Water proof low temp solder connectors

[lynnbilodeau]

This looks pretty cool.
Anyone using these? Any reason not to?

Waterproof Solder Wire Connectors

Get Your 55% Discount! Features Usage Sale Comment 1h 32m 55s Features Usage Sale Comment 1h 32m 55s Waterproof Solder Wire Connectors EASY TO USE No need to crimp, just heat then complete. An easy one step connection of wires, soldered, insulated and sealed. FANTASTIC DESIGN Dual-walled design...

www.peachloft.com

 

[Galaxywide]

Yep, I use that type of connector pretty much exclusively for **** splices now (though I get mine from random Amazon vendors). They work great, never had any issues with them once installed. The only downside is that they can be a little fiddly to install, sometimes you need 3 or 4 hands to hold the heat gun, 2 wires and the connector.

 

[Firebrick43]

If used with seamless **** splices and a proper crimper for them, they are a great solution.

Aircraft and marine Raychem environmental splices are basically that. Raychems are available with and without the solder depending on the application.

If used like a lot of YouTube videos twisting the wire together and heating, no

 

[Old tool guy]

If used like a lot of YouTube videos twisting the wire together and heating, no

The data sheet shows twisting the wires together. Are you saying not to twist, or not to do it the YT way (which i have not seen).

 

[Galaxywide]

If used with seamless **** splices and a proper crimper for them, they are a great solution.

Aircraft and marine Raychem environmental splices are basically that. Raychems are available with and without the solder depending on the application.

If used like a lot of YouTube videos twisting the wire together and heating, no

Why are you crimping a solder ring?

Edit: I suspect you mean over a mechanically crimped joint, simply as a sealing and stress relief solution. That would definitely be stronger and more robust, but serious overkill for things like trailer wiring and things that don't move but are exposed to the elements.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I tried them (or some like them) and didn't like the results. I don't trust twisted wires, low grade solder and/or thin heat shrink. May as well twist the wires add a drop of paste and cover with whatever tape (masking, duct or scotch) is close by.

 

[BrandonV]

If used with seamless **** splices and a proper crimper for them, they are a great solution.

Aircraft and marine Raychem environmental splices are basically that. Raychems are available with and without the solder depending on the application.

If used like a lot of YouTube videos twisting the wire together and heating, no

100%. And if they're generic no name brand they're just pure ****. Raychem or a real brand is a must.

 

[nadogail]

Why are you crimping a solder ring?

Edit: I suspect you mean over a mechanically crimped joint, simply as a sealing and stress relief solution. That would definitely be stronger and more robust, but serious overkill for things like trailer wiring and things that don't move but are exposed to the elements.

To make a secure mechanical connection before soldering the joint.

 

[duneslider]

I have used literally hundreds of these and had zero issue with any of them. I have a bunch of them on christmas lights that are out in the weather for months through the winter and have zero issues. I am talking the cheap chinesium stuff here, they are totally fine and I will use them on any of the stuff I own. I also find a heat gun is more reliable than going the lighter route.

Now, I have used the raychem and some other pro grade stuff and it is for sure very nice. If I was doing super high tech stuff like working on airplanes or something exposed to maybe ocean atmosphere then sure, go with that nicer stuff. But around the house and in my jeeps the chinese stuff is totally fine.

I am also a guy who will crimp and solder connections and I know that triggers all sorts of people too, someones gonna jump on here and tell me how NASA only crimps and doesn't solder anything and soldering is like kicking the dog. I guess its good I don't build rocketships cause I'm gonna solder all my stuff and guess what none of them ever have had issues...I will keep that in mind if the jeep ever needs to go to space.

 

[BrandonV]

I am also a guy who will crimp and solder connections and I know that triggers all sorts of people too, someones gonna jump on here and tell me how NASA only crimps and doesn't solder anything and soldering is like kicking the dog. I guess its good I don't build rocketships cause I'm gonna solder all my stuff and guess what none of them ever have had issues...I will keep that in mind if the jeep ever needs to go to space.

I've worked on space hardware that used a mixture of soldering & crimping.

Hilariously the old adage of soldering after crimping dates back to when people used to crimp stuff with their lineman's... not a proper crimping tool. It was a bandage for using the improper tool in the first place.

Many years ago, my Civic died in a parking lot. Tearing the dash apart I discovered it was because of some junky aftermarket alarm the dealer installed. I repaired the wiring harness with a Posi-Lock. Never got around to fixing it with a crimp or solder. The next owner of the car I've kept in touch with and hasn't run into an issue yet.

If your application isn't critical damn near anything will work. The worst thing I think I've seen is someone who repaired fuel injector wiring with paperclips and lamp cord. That is a totally different animal than a Chinese crimp .

 

[WildBill]

I've worked on space hardware that used a mixture of soldering & crimping.

Hilariously the old adage of soldering after crimping dates back to when people used to crimp stuff with their lineman's... not a proper crimping tool. It was a bandage for using the improper tool in the first place.

Many years ago, my Civic died in a parking lot. Tearing the dash apart I discovered it was because of some junky aftermarket alarm the dealer installed. I repaired the wiring harness with a Posi-Lock. Never got around to fixing it with a crimp or solder. The next owner of the car I've kept in touch with and hasn't run into an issue yet.

If your application isn't critical damn near anything will work. The worst thing I think I've seen is someone who repaired fuel injector wiring with paperclips and lamp cord. That is a totally different animal than a Chinese crimp .

We have installed and sold thousands of lighting control modules for Harleys connected with Posi-Lock products, never had an issue. I use them for everything that is not going to be under water, they are really great. I have also done a lot of remote start and stereo installs with the Posi-Taps, works great and no tools needed.

 

[bwringer]

I'll agree -- Posi-Lock connectors have been pretty much bulletproof in my experience, mostly in the harsh environments of motorcycles. They are bulky and expensive, but you don't need crimpers or tools and they're pretty much foolproof. I carry a few in my motorcycle tool kit, but they're perfectly appropriate for permanent repairs and modifications.



It's weird... some people love those melty solder things, some hate them.

I'm in the "very disappointed" camp.

I've tried, really I have, with a few different brands, even the expensive ones. The essential problem is that in the real world there's a very narrow heat range between melting the solder completely and damaging the heat shrink. It takes a lot more heat than just glue-lined heat shrink, and too often you don't have 360 degree access and the plastic starts dripping before half the solder ring melts.

If you're making a demonstration connection for YouTube, where you have access to all sides and you can move it around easily to ensure even heating, then great.

But even with a heat shield and nozzle, it's damn near unpossible to walk that fine line in many real-world situations where you don't have full access. And with other wires and stuff nearby, it's also waaaay too easy to damage something else; these connectors take a LOT of heat.

The other problem is with the low-temp solder. If the connection might ever conceivably get hot again, through current + resistance or environment, these aren't appropriate. because the solder could re-melt.

So for stuff like trailer lighting, sure, go ahead. Anywhere near an engine, and/or with potentially high current, or somewhere really crowded, use something else.

I have a lot of options on hand, but the glue-lined heat shrink crimp connectors, with the CORRECT ratcheting crimper specifically for heat shrink connectors, have become my go-to for vehicle wiring. I also use a lot of high-quality crimp connectors with the correct matching ratcheting crimper, along with heat shrink tubing to protect the wires and create strain relief.

 

[PWC Repair]

These are the ONLY wire splice option I use on watercraft. The trick in cramped places is aluminum foil around other wires. Using a lighter or mini torch, do NOT let the flame touch the plastic. Let the heat do the job. Once the solder is melted, stop and let it cool a bit. THEN, you can twist the wire around to seal the heat shrink when you can't access all around it.

 

[Firebrick43]

The data sheet shows twisting the wires together. Are you saying not to twist, or not to do it the YT way (which i have not seen).

I am saying use an uninsulated **** with proper crimpers and then slide the tube on and heat.

They are not as nice as raychems but they are a hell of a lot cheaper. Nice copper **** splices are
20 or 30 cents each. Get the kind with a hole in the center so the solder wicks in there.

https://www.amazon.com/Panduit-BS14-C-****-Splice-Non-Insulated/dp/B00B5MS25M?tag=atomicindus08-20