottom of my Bradford White 40 gal 40,000 btu natural gas water heater. We have hard water in the town I live in and am looking to remove wh this weekend to rinse sediment out of it. I think Calcium is the biggest culprit in the sediment. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! Can't really afford a new heater right now.

 

[6t7gto]

Might get some help here...
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/forum.php?

david

 

[Steevo]

Vinegar does a good job of dissolving calcium deposits in coffee makers.
Why not pour a gallon in the water heater and let it sit for a half day or so, then drain/flush it.

http://www.ehow.com/how_7533121_clean-hot-water-heater-vinegar.html

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

If you really want it clean, shut off the gas and disconnect it from the house water mains, drain as much as you can out of the tank and close the drain valve. Then, with a funnel in the fill pipe, throw in a gallon jug of CLR and let it sit for a couple hours. Be sure it is not plumed to the house mains and open the pressure relief valve for good measure. Then use a garden hose and fill it 1/3 full with water, you'll have to guesstimate here. Let it sit over night. The next morning drain the tank completely. White ooze will be pouring out. Then flush the tank with your hose to get the rest of the sediment and CLR out. Reconnect everything and she ought to be good.

This is an unorthodox solution but it will work if your water heater isn't too far gone.

For a permanent fix, install a water softener.

 

[Mr. Tool]

Watch out now!

This is just a heads up on sediment removal from a waterheater. I don't know how long you've had that waterheater but there is "always" the possibility that once you've removed sediment from the bottom be prepared for it to possibly start leaking. It's a hit or miss but if you've had it for a long time, more than 8-10 years it could very well leak. Since sediment had settled (weight, expansion, etc.) and covered up very small hole openings over a long period of time and once removed well those small holes are exposed when you find water leaking out.
Again, this is just something to take into consideration. Heck it very well may not leak?

 

[philjafo]

You can get a lot of sediment out by simply draining the tank the with the drain open and hose attached open the valve, the quick blast of water gets a lot out and you don't have to remove the tank. Works best if you've got ball valves on it the gate valves are slow but still work. Since your draining the tank and trying to prolong its life, it might be a good time to replace the anode.

 

[Highbeam]

Consider jsut replacing it if it is old. Is there a reason that you are doing this? Has something failed? When the mud hits the first element it can burn out.

I know I wouldn't mess with the drain valve. Mine is plastic and if it works, don't fix it.

 

[philjafo]

Good point on the plastic drain valve highbeam, they don't always seal properly if they are old. Same goes for the t&p relief valve.

 

[Mr. Tool]

Again, this is just my opinion but anytime a waterheater is drained one should "always" replace the "Pressure Relief Valve" (PRV or T&P). Also when it is drained it is best to replace the small plastic cheap drain spigot (that the waterheater orginially came with) with an 6" extension pipe and gate valve, for ease of draining the next time.

I just replaced my waterheater earlier this month (electric) and before I installed the new one I replaced the drain valve as mentioned above for future use. Didn't have to buy a PRV (T&P) since most waterheaters come with one.
I've drained waterheaters before and have replaced waterheaters before as well and by no means am I an expert, it's just a live and learn process from past experiences. Believe me, it's not fun trying to drain a waterheater with the plastic drain spigot that it originally comes with!

 

[D.J.]

Well I bit the bullet and just replaced the WH, when house was built they forgot to install a drip tube on the gas line and I feel this led to its early demise.

 

[philjafo]

Early demise and poor performance, your new water heater if properly installed will reward you with reduced operating costs and lots of hot water.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

I tell my customers to just drain about 5 gallons of water out the bottem every month when I install a water heater,Im got customers with water heaters I installed 20 yrs ago that are still running same unit without troubles

 

[Jackfre]

The suggestion on removing the plastic (junk) drain valve on the bottom is spot on. Replace it with a ******, tee (brass hose bib off the side) ******, full port ball valve, 3/4" ips X hose fitting and put a hose cap on that. The built up sediment in your old tank shows that you, number one should put a whole house filter on the cold supply to the house and maintain it. Keep in mind, you are running that sediment through your washing machine, dishwasher, faucets, etc. If you install the suggested set-up you can turn off the tank, drain and let it cool some, attach your garden hose to it and blast the **** loose, drain and repeat until clear.

 

[Highbeam]

Replace it with a ******, tee (brass hose bib off the side) ******, full port ball valve, 3/4" ips X hose fitting and put a hose cap on that.

This sounds hokey. Why the tee? Why not just a hose bib?

 

[Jackfre]

You want volume, velocity an turbulence to unsettle the compacted debris. You won't get that through a hose bib