This is an odd circumstance but my new garage is just being finished and we had 5" of hard rain in 24 hours. To give a little background, I dug footings then had the mason lay 2' of block on top. Then I did the DIY waterproofing with tar. Needless to say, I went out to the garage this morning and the floor was wet where it was seeping throught the walls. That doesn't really concern me to much because of the large amount of rain and how rare it is, but does make me wonder what the conditions will be inside the garage. I plan to insulate and heat/ac with a wall unit. I would like to drywall above the block but worry about what kind of conditions it needs. Does anyone have experience with this? Thanks
Water through wall foundation
- Thread starter JUSTA50
- Start date
I do not have gutters on the garage yet. I will be adding them this weekend. That I'm sure will help prevent the majority of water entering.
I'm not familiar with draintile? I'll have to google that one.
I don't think there will be a water issue once the gutters are in place. There may be a little moisture entering on a down pour. I wonder/worry about the effects of moisture and dry wall. I wonder if I should put up the green moisture resistant drywall even though it won't come into contact with water.
I'm not familiar with draintile? I'll have to google that one.
I don't think there will be a water issue once the gutters are in place. There may be a little moisture entering on a down pour. I wonder/worry about the effects of moisture and dry wall. I wonder if I should put up the green moisture resistant drywall even though it won't come into contact with water.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
When the floor was poured did you lay down a vapor barrier? If not, then you might have a moisture problem there also. Is the foundation sealed all the way down to the footers and how far up to the top is it sealed? 5" is a lot of water and it may just be a freak thing, but if you want to be on the safe side do as Justa50 stated and use the moisture resistant drywall. It is not waterproof, but average moisture now and then will not bother it. On the other hand, it could be a once or twice a year thing and regular drywall would be fine as long as it does not come in contact with water.
One other thing.......on your blocks......do you have concrete filled blocks on the top course or solid blocks?
And gutters will make a world of difference.
One other thing.......on your blocks......do you have concrete filled blocks on the top course or solid blocks?
And gutters will make a world of difference.
I did not lay down a moisture barrier and have noticed on a warmer rainy day the floor was damp. I'm hoping a/c and heat will regulate the moisture issue. I sealed the foundation somewhat from the footings up to the top of the block where I backfilled dirt. I think to be safe I will use the green sheetrock. For the block, I filled the corners out about 5' in either direction and the center section of block is hollow. On the bottom row of block he used solid block at the foundation. Thanks for the info.
rieferman
Well-known member
gutters will definitely make a huge difference.. you can google to find some calculators that show how much rain a roof collects, it's a staggering number whenever I've done the calculation.
also, if you're concerned about it, consider osb or plywood on the walls. A ton of members here have done it. If you're concerned about the look of it, a ton of members have done lots of creative things to make such walls look really nice - and I'd argue that all of their tricks were still easier than mudding drywall.
Good luck! (also, pics pics pics.. we all like pics)
also, if you're concerned about it, consider osb or plywood on the walls. A ton of members here have done it. If you're concerned about the look of it, a ton of members have done lots of creative things to make such walls look really nice - and I'd argue that all of their tricks were still easier than mudding drywall.
Good luck! (also, pics pics pics.. we all like pics)
ddawg16
Well-known member
A good example of why we have the building codes we do.....I would be willing to bet that you didn't have the foundation inspected before you poured? Let me guess....no permits required?
Without that vapor barrier under the foundation, you are going to have moisture problems....heat and AC seems like an expensive way to reduce it....because it won't stop it....
Not ragging on you....but in the process of building my garage this past year, I have gotten a new appreciation for the building codes and why we have them....
Without that vapor barrier under the foundation, you are going to have moisture problems....heat and AC seems like an expensive way to reduce it....because it won't stop it....
Not ragging on you....but in the process of building my garage this past year, I have gotten a new appreciation for the building codes and why we have them....
Actually it was a permit build and required. I'm no builder but just finished my 2500 sq ft house and now the garage (passed all inspections the first round). The issue came because I poured my driveway and decided later to add a garage at the end (I realize your wonderful state would probably make you submit plans, then wait 4 months so they could save up enough money to pay someone to approve them, but this isn’t Cali).
My drive is 6"-8" thick in that area so I dug footings around the square 12x12 (which is code). Then water proofed the footings to the block. I knew there could be moisture issues at that weak point and if it rains 5" I'll have to deal with it again. Oh well.
Oh and ddawg...another good example of why you shouldn't think... It hurts the team.
My drive is 6"-8" thick in that area so I dug footings around the square 12x12 (which is code). Then water proofed the footings to the block. I knew there could be moisture issues at that weak point and if it rains 5" I'll have to deal with it again. Oh well.
Oh and ddawg...another good example of why you shouldn't think... It hurts the team.
If the water is truly seeping through the wall then you can add a parge coating to improve the waterproofing of the block. Also, make sure your finished grade provides positive drainage away from all foundation walls.
As far as the vapor barrier discussion above goes, I know for a fact that a vapor barrier is not required by the building code here in NC for a non-heated, non-living space such as a garage. That said, I still would say it's a good idea to put one in anyway.
As far as the vapor barrier discussion above goes, I know for a fact that a vapor barrier is not required by the building code here in NC for a non-heated, non-living space such as a garage. That said, I still would say it's a good idea to put one in anyway.
pattenp
Well-known member
We’re having about 6+” of rain right now from Ida. My garage is 2 feet below grade on one side and the inside of the block wall is dry as a bone. Reason is I parged the block with Portland cement then installed water proof membrane then put in slotted drain pipe with a silt sock and back filled with gravel. That’s the best way to make sure you don’t have water seepage.
gahrajmahal
Well-known member
My house is set into a hillside, built in the 60's. 5 years of summer drought caused the foundation to settle and crack. The basement was finished with furring strips nailed to the pored foundation, 1" fiberglass insulation. Covered with 3/8 plywood and that lovely panneling. Any wall covering will mildue and grow mold if allowed to get wet. Also, it will attract termites and other bugs. They will eat up any paper or wood items in your garage. Also your tools and other metal ie. cars, motorcycles, lawn equipment will rust up. To fix my basement, all the walls were removed, the cracks professionally repaired with a flexible urethane product and the walls were then painted with Dry-lock waterproofing paint. Outside new 5" wide gutters and the largest downspouts were installed (still doesn't help much as the new leaf guards get covered with leaves and the water goes over them). Rather than having the drain tiles replaced ( backhoe, tear out gardening & $20,000.00) I dug 2 ft. deep ditch at the gutter line all around the house, lined it with heavy duty plastic. Put in 4" slotted drain pipe with silt sock. Covered this with gravel and piled the dirt against the foundation sloping to this ditch. I left the basement open for a year before putting in 2 x 4 stud walls (pressure treated sill plate). I covered the floor with a vapor barrier cushioned underlayment and covered with engineered click wood flooring. So far - so good. I think the best solution to my problem has been the drain pipe and sloping the dirt away from the foundation. It has been a particularly rainy summer and it has not even been very humid downstairs. Good luck with your project!
benjamming
Well-known member
ddawg16
Well-known member
Ok....I'm going to try this again....but I'll forgo any insulting comments....the last time it got me banned for a couple of days and 5 'bad' points. I do appolgize to the OP for the one comment that was taken as an insult....not necessary on my part...
If I am reading this properly, the garage was built 'after' everything else, and no permit pulled for the garage 'added at the end'? Hence, no inspection of the garage?
This is where the problem between me and the OP started....my original post to the OP made comments to the importance of building codes and permits....why the OP felt the need to make an unqualified statement regarding CA eludes me....for the record, it was 2 days from submittal of plans till approval....no where close to the 4 month claim....
So the question is....was the garage permitted? And inspected? I find it hard to believe that no vapor barier was required.
I guess this is the one comment that resulted in my 'insulting' comment. One would almost 'think' that this could be construed as an insult as well.
So...back to the original point....which is important.....was it built to code?
And, what kind of DIY sealing? Knowing the answer could help others from making the same mistake.
If I am reading this properly, the garage was built 'after' everything else, and no permit pulled for the garage 'added at the end'? Hence, no inspection of the garage?
This is where the problem between me and the OP started....my original post to the OP made comments to the importance of building codes and permits....why the OP felt the need to make an unqualified statement regarding CA eludes me....for the record, it was 2 days from submittal of plans till approval....no where close to the 4 month claim....
So the question is....was the garage permitted? And inspected? I find it hard to believe that no vapor barier was required.
I guess this is the one comment that resulted in my 'insulting' comment. One would almost 'think' that this could be construed as an insult as well.
So...back to the original point....which is important.....was it built to code?
And, what kind of DIY sealing? Knowing the answer could help others from making the same mistake.
Daniel Dudley
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2009
- Messages
- 3,546
Humidity problems are not fun. Google up Radonseal. A good product and a very informative web site.
Sloping the landscape and adding gutters sounds like a good thing to do. Threads like this are important, because we can all learn from these types of mistakes.
I've been building for 30 years, and usually the day I think I know it all is the day I screw up.
No, really.
Sloping the landscape and adding gutters sounds like a good thing to do. Threads like this are important, because we can all learn from these types of mistakes.
I've been building for 30 years, and usually the day I think I know it all is the day I screw up.
No, really.
z28snksknr
Well-known member
There are sealers that will help seal the block form the inside (garage). Seems like a cheap answer to your problem, although I would certainly recommend better water management around the building as a first measure.
In regards to drywall, I'm pretty sure you are supposed to leave a 1/2" gap between the block and the bottom of the drywall to prevent moisture from wicking up the drywall. Pressure treated wood should also be used anywhere it touches concrete as well for the same reason.
In regards to drywall, I'm pretty sure you are supposed to leave a 1/2" gap between the block and the bottom of the drywall to prevent moisture from wicking up the drywall. Pressure treated wood should also be used anywhere it touches concrete as well for the same reason.
Wow, that's a lot of quotes. So you've been banned for a few days and the first thing you do is come in here and visit. Don't I feel special.
Anyway, ddawg...To clear up your questions, THIS WAS A PERMIT BUILD AND PASSED INSPECTION. When I said the issue (that being moisture) came when I poured my driveway then built the garage at the "end" I was refering to the end of the driveway. Next to the house. Your reading to much into it.
This past weekend has been busy. I moved dirt around, installed a french drain around most of the garage to deflect water, and added gutters. Weatherman says we will have rain all day today so the test will begin. I'll let everyone know how it turns out. Thanks again for the wonderful tips.
Anyway, ddawg...To clear up your questions, THIS WAS A PERMIT BUILD AND PASSED INSPECTION. When I said the issue (that being moisture) came when I poured my driveway then built the garage at the "end" I was refering to the end of the driveway. Next to the house. Your reading to much into it.
This past weekend has been busy. I moved dirt around, installed a french drain around most of the garage to deflect water, and added gutters. Weatherman says we will have rain all day today so the test will begin. I'll let everyone know how it turns out. Thanks again for the wonderful tips.
Lippyp
Well-known member
I was going to suggest a french drain as they work well. Its something I need to do along the back wall of my house in France as currently the (rubble cored random stone/lime mortar) wall gets damp as its below ground level by a foot or two. Originally the ground floor was used for animals so it wouldn't have been an issue back then but I want to turn it into living space. The concrete floor I had put in does have a membrane under it and its never damp and the walls have gotten a lot better since having the walls repointed and putting up guttering. Its amazing how much water comes pouring out of the downspout in even light rain.