Water Seeping Through Block Walls

[Gil Rubio]

Hello,

I am in the process of setting up my garage and wanted to get some suggestions on a problem I am having.

The garage was built right up against 2 other building. The front and the right side are completely exposed. A few months ago, sometime after it was built, I noticed moisture on the inside of the exposed walls and just above where the other building roof line ends. I was considering painting the parts of the walls where water is coming though with drylock. From all the research I've done it seems that the drylock should be applied on the outside. The problem is that I cant really access those areas and the mortar wasn't smoothed out there either. So I'm not sure how effective it would be.

The amount of water coming through isn't really substantial but I do want to paint the walls. I am concerned that the paint would peel in those areas if left untreated.

Any suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks

 

[The Cobbler]

..... ... and the mortar wasn't smoothed out there either. ....
Thanks

there's your problem. if the mortar isn't jointed (tooled) it's not water proof

 

[Dirtydan69]

Is mortor really water proof? I don’t think so. It may be more water resistant when tooled but not water proof.

 

[Gil Rubio]

there's your problem. if the mortar isn't jointed (tooled) it's not water proof

Interesting point. I didn't consider that. The mortar completely fills the joints its just sticking out some. Unfortunately i don't really see how this could be fixed since its so close to the other wall. There would be no way to fit in between.

Also, the larger exposed side was tooled and there is water coming through there as well (actually more since its completely exposed).

 

[The Cobbler]

ok, so maybe water resistant would be better terminology, in any instance, if the joint is not tooled it will leak

 

[LS6 Tommy]

If I had a brand new garage and there was moisture or water coming in up near the roof line, I wouldn't be doing anything other than calling the builder, then later on maybe my lawyer if needed.

Tommy

 

[Bretny]

Concrete isnt water proof. Do something with the outside not the inside.

Any pics of the exterior?

 

[Gil Rubio]

I updated the original post with pictures. I would have to get onto my neighbors property to get a shot of the exterior side where the water is coming from. I will try to get one later on.

 

[malibu101]

I don't not know 'nothin about masonry. But on tooling the joints---
There are a couple of houses (not new) near me that have "weeping" joints. I thought they looked undone (which they are) but it is a design feature.
I'd guess tooling the mortar in is great, but apparently buildings are standing for years without doing it.

Random net pic of what I'm talking about-

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I updated the original post with pictures. I would have to get onto my neighbors property to get a shot of the exterior side where the water is coming from. I will try to get one later on.

All that white staining is called "Efflorescence" and it's a sign of water intrusion. Just how major the problem may be needs to be investigated. Either way, it should not be happening up by the roof on a new structure.

Tommy

 

[PAToyota]

A single wythe concrete masonry unit (CMU) wall is by no means waterproof, water resistant, or water anything...


Typically you do a brick or decorative CMU veneer, insulation, air/moisture/vapor barrier, and then the CMU structural wall. Like this:

If all you have is a single wythe CMU wall then yes, you're going to get water through it.

 

[dave_dj1]

There are two products, one is called Dry Lok, it's a water proofing paint.
The second is a product developed by the military to hold dry laid blocks together and make them water tight, it's called Block Bond.

 

[Bretny]

It dosnt matter where the water is coming from you need to address it outside. Painting the interior will just allow the block to rott over time.

 

[maxpat82]

as said by other: outside is the place the protection must go., brick concrete and mortar are not waterproof materials.

 

[strutaeng]

I bet it's coming from the roof/wall line. That looks like a low-slope roof and probably doesn't have an eave/overhang. No drip edge?

The water just runs down the wall and is weeping inside.

If that's the case, probably apply an elastomeric coating.

OP, let's see the outside. What does the roof look like?

 

[Gil Rubio]

I bet it's coming from the roof/wall line. That looks like a low-slope roof and probably doesn't have an eave/overhang. No drip edge?

The water just runs down the wall and is weeping inside.

If that's the case, probably apply an elastomeric coating.

OP, let's see the outside. What does the roof look like?

Your spot on about the roof. Its does have a low slope towards the front where there is a large gutter running the width of the garage. This was actually something I thought about at the beginning but for some reason completely forgot to check out last time it rained.

Here is an older pic of it from the top. The downspouts have been installed since that picture.

 

[strutaeng]

Your spot on about the roof. Its does have a low slope towards the front where there is a large gutter running the width of the garage. This was actually something I thought about at the beginning but for some reason completely forgot to check out last time it rained.

Here is an older pic of it from the top. The gutters have been installed since that picture.

You mean gutters weren't on there when water started to seep in? I see gutters on that picture. The large door must the low side of the roof. Where was the photo of leak taken? Same area?

Are you in the States or Canada? What kind of roof is that? It looks like a modified bitumen but I don't see the laps?

So the exterior is just CMU with like a cementitous coating. I think they call that parging (parge coat?)

I'd say the flashing at the roof was not installed correctly. Water is getting in at the edge and running down the wall.

 

[strutaeng]

I also see another roof directly adjacent on the North and West (I see what you were saying in your initial post.) Flashing at these intersections are likely the first areas to leak. Can you get up there to snap a photo?

 

[Gil Rubio]

You mean gutters weren't on there when water started to seep in? I see gutters on that picture. The large door must the low side of the roof. Where was the photo of leak taken? Same area?

Are you in the States or Canada? What kind of roof is that? It looks like a modified bitumen but I don't see the laps?

So the exterior is just CMU with like a cementitous coating. I think they call that parging (parge coat?)

I'd say the flashing at the roof was not installed correctly. Water is getting in at the edge and running down the wall.

Sorry I meant to say that the downspouts have since been installed. I am in NJ. The water is coming in on the west wall above the other roof and the east wall. When i get home i will try to get a shot of the east wall. It is not finished like the front is, just exposed block. I think your right about the water pouring over. The water lines are just below where the flashing ends on both sides.

 

[Chaznsc]

Dig a test pit outside that wall, identify the source first.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

Spray the blocks with a product called “professional water sealant pws-super” by professional products. I have helped probably a hundred customers with water troubles by simply water sealing the wall

Google it

It will prevent water for absorbing into the blocks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[acer66]

Friend had great success with dry lock and I installed an underground umbrella to dry out a half basement which also worked very good but as said before you need to figure out where the water is coming from first.
Simple grading can do wonders, I often go outside when it rains to see how it runs off.

 

[OP15]

I am not familiar what is an underground umbrella?

 

[acer66]

That is just how I call it, underground membrane is a more proper term.
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/cad/detail/underground-water-barrier-retrofit-rubber-membrane

 

[Gil Rubio]

On a side note:

The west and north walls are up against other buildings. Would it be worth putting up foam board insulation under vinyl siding on the south wall and 3/4 of the east wall?

There is a fence up against the east wall. I have all the supplies to do the job except the insulation.

Will putting in insulation on just those walls make a difference since i cant do the other parts? Wold it be worth the price of the insulation?

 

[strutaeng]

On a side note:

The west and north walls are up against other buildings. Would it be worth putting up foam board insulation under vinyl siding on the south wall and 3/4 of the east wall?

There is a fence up against the east wall. I have all the supplies to do the job except the insulation.

Will putting in insulation on just those walls make a difference since i cant do the other parts? Wold it be worth the price of the insulation?

What about the water seeping in? This is unrelated to the water infiltration, right? Or, are you trying to stop the water with the siding?

Any insulation is better than no insulation if you are conditioning the space inside. You can also insulate from the inside, much the same way basements are insulated.