Water line assitance help needed!

[SSCR]

I'm building a garage just like my old one but 7' longer and I'm putting the doors on the side.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123785

My question is that I will be running a 3" septic line and a 3/4" water line to the foundation before its being poured. Just in case I want to put a slop sink or something like that down the road. I'm pretty sure my concrete guy can just stub a capped 3" PVC pipe in the footing and slab that my septic guy can tie into and T off to my septic system that is going in behind it.

The issue I see is the water line.

I'm now living in southern Kentucky and we can get below freezing here quite a bit. I'm thinking of running a curb stop valve with drain feature below the frost line from between the garage and the main water line running to the house. The garage is in front of the home. That way I can shut the water off to the garage when I'm not using it and not worry about pipes freezing and bursting. The valve has a drain feature, when it is in the shut position it allows the water to drain from a hole in its side, or that how I think it works.... might be wrong.
https://www.muellercompany.com/site...s/media/MarkII_Oriseal_brch_form12352_web.pdf


Or I could wrap the pipe stubbed out of the slab with heat tape and pug it in when its get really cold. Or maybe put a drip on it? I was originally thinking of just installing a frost free spigot in the slab but that would look stupid specially when I tie into it.

Any thoughts on this? Any better solutions? Thanks-

 

[Fyrme]

This is how I plumbed the water supply to my shop. In the winter, I shut off the water supply and open the gate valve to drain the system. I also leave it open in case there is any water left in the line, it will be able to push the air out and expand if it needs to.

 

[joe_padavano]

This is how I plumbed the water supply to my shop. In the winter, I shut off the water supply and open the gate valve to drain the system. I also leave it open in case there is any water left in the line, it will be able to push the air out and expand if it needs to.

Exactly how I did mine also.

 

[SSCR]

Yeah! I like it! Brilliant!

 

[Verado1250]

I just went through the same dilemma. I decided to skip the shut-off valve, as I ran my water line up into the utility room where the sink, fridge, and toilet are. My thoughts were, I have to keep the utility room heated anyway for the toilet/sink/fridge ice-maker, so I just run a small ceramic heater and it stays at 65 deg when I need to run it. I seriously considered the underground shut-off valve, but read where a lot of them end up leaking within 5-10 years and I really don't want the hassle of having to dig it up and replace it. Using pex, even if it does freeze up due to a power failure, the pex will expand quite a bit before it ruptures, and if there is a power failure, I would be opening up the lines and blow them out anyway. I did put my entire 3/4" pex line in a 2" pvc conduit sleeve for if it ever does need to be replaced, it would be a simple task.

 

[SSCR]

Thanks guys, since the water would be in the first floor of the entire garage it would be tough to heat the whole area. Best would to use heat tape and plug it in when I needed it. But with 8 acres, and no nearby neighbors I don't mind digging it up if I have to service it. I think I'm going with stealing Verado's system!

 

[tomroblee]

I live in central Indiana, so I imagine that the frost line in your area isn't quite as deep. The meter pit in my front yard isn't all that deep, so I imagine your original idea would work.

I have an irrigation (sprinkler) system for my yard. It connects to the water supply to my house in the meter pit. The irrigation piping is buried less than a foot deep, so it needs to be drained before freezing weather. Compressed air is used to blow out the lines. I don't know why you couldn't do the same for the water line to your garage.

If you are going to rough in plastic plumbing before you pour the slab, consider plumbing for a bathroom (and don't forget any vent piping.) Plastic pipe is dirt cheap. Also consider running some conduit(s) for future wiring

 

[SSCR]

Great ideas, I forgot about the electric. Thanks guys!

 

[Tmct]

Doing a valve as you had originally suggested would be the correct way, the same as used on a seasonal house, also known as a stop and waste valve. They are very similar to the style of valve used by the water company, just with with drain in it. You would then put a curb box on it and be all set to just turn it off and be all set.