Water to shop and sprinkler system

[Hurricanoday]

I have some questions about running water to my shop. Right now I have a line that goes from the well house to some sprinklers on the hill where the previous owner use to keep all his trees and flowers for his landscaping business.


The line was broke because when we would turn the sprinklers on they would barely work and our driveway would flood. So this weekend I got the tractor out and dug up the line, it was broken and I assume because it wasn't down deep enough.

Anyways I would like to "Y" "wye"?? it off (see attached) and run a line to the shop while fixing the line going to sprinkler. I would need constant to the shop but I would like to set something up for the sprinklers. Something easy for the wife to do and eventually get it set up on a timer for her garden on the hill.

I don't want a valve in the middle of the driveway and the first sprinkler is broken so I am thinking I will just run a new line from the Y (black square) to the first sprinkler and put in a spigot.

How would I turn off the water for the sprinklers? there are 3 valves in the well house, 1 for the house water, 1 for the sprinklers and one for the 2 barn spigots. So the shop/sprinklers are on the same valve.

You can see the sprinklers on the hill in the second picture. They are all down the driveway and I don't need all of them.

 

[ard]

Given what you are planning, that valve in the well house for the sprinkler, becomes the new "shop valve".


Throw some PVC conduit into the trench, from shop to wherever you put the first spigot/valve out by the first sprinkler. (note, that shop looks like a 'future' deal? If so, you could also run conduit from shop to house, and then that timer/remote could be located in the house- not out at the shop.)

Then, in the future, you can add a 12V sprinkler valve out in the field, but control it with a timer/controller inside the shop or house/garage. You can also add a 'manifold', with many (2,3 ...20) sprinkler valves- each can be turned on and off remotely and control water going to trees, garden, etc

 

[Hurricanoday]

Do you have a link to what to you are referring to? The shop is there just isn't updated on google maps. I never thought about running water from the shop to the sprinkler. Seems I would still have the same problem of needing a wye to run to the sprinklers and me still bring ignorant of how to get it set up

 

[ard]

Yes, you need a Wye. That much is a fact.

Since you want water all the time at the shop, then the line out to the sprinkler will also be pressurized all the time.

The only solution (which lets someone control the water from the house/shop or well) is to put a remotely controlled valve out there. HOWEVER, you need to be able to control the valve. Control cables are simple direct bury (I run it in conduit anyway). 7 pieces of #16 wire will let me control 6 values

Here is one of many valves- HD, Lowes sell these by the truckload (maybe not in WA, but definitely here in CA)

https://jet.com/product/detail/fd7e...371866_pla-295233352259:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15


Here is a pre made manifold- your main line comes into a on/off valve, then into one end of this:
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...2206757&lsft=gclid:COrttrHUm9MCFQ92fgod8TgLKA



Your problem will be how to get the wires out to the valves.....since it is low voltage it can lay on the ground, or just under the surface. But not a very stable nor long term solution.

Alternatively, skip the remote valves and just put one or more valves in the ground or on a post out at the first sprinkler location- someone will have to walk out there to operate them.






I think I am getting confused...I don't uYou don't need to run water from the "shop to sprinklers". - once pipe is connected the water

 

[Thumper68]

What I would do is run the water supply to the shop, tee off that with a valve and run to sprinklers, then you have 1 valve in the shop to turn on sprinklers.

No need to get complicated with this.

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ This. However, I'm thinking there are other IMPROVEMENTS that are needed.

Do you have setup to blow out (w/ compressed air) the sprinkler system lines BEFORE winter ??

How deep are water supply lines buried ?? What material ??

How long will the run be from well house to garage ?? Size of pipe ?? Pressure ??

 

[tjdux]

^ ^ ^ This. However, I'm thinking there are other IMPROVEMENTS that are needed.

Do you have setup to blow out (w/ compressed air) the sprinkler system lines BEFORE winter ??

How deep are water supply lines buried ?? What material ??

How long will the run be from well house to garage ?? Size of pipe ?? Pressure ??

For under ground sprinklers they make auto drains that work like a check valve. When there is pressure the drains close and when the pressure stops it opens allowing water to drain out. This is suposed to remove the need for draining in the winter.

I have them on my underground sprinklers and they work but they tend to fail after 3-5b years. I use rainbird brand.

Second solution is a purge valve at the end of the sprinklers. No need for compressed air. Just get the majority of the water out of the line and then it can feeeze and should be ok.

Third solution is to replace it all with PEX as that stuff is hard to break and is supposed to handle freezing.

As far as water lines and how to run them....

My first suggestion is to start over and use underground pex with stainless fittings.

Run 2 lines one to shop and 1 for sprinklers. Shop one is simple standard stuff.

For sprinklers you will want to buy a sprinkler timer. These mount in the house or shop near where the water exits the building. Google underground sprinkler timer or go to HD or Lowes or whatever your choice of hardware store and they will likely have an entire isle of this stuff. It will be there. They come in different zone sizes (ie 4, 8, 12) and that controls how many valves you can run.

To control the valves you need sprinkler wire. Its in the same isle. It's direct burial and can go right in thr trench with the supply line.

The valves are low voltage solinoids that open and close the flow of water and are electronically controlled by the timer unit. Set up the timer once and its basically good forever. The valves do need a valve control box. These are just heavy plastic boxes that allow you to service the valve.

Basically you might as well rent a trencher. Any rental store worth its salt will have small walk behind trenchers for decent money. If i was doing i would pony up and do the whole yard. Do you garden? Get the 12 zone and run 3 or 4 zones to yoir garden and a valve box there to make automatic garden watering with soaker hose drip irragation.

Plan B... put a tee in your driveway. Run it to the shop. Put the timer in the shop. Run another line right on top of the shop line back to the driveway that runs the sprinklers on timer.

Either way rent the trencher unless you already have one. Even a backhoe makes a much bigger trench then needed. And since you have it anyways might as well do it all or at least any part of the yard you want landscaped.

Good luck and sorry for the extra long post.

Signiture; Check out my garage progress http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352703

 

[Captain Spaulding]

Your sprinkler line is not clean unless there are parts out away from the well house to prevent backflow. You really don't want to mix sprinkler lines and your potable water supply.

 

[ard]

If OP is trenching, then there are many other options.

His post said ALL he wanted to do was fix the leak and install a wye.

OP- two questions:

1. Will you be renting a trencher or otherwise digging trench and laying new pipe?

2. Your frost depth is 12" there. Is the current line deeper than 12"? Any valves will need to be in the ground (you can install a access box) so they don't freeze.

Someone cautioned about mixing shop/potable water and sprinkler- jsut install anti backflow sprinkler valves... The link above from jet.com shows one.