HoosierBuddy
Well-known member
Guys,
When we installed the hydronic heating system in my garage back in 2006 we put in Watts 1-1/4" tubing to flange adapters on each side of the circulator pump with built in ball valves. Idea being you can isolate the pump, drop in a new one and be back up and running no-muss, no-fuss.
I finally had to replace the circulator pump. One of the isolation valves is leaking badly now from the stem. I took the handle off to see how to adjust the packing nut, and it doesn't have one. I'm just seeing the stem goes right into the valve body. So, we didn't really gain a lot with putting in a valve back in the day as now it seems like the only fix is to desolder the existing valve and replace it with a new one....which kind of means my installing the isolation valves I made my life a lot harder rather than eaiser.
Has anyone run into this? Is there a way to remove the stem from the valve and replace o-rings rather than replacing the entire valve?
When we installed the hydronic heating system in my garage back in 2006 we put in Watts 1-1/4" tubing to flange adapters on each side of the circulator pump with built in ball valves. Idea being you can isolate the pump, drop in a new one and be back up and running no-muss, no-fuss.
I finally had to replace the circulator pump. One of the isolation valves is leaking badly now from the stem. I took the handle off to see how to adjust the packing nut, and it doesn't have one. I'm just seeing the stem goes right into the valve body. So, we didn't really gain a lot with putting in a valve back in the day as now it seems like the only fix is to desolder the existing valve and replace it with a new one....which kind of means my installing the isolation valves I made my life a lot harder rather than eaiser.
Has anyone run into this? Is there a way to remove the stem from the valve and replace o-rings rather than replacing the entire valve?