waterproofing foundation

[Throbbin Rods]

My house and garage are 18 years old. Starting to get minor cracks in the foundation. I assume that this is because of amount of clay in the soil causing minor movement. Some internal doors only latch certain times of the year. These cracks allow water intrusion into the cellar . I need to redo some "landscaping" that the ex wife did in a couple places to divert water AWAY from the foundation but wondering about excavating around the foundation and re-waterproofing the foundation walls. Is this a fool's errand or is it worth doing? Should I use the black tar again like I did after the original pour? Is there something better?
Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated

 

[Cyberbear]

Structures built on a foundation of clay will always have problems, often depending on the water content during the different seasons of the rain cycle. Sealing the cellar, if not too costly, can be beneficial for a number of reasons. This may be an insightful lesson in proper preparation prior to building in such a location as yours.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Is this a fool's errand or is it worth doing? Should I use the black tar again like I did after the original pour? Is there something better?

Doing it right is a lot of work and a fair amount of $$$ !

Hopefully there is a drainage pipe going around the outside. It could be clogged. The only way to know is to dig down to it and then run a camera through it.

The proper way to "waterproof" a poor or block cement basement wall is

• Below the level of the basement floor, snstall proper drainage pipe (with sock) around the house emptying into a sump and pump
• Apply tar-like water proofing outside wals
• Apply dimpled drain board on outside walls
• Back fill with gravel to within about 1'-2' of surface, the top soil
• Finish grade away from house.

 

[Throbbin Rods]

Forgot to mention that this is a poured wall., if that makes a difference. There is a foundation drain and it is not clogged. Part of the issue is the cracks from clay moving, the rest is the "landscaping" that my ex wife did. Now that I have a tractor again I will be regrading after I re-waterproof. I looked at the dimpled drain board and it looks like just the ticket. Thanks much for the responses! Never heard of this stuff so looking forward to digging out around the foundation walls and applying it.

 

[Bighead38]

Do it once and do it right. I've probably done 50-100 houses this way and have never gotten a call back.

Dig foundation down to footings.

Power wash foundation

Tar foundation

Install new footing drains

"Mirror" fabric against wall

Install system for gutter drains to take water far away

Backfill and grade yard properly so water is diverted away from house

 

[theoldwizard1]

Forgot to mention that this is a poured wall., if that makes a difference. There is a foundation drain and it is not clogged. Part of the issue is the cracks from clay moving, the rest is the "landscaping" that my ex wife did. Now that I have a tractor again I will be regrading after I re-waterproof. I looked at the dimpled drain board and it looks like just the ticket.

I still say, spend the extra $$$ and back fill with gravel.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Don't use "tar"! You'll be right back where you are now in just a few years.
The problem with tar is it becomes brittle and loses its elasticity; then when you have movement it breaks.

Here in the ATL we have good ol' "Jawja Red Clay"- though it tends to be more stable than other clays around the country. But there's a lot of rolling topo so basements are fairly common. For the past 20+yrs I've been using "Tuff-n-Dri"; it's a spray on MEMBRANE that has the missing link to waterproofing a foundation- ELASTICITY. The ability for it to bridge means it won't break at cracks in the foundation.

https://www.tremcobarriersolutions.com/fileshare/specs/TBS-0518 TNDH8 Spec.pdf

 

[Throbbin Rods]

I still say, spend the extra $$$ and back fill with gravel.

I will be back-filling with gravel for sure, but plan to use the dimpled drainage material over the Tuff n Dri suggested by K'ledgeBldr

 

[SALIV8]

I used us waterproofing before I finished my basement. They offered me a lifetime warranty and had to come back out twice, but never hesitated. They used an epoxy injection system from the inside.

Easy peasy and never had a problem since.

I think they may only serve the chicago area? not sure but I would check this method.

 

[BgBmBoo]

Don't use "tar"! You'll be right back where you are now in just a few years.
The problem with tar is it becomes brittle and loses its elasticity; then when you have movement it breaks.

Here in the ATL we have good ol' "Jawja Red Clay"- though it tends to be more stable than other clays around the country. But there's a lot of rolling topo so basements are fairly common. For the past 20+yrs I've been using "Tuff-n-Dri"; it's a spray on MEMBRANE that has the missing link to waterproofing a foundation- ELASTICITY. The ability for it to bridge means it won't break at cracks in the foundation.

https://www.tremcobarriersolutions.com/fileshare/specs/TBS-0518 TNDH8 Spec.pdf

Looks like a great product. Not very DIY friendly though.. I think it is only available to contractors. Too bad, I've give it try!

 

[BlackTalon]

Tremco's TREMproof GC250 membrane is roller/ brush applied -- much easier then spraying. Not many things will work well over moving cracks though. Isn't the concrete reinforced? That really should limit the ability of cracks to open/ close... You really need to treat moving cracks with something that can absorb movement, and that usually also includes leaving a bit of it unadhered on each side of the crack so there is enough membrane to stretch and stay within the membrane elongation rating. You might want to look at an elastomeric membrane sheet such as neoprene of an inverted strip of self-adhering rubberized asphalt sheet membrane for use over the cracks prior to applying the full waterproofing system.