I would like some advice on installing a water hydrant in a new pole barn. I am planning to eventually have water ran to the inside of my pole barn in the future, but not during the initial build. Should i have them install the hydrant and pour concrete around it and rough in the plumbing to the outside of the building or should I have them leave a small 1'X1' area without concrete for a later hydrant install? Not in the budget or time frame to have water hooked up from the start.
water hydrant in new build
- Thread starter lkempf
- Start date
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
None of the above options are OK as a domestic water supply to the inside of a building. You need to bring some sort of doemstic water service to the inside of the building and then split off to the potential water heater and also split the cold water out to a hydrant on the outside of the building.
Tommy
Tommy
like2wheel
Well-known member
I have the same question.
I suspect he wants the freeze proof hydrant because the barn will not be continually heated.
I suspect he wants the freeze proof hydrant because the barn will not be continually heated.
csp
Well-known member
Do not pour concrete around the hydrant. It will fail eventually and you'll be tearing concrete out to replace it.
My neighbor left about a 3'x3' square in one corner of his shop in gravel, up the level of the concrete, with his hydrant in the center of the square.
My neighbor left about a 3'x3' square in one corner of his shop in gravel, up the level of the concrete, with his hydrant in the center of the square.
koditten
Well-known member
I used a freeze proof hydrant in my shop. Concrete is poured around the pipe.
These are designed to be completely rebuildable from the top side. No need to tear out concrete to fix a leaky gasket. Turn off water supply up steam and take it apart.
These are designed to be completely rebuildable from the top side. No need to tear out concrete to fix a leaky gasket. Turn off water supply up steam and take it apart.
RWorth
Well-known member
I agree with Koditton, besides, if you did have an issue down the road, it's a simple job to cut a square hole in the floor and dig it up. We used them at a camp ground, in the 7 years I was there I only replaced the seals in one hydrant,( and was done from the top with no digging.), and we had approx 30 of them in the ground..
58Yeoman
Well-known member
I put one in my last garage, but made the mistake of getting one that was short. When I bought my present place, the PO had put one outside the shop, but had water piped inside. I wish he had just put the hydrant inside. He used to blow the water lines dry in the winter, but I want water year round, though it's not heated all the time. I now use heat tape on the inside exposed pipes.
sberry
Banned
Thin the cement around it a little. Install now. Personally would get a shovel and put it "in the budget". Normally adding a water line is not a huge expense, rolled pvc and double clamps on a steel or brass barb.
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LB-1911
ALLIANCE MEMBER
As previously mentioned hydrants can be repaired from the top.
Woodford Model Y34 IOWA® Yard Hydrant Repair
Simmons Frost-Proof Yard Hydrant- Repair Kit and Plunger Replacement
How to replace a yard hydrant without digging - Yard Hydrant Made Easy
Simmons
http://www.simmonsmfg.com/index.php/our-products/hydrants/
Woodford
http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/
Yard Hydrant
http://yardhydrantmadeeasy.com/index.html
Whats your frost depth there 5 ft?
You'll just have one more connection with the hydrant installed and a section of supply line stubbed to extend to the exterior of the bldg for connection.
A 1000 ft roll of underground detectable tape is approx $60.00
While the hydrants may be rebuildable from the top things can still go wrong. I live in a cold climate where the self draining is vital. I noticed one of mine was not doing that this summer. Figured better look into it before winter so just dug it up by hand. Found the drain hole was clogged with roots.....down 4'. Nearest tree is at least 30 feet away. I would never pour concrete around one.
joe_padavano
Well-known member
The only time I've had to dig one up is when our horse-boarding tenant backed her truck into it... 
Other than that, no issues rebuilding from the top with a half dozen of these over the last 18 years. Definitely get the Woodford. The hardest part was waiting for the rebuild kit after ordering it. I got several to have spares on hand. Of course, right now I couldn't tell you where those are.
Other than that, no issues rebuilding from the top with a half dozen of these over the last 18 years. Definitely get the Woodford. The hardest part was waiting for the rebuild kit after ordering it. I got several to have spares on hand. Of course, right now I couldn't tell you where those are.
Yes it will be a freeze-proof hydrant in a non-heated garage. Thanks for all of your advice. I plan on putting the supply line 3' deep which should be sufficient for a southern Indiana climate. Can't wait to get this garage built. They start Monday!
LB-1911
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You may want to familiarize yourself with the proper installation method of the brand of hydrant your installing.
As an example - Click the Installation tab @
http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Yard_Hydrant_Pages/Model-y34.html
Carl_WI
Well-known member
I put a 3" piece of PVC in the cement for my hydrant. I preinstalled my line before I put in the slab. Dig up the yard once and get it over with.
rburke65
Well-known member
LS6Tommy.....why is this not acceptable option for water?
jedeyeben
Well-known member
I put one in mine and much like someone said about a 3x3 square opening, I cut the bottom out of a 5gal bucket and poured to that(simple, cheap, and looks clean from the top). Water to hydrant comes up from the center with another shutoff access at pump feed line below just in case. Then I back filled with septic rock to grade to allow for drainoff from the pump if needed and plenty of siphon out of the pump drain down below.
Also, as overkill because I'd hoped to never have to cut out any concrete if there was a problem, and because I buried just at our frost line. I sleeved the 1" supply line in insulation and in 2 1/2" pvc under the slab. If a problem ever occurred, at very worst, I could access the line from the exterior and just pull it back out after removing the hydrant end and refeed any new line.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also, as overkill because I'd hoped to never have to cut out any concrete if there was a problem, and because I buried just at our frost line. I sleeved the 1" supply line in insulation and in 2 1/2" pvc under the slab. If a problem ever occurred, at very worst, I could access the line from the exterior and just pull it back out after removing the hydrant end and refeed any new line.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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HoosierMark
Well-known member
When I did a garage in the 80,s I left the 3 x 3 area around the hydrant. My plumber also put a piece of galv pipe on the end of the hydrant. He said he felt it stabilized the hydrant better then connecting the pvc directly to it. I put landscape rock in the 3 x 3 area. It was great, any water just drained into the rock if I spilled some. You can always concrete it later if you want, so why not start with an opening?
PolarBearBob
Member
Hey Crew
Help and old Water/Wastewater Treatment guy here, are you talking about a hydrant in the garage for fire protection or just a high volume water source for other applications.
There are significant amount of differences between a true fire hydrant, stand pipe, sprinkler system and a high volume water source.
Just trying to understand, help me out here.
PolarBearBob
Help and old Water/Wastewater Treatment guy here, are you talking about a hydrant in the garage for fire protection or just a high volume water source for other applications.
There are significant amount of differences between a true fire hydrant, stand pipe, sprinkler system and a high volume water source.
Just trying to understand, help me out here.
PolarBearBob
rburke65
Well-known member
It's just a water source device that has its valve seat below the frost line so it doesn't freeze in the Winter. This is not a fire fighting valve fed from a water tower, or a water feed for a restaurant...... It's just water.....not a sprinkler system......just water.
scottydosnntkno
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2010
- Messages
- 670
Hey Crew
Help and old Water/Wastewater Treatment guy here, are you talking about a hydrant in the garage for fire protection or just a high volume water source for other applications.
There are significant amount of differences between a true fire hydrant, stand pipe, sprinkler system and a high volume water source.
Just trying to understand, help me out here.
PolarBearBob
Depending on where you live a 'hydrant' refers to a normal outside garden hose spigot. A hose hydrant is an interchangeable term for it
joe_padavano
Well-known member
Hey Crew
Help and old Water/Wastewater Treatment guy here, are you talking about a hydrant in the garage for fire protection or just a high volume water source for other applications.
There are significant amount of differences between a true fire hydrant, stand pipe, sprinkler system and a high volume water source.
Just trying to understand, help me out here.
PolarBearBob
The OP and others are talking about a YARD Hydrant, which is simply a frost-free hose spigot that comes up out of the ground. Typically used around horse pastures.
