Water trap for compressed air

[ChunkyLover53]

I was wondering if anyone has recommendations for a good water trap for a compressed air setup. I have tried a couple harbor freight ones and they seem to leak and blow seals on me a lot.

I position the trap about 50 feet of line away from the compressor. It will never really see above 165 psi.

Thanks

 

[Hawk Thor]

We sometimes get condensation from the airlines at work (Ship yard.) We don't have tanks to collect moisture in, 3 big screw compressors supply the shops with air.

I removed a °90 elbow-fitting by my workbench and replaced it with a T-fitting. It was on a pipe that came down from high on the wall and to about 5' off the floor. I reinstalled the pipe to the coupler facing °90 from the floor (Just like it was before.), so I now had one opening of the T pointing down.

I took a 16" long piece of 2" galvanized pipe and put reducers on it to connect it to the 1/2" T by my bench. On the other end of the pipe I put more reducers and a 3/8" ball valve. A barb fitting and short hose lead the water from the valve and into a container of my choice.

Now the air has stopped coming out the coupler and I periodically check the trap. I just close the valve on the run to my bench, release the pressure via my air-gun and then drain the trap.

 

[ChunkyLover53]

My bad, I probably should have said water separator. Something like this.

But I was wondering if any of you had real success with certain ones.

 

[V70R]

I use a Devilbiss Finishline, HAR-602, may be a tad overkill for home use but I wanted to run and filter effectively with an HVLP in our humidity. Air elements/filters are cheap, and solid construction. Drain the tank compressor and inline filter daily and it has been problem-free. Keep them as far away from the compressor, like what you have planned and it will filter great. HTH

Honda V-band B series mani I see?

 

[Thunderbisciut]

I run a Motor Guard AF-4510:

Followed by an CO-4515 Coalescing Filter:

Followed by an RG-4520 Regulator:

Followed by an ARO 1000 Series Lubricator:

I should mention that I have a quick disconnect after the regulator so that I can pull off the oiler and hose to switch to my clean hose for things that need it.

I like the Motor Guard stuff, it's not too expensive, and it's pretty nice. The water filter can be had around $50-60. You could also go with an M60 filter that a lot of people use as a final filter near the tool. It uses cartridges that look like toilet paper rolls, and filter really really well. If I was doing a lot of painting or blasting,that's what I would run as well in addition to my setup.

 

[CNGsaves]

I run a Motor Guard AF-4510:

Followed by an CO-4515 Coalescing Filter:

Followed by an RG-4520 Regulator:

Followed by an ARO 1000 Series Lubricator:

I should mention that I have a quick disconnect after the regulator so that I can pull off the oiler and hose to switch to my clean hose for things that need it.

I like the Motor Guard stuff, it's not too expensive, and it's pretty nice. The water filter can be had around $50-60. You could also go with an M60 filter that a lot of people use as a final filter near the tool. It uses cartridges that look like toilet paper rolls, and filter really really well. If I was doing a lot of painting or blasting,that's what I would run as well in addition to my setup.

Thanks for posting specifics on what works for your air system.

How often you draining water out of system (tank and MG AF4510)?

Also, did a quick search on prices and Sears is PRICE-GOUGING customers as the MG AF4510 is $80 MORE at Sears, and the MG CO4515 is $100 MORE at Sears than other online vendors . . . ouch . . . stay away from Sears!

I found MG AF4510 for $53 and MG CO4515 for $85 (w/o shipping).

 

[Thunderbisciut]

I just run it off a smaller compressor. I open the drain at the start and end of the day when I'm using it.

As far as Sears, yeah, their prices on a lot of stuff is crazy.