Water separator, coalescing filter, dessicant filter, etc. - what to use??

[myredracer]

I am just about to set up the piping and air "treatment" for my home shop. Have a 60 gallon upright, 3-cylinder, 1-stage compressor rated at 18.5 cfm at 90 psi. Not sure if it really does put out 18.5 cfm but it will keep my die grinder running continuously at 90 psi (on testing). I am going to have two drops, one for air tools and the other for clean air for blasting, painting, etc. Not sure if I will get a plasma cutter.

Trying to figure out what filters and how to dry the air has been rather confusing and the internet has not yielded any really good recommendations (at least to me).

I am going to build a condenser using 3/4" copper pipe to remove some of the moisture. Will be around 30' or maybe more. I have some lengths of 3/4" left over so makes sense to use it. The rest of the piping runs would be 1/2" copper.

For dry/clean air I was thinking of first an IR water separator with 5 micron filter as in the 1st pic.

The next filter is the confusing one for me. I was thinking of either a Motor Guard CO4515 coalescing filter or their M-60 or maybe even the MC-100. The coalescing filter only removes oil though and is that vapor and/or droplets? Does it remove anything else? The M-60 removes oil vapor but not oil droplets. The MC-100 removes oil, silicone and organic vapor plus VOCs. Is the MC-100 simply the best choice? (Doesn't cost much more anyway.)

The last thing in the line would be a dessicant bead dryer like in the 2nd pic which is a Princess Auto item. It's 30" tall and 2" dia. Do these things work good enough for a home shop? It bought it 10+ years ago and used it once. It's rusty inside - clean with wire brush and then use rust converter?

Would this be okay for a home shop? Should I install a separate regulator for blasting versus painting or just adjust a single one as needed? Same question I guess for air tools and blow gun?

For air tools, I would use an "air control unit". I have a no-name brand one that is identical to the Sharpe 880A in 3rd pic. I may or may not use an automatic oiler that I already have.

My compressor does not seem to have an air dump valve and I would like to add an automatic electric one. Would this go at the pressure switch location?

I am otherwise okay on the piping layout.

Thanks!

 

[sberry]

You are right the net is confusing. It seems there is no shortage of brainstorms. A single regulator can work for a small shop, you got free 3/4 use it, 1/2 is plenty volume wise. skip any automatic oiler and see how well a simple filter works. You refer to this as "good enough for home use" I have paint, don't have any special equipment on it. No motogaurd no co filter.

The next filter is the confusing one for me. I was thinking of either a Motor Guard CO4515 coalescing filter or their M-60 or maybe even the MC-100. The coalescing filter only removes oil though and is that vapor and/or droplets? Does it remove anything else? The M-60 removes oil vapor but not oil droplets. The MC-100 removes oil, silicone and organic vapor plus VOCs. Is the MC-100 simply the best choice? (Doesn't cost much more anyway

Skip all this **** till you figure you need it.

 

[Denwood]

This is my dual drop, dual compressor setup. Photos mostly on page 9: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263351&page=9

One of the pics:

 

[redmondjp]

One key thing to do, for the water separator, is to put it as close to the point of use as possible. You want the air to cool down after it leaves the compressor, causing the water to come out of the air, and then catch it at the end of the line.

I have mine right at the compressor, and it doesn't do a very good job there. That will change, someday!

 

[Kaizen]

with that copper run it either around the shop or back and forth always pitched up traveling away from the compressor. have a drain leg near the compressor of about a foot with a drain on the end. as the air cools you will get a good amount back and not in your filter. I also have another at the end of the line and back a foot I have an upside down J that my air comes from.

 

[matt_i]

The air tank drain should be in the bottom of the tank. It will not work in the sidewall where the outlet is (assuming 60gal upright type).

In my opinion, a regular cyclonic airline filter is good enough filtration for air tools. I would never add a lubricator unless you are running a production line or are running air tools for 4+ hours out of ever 8. Just put a drop in the tool inlet every time you use it...plenty of lubrication plus the hoses never get contaminated.

If you are painting, I'd go first with the cyclonic, then coalescing and then with dessicant. The beads can be baked dry over and over in an electric oven at low temps (around 200F).

 

[elba]

Here is what I did to keep the compressed air cool. I removed the compressed air supply line from the compressor and plumbed it to 2 automotive A/C condensers in series and plumbed a line from the condenser to the tank. It cools the compressed air really good. I don't have any temp numbers but my finger touching the lines tell me that it is cool. I live in a very hot, high humidity area ( Southern Alabama on the Fla. border ).

 

[finn]

The air tank drain should be in the bottom of the tank. It will not work in the sidewall where the outlet is (assuming 60gal upright type).

).

Not true. Some compressors have a side mounted drain that functions well. Champion is one example, although there may be more.

The valve is connectet to the bottom of the tank (inside) by a hose. Opening the valve on a pressurized tank allows the air pressure to force the water up the hose and out the valve.

A user is much more likely to drain the tank if it is convenient to do do. A side mounted drain is easier and more convenient than getting on one's hands and knees to open a bottom mounted drain.