Wax for tool boxes

[2ndGearRubber]

I have some boxes that are due for cleaning/waxing. They're all powder coated boxes and all happen to be snap on but I doubt that brand is relevant. One is a ~10yo KRL, another is a ~5yo KRL. I have two lockers ~5 years old, and a 10+yo used locker with beat powercoat I cleaned recently when I bought it and may not actually clean and wax it again. It's a 10 footer for sure and not the primary concern here. I also have a new cart being delivered soon (tick.....tock.....) which I would be putting a coat on since it's brand new and the abuse will begin immediately. Normally I'm doing this waxing ~1 time per year, wiping down with water a few times a year, detailing spray every 6 months or so. They spend a lot of time being dirty.


Historically I used something like Meguiar's NXT. My father is a corvette owner, thus knows something about waxes. We used NXT on my older cars with beat paint when I was younger, since it apparently cleans as well as adding a protective coating. I figured I'd ask the collective if there were any outstanding box waxes. Snap on sells a carnauba wax, and I'm pretty sure I've used regular carnauba Meguiars on boxes before. Snap on also specializes in tools, not wax, so I doubt there's any voodoo baked into their wax. On the other hand, buying over-priced snap on branded wax is a flex. My thought process being I don't need to repel water very much, or need "show car finish". I'm trying to protect boxes from oxidation (boxes don't see any direct sun, cart sees very limited sun). Probably my number one concern is trying to keep soot, filth, and general grime off and easily removed as well as a little extra protection on the finish for when I need to wipe all the abrasive dust and ******** off the drawers/sides/tops.


Talk about being a tool polisher, right? Is there an outstanding option? Or will basically anything do and I should just stay the course? Usually I would just wipe to boxes down with water to remove the soot and particulate from the air, then wax them.

 

[908Jim]

There's no shame in taking care of your stuff, no matter what your pursuit is.

I use meg's NXT for my cars, one of which lives outside, because I think the synthetic "wax" holds up much longer than carnuba. I can't see why it wouldn't be a great choice for a toolbox.

 

[Rabid Badger]

Have you looked into any of the ceramic stuff?

 

[CGarage]

Turtlewax Ceramic

 

[P0234]

Use a rinseless wash with wax. I like Duragloss., it's super slick. You can use it for your regular wipe downs as a waterless wash and as a spray wax. Optimum makes a good one too.

 

[Shoreline_]

I have a 10 year old krl, I thought it was sprayed in a single stage from the factory.

 

[CGarage]

I also use this and have been happy with it:

303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating 16 oz

303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating 16 oz - A faster way to coat! The 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating will provide premium protection immediately!

www.autogeek.net

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Have you looked into any of the ceramic stuff?

Completely ignorant of ceramic wax.

WHAT IS CERAMIC CAR WAX, AND DOES IT WORK?

Learn all about ceramic car wax and the technology behind it that makes it a great product to have in your detailing arsenal for long-lasting protection!

www.turtlewax.com

I have read this now, prior to posting. They talk about chemically bonding to clear coat. But I don't have clear coat, frankly I don't have paint in the traditional sense. However it looks like I just spray and wipe it down, which seems nice. I wonder how it would play with the aluminum trim which I believe is coated in something. It certainly isn't raw aluminum on the outer face.

Reading some labels from what I could zoom on amazon, it appears to need applied wet. So I'd need to spray down areas lightly with tap water in a spray bottle then apply, then dry it? So the water acts as a dispersant?

I have a 10 year old krl, I thought it was sprayed in a single stage from the factory.

I can't speak to much older stuff, but I'm pretty sure mine are powder coat. Google claims they are for whatever that's worth.

 

[MarcSeattle]

Oh, absolutely. Wash, then apply iron remover, wait, then wash again, clay bar, then wash again, wipe with isopropyl, then use a dual-action polisher to correct any paint imperfections, then ceramic coat.

Just kidding. Just use your favorite all purpose cleaner to wash it, rinse, then hand-apply a nice ceramic wax like Griot's Garage 10895 Ceramic All-in-One Wax: www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-10895-Ceramic-All/dp/B0B4PTCY87

That stuff is amazing. Easy to apply and indoors it's going to last a long time.

 

[Toold_up]

This is what museums use:

Renaissance Wax - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[CGarage]

Of course, it belongs in the Louvre!

 

[Wamsutta]

Did that cart ever come in you had on order?

 

[Ohio Andy]

This is what museums use:

Renaissance Wax - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

It is a very nice wax but I only have used it on wood things I have made

 

[mikey03]

Snap on sells a carnauba wax, and I'm pretty sure I've used regular carnauba Meguiars on boxes before. Snap on also specializes in tools, not wax, so I doubt there's any voodoo baked into their wax. On the other hand, buying over-priced snap on branded wax is a flex.

buy an empty container of snap on wax and fill it with cheaper wax and you got the best of both worlds. It’s cheaper but you get to on the poors

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Did that cart ever come in you had on order?

Still awaiting arrival, the delivery window is effectively now until the end of the month per the original estimate when I ordered it. That's why I want the wax situation already figured out so I can get it off the skid, load with tools, wax, roll.


I've been waiting for the shipping company to call me to confirm I can receive from them.... so I'm stuck picking up unknown numbers or actually listening to their voicemails. My bank had the gall to call me about a CD rate they have! Unless you have a mobile workcenter to deliver stay off the line!

 

[Wamsutta]

EAGLE ONE WAX AS-U-DRY. Works great for boxes. That's what I used back in the day when my box was new and I still cared.

 

[CGarage]

I think hand waxing it and then putting ceramic over it will give it good protection, even from some scratches and chemicals.

 

[ZRX61]

I also use this and have been happy with it:

303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating 16 oz

303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating 16 oz - A faster way to coat! The 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating will provide premium protection immediately!

www.autogeek.net

I used that stuff on a vehicle once. Out here in the desert it causes dust to stick to the paint. Day after I used it the damn car looked like it had been sitting in a dust storm for a year.

 

[lardy1]

My wife and I pride ourselves on keeping our Harleys nice and shiny. I find that discussing wax and finishes is a lot like discussing motor oil. Everyone has their favorite and everyone has their reasons. Since you aren't protecting your tool boxes from the road and weather conditions and by reading you I tend to believe your purpose is investment protection rather that wanting the prettiest tool box, I'd suggest just a heavy dose of paste wax. It should protect against a shop environment if refreshed occasionally.

 

[CGarage]

I like the paste wax idea and I think I a thick layer of paste wax will offer good protection in a shop environment.

I also found this useful.

 

[toolenthusiast]

“Paste wax” doesn’t mean anything. It’s like if someone asked what you want for dinner and you say “fried”.

2ndgear, I love NXT for my vehicles. I’ve found that NXT + Ultimate Fast Finish + Ultimate Waterless Wash and Wax actually made my car self-cleaning, like a ceramic coating. Buuuut since your toolboxes are not exposed to rain or direct sun, I think you should just lay a fat layer of carnauba wax. You're in the position to benefit from the plus sides of carnauba (extreme gloss and great color) but not deal with the downsides (poor weather resistance / durability).

 

[KnurledNut]

Klasse.

 

[username2]

Huh. Fancy stuff here.

I mostly just have really old vintage boxes and just do the following...quick Scotch Brite, quick fine sand with whatever paper I've got, Johnson's paste wax or whatever, done. This is mostly just to cut down on one more source of oily dirt that might soil my soft hands.

 

[MOS3522]

If it's going to be indoors why use any fancy waxes. You don't have wind or sun to contend with. Regular carnuba wax is inexpensive and will get the job done well, as well as be easy to apply and touch up as needed.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=carnuba+wax&tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[RegeSullivan]

Just waxed my 4 roll-around boxes this spring and thought I was the only one with enough time to waste doing that... but I'm probably too low class for this conversation because clean/wax my tool boxes using what ever cans of wax were most used up and had to scrape the bottom since im too cheap th throw it away. That included Johnson past wax which seemed to work just as well as all the others. The Johnson wax seems to be one of the better waxes for cleaning.

 

[Drunkonunleaded]

"Cleaner" waxes have some level of abrasive. Not really needed or recommended.

Tool boxes have a lot of crevices and trim to contend with, areas that will collect wax and be an absolute pain to clean. In this application, you're probably best served with a spray product. Pick a brand that you like and use it. A tool box lives an easy life compared to auto paint and therefore just about anything will work. I personally use whatever I have on hand. Could be a spray wax, quick detailer, or Maxima SC1. It entirely depends upon how I'm feeling at the moment.

 

[redwrench60]

Long time KRL owner here. Every time I EVER tried to wax, clean or treat any of them I end up with a rag completely stained red from the powder coat I’m removing. There’s no clear coat to protect/clean/shine. Any wax or cleaner WILL remove some powder coat, so I just wipe down with a wet cloth and gentle dish soap then dry. Maybe a wipe down with a silicone spray rag.

 

[bobg03]

Any good quality paste wax (I like Mcguires) will work, wipe it down once a year or when deemed it's needed w/a detailing spray. An annual waxing should keep it looking fine w/a wipedown in between waxes.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Long time KRL owner here. Every time I EVER tried to wax, clean or treat any of them I end up with a rag completely stained red from the powder coat I’m removing. There’s no clear coat to protect/clean/shine. Any wax or cleaner WILL remove some powder coat, so I just wipe down with a wet cloth and gentle dish soap then dry. Maybe a wipe down with a silicone spray rag.

When the boxes were brand new, or if I had a beat old box I got used, I noticed more of that. Over time as I have built up a good coating on them it has become very minimal. I think the powder coat is sort of like single stage paint in the way that rubbing against it hard enough and long enough (gross) will eventually cause transfer.


I appreciate all the people mentioning the spray waxes because the aluminum trim can catch wax behind it and be annoying. That may really simplify the process.

My wife and I pride ourselves on keeping our Harleys nice and shiny. I find that discussing wax and finishes is a lot like discussing motor oil. Everyone has their favorite and everyone has their reasons. Since you aren't protecting your tool boxes from the road and weather conditions and by reading you I tend to believe your purpose is investment protection rather that wanting the prettiest tool box, I'd suggest just a heavy dose of paste wax. It should protect against a shop environment if refreshed occasionally.

Lot of comments similar to this, just happened to pick yours to reply to conceptually.


Yes, pretty is a side effect but not the inherent goal. I would pay more for a product that didn't look as nice but I know would protect better. I will not lie that I don't enjoy how they look fresh and shiny.

I'm 34 in 2 months, I bought the 1st KRL around 24? I will eventually be too worn out physically to use the box, or I will die prior to that point. I spent a lot of money on that box, and I like this whole little family of boxes I've built. My primary goal is to take care of them as I can in a filthy and dusty shop were I have to produce work to make money. When I close thay drawer for the last time I know it won't be the same condition as the day I pushed it through the parking lot and into the shop. But I'd still like to take care of it.

 

[eaglefan1]

Sealant is a much better choice. Last longer. Wax is a dust magnet. Ive detailed vehicles as a side gig for almost 20 years and stopped using waxes a long time ago. Where I live, the pollen and everything else in the air just sticks to waxed paint.

Also, it doesn't matter if you put a thin or thick layer of wax on paint. When you go to buff it off only an extremely thin layer adheres to the paint. Unless you don't buff off the residue, then you would have a thick layer. All you will do is make the removal process difficult.

Just what I do with my box. Wolfgang Uber waterless wash then any spray sealant I grab.

 

[Steve_P]

I've waxed my Craftsman boxes with Meguires carnauba. These are dipped or ecoat boxes, not PC, and it didn't remove any color. I wouldn't overthink it, just put some cheap wax on it; it's not subject to acid rain, etc.

 

[d.mcfarland]

A standalone spray wax would for sure be an option, but other sprays offer all in one (cleaning and protection) properties which might be beneficial. Try to find an ingredient list if necessary but something that advertises light cleaning would save some time and effort.

The Grant's purple and green microfiber towels at Harbor Freight are very inexpensive and could be treated as disposable for the price.

 

[Kurt4440]

To answer your question:
Traditionally I have used wax on my tool boxes, but, I find ceramic coatings work very well on cars and motorcycles.
Years ago I saw this video

and used the recommended Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions polish and spray wax on an older vehicle.
It worked incredibly well. Since then I have treated about 10 cars with equally good results.

Recently, I skimmed over this video, as I had made a wise *** comment about my perfect organization and ceramic coated tool boxes.

Ceramic coating appears to work on Snap-On boxes.

This portion is the humor section, as you mentioned your father is a Corvette owner.



Good luck, I think any maintenance on your investment is better than nothing.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

To answer your question:
Traditionally I have used wax on my tool boxes, but, I find ceramic coatings work very well on cars and motorcycles.
Years ago I saw this video

and used the recommended Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions polish and spray wax on an older vehicle.
It worked incredibly well. Since then I have treated about 10 cars with equally good results.

Recently, I skimmed over this video, as I had made a wise *** comment about my perfect organization and ceramic coated tool boxes.

Ceramic coating appears to work on Snap-On boxes.

This portion is the humor section, as you mentioned your father is a Corvette owner.



Good luck, I think any maintenance on your investment is better than nothing.

You forgot the matching husband/wife Corvette branded polo shirts..... Which they do own. LOL We should thank them, because all of these cars have a huge percentage represented as low mileage creme-puffs.


I'm leaning heavily towards the ceramic type simply for application being much easier.

 

[CGarage]

Hand wax followed by ceramic top coat / sealer is the way to go. I have more premium products I use on the vehicles but the ease of availability and price to performance ratio of Turtle Wax is hard to beat I think, especially for tool box use.

 

[Kurt4440]

You forgot the matching husband/wife Corvette branded polo shirts..... Which they do own. LOL We should thank them, because all of these cars have a huge percentage represented as low mileage creme-puffs.


I'm leaning heavily towards the ceramic type simply for application being much easier.

Turtle Wax Ceramic is easy to apply and inexpensive. They have some decent application videos and tips.

Years ago my parents purchased very tasteful matching leather jackets to wear on my fathers new Honda Goldwing. Luckily, my mother quickly shut down the idea of buying matching vests with Goldwing patches.

I joke around with my 65 year old Lexus driving neighbor that in every Corvette and Lexus glove box is a bottle of ******. Then I impersonate a pretentious person asking for ****** instead of Grey Poupon.

 

[Death Row Dave]

It is a very nice wax but I only have used it on wood things I have made

All of my guns get serious cleaning 2 x a year . No oil on the outside only this wax . It will outlast you . My carry in my pocket is Security Six blue finish , it gets waxed ever month or so . In a 90% humidity 90 * summer day , pocket gets pretty soggy . No rust , blueing is almost gone , but no rust

 

[CGarage]

I use Amsoil MPHD spray (yes, the heavy duty) and wipe the outside of my firearms down with that. No issues and works perfectly if wiped down and wiped away (it’s like a spray cosmoline). Any gun being carried for personal protection should be cleaned weekly at a bare minimum.

 

[rust in the eye]

You guys are funny

 

[Death Row Dave]

I use Amsoil MPHD spray (yes, the heavy duty) and wipe the outside of my firearms down with that. No issues and works perfectly if wiped down and wiped away (it’s like a spray cosmoline). Any gun being carried for personal protection should be cleaned weekly at a bare minimum.

Wheel pistols and and bolt rifles for me . I have semi auto loaders in both . Just not me , I never leave an empty casing anywhere . Mine has never failed to operate , no fumbling around in the dark , they work and are as safe as a fire arm can possible get .,