Wax ring or rubber for toilet?

[joseywales]

Anyone use the rubber rings, instead of the wax ring? Are they any good? Any brand better than another?

 

[Copymutt]

We have old plumbing thus, a few stop ups every year. I got tired of cleaning up the old wax rings, heating the replacements, just a messy deal.
While I don't recall the brand, HD has a closed cell reusable ring that I installed last time. It also locates the base studs for you. No more one shot or fail. I've tried many "universal seals" only to find that many don't allow the camode to sit
flush(rocks).

 

[Done That]

No experience. Always use the extra thick wax with plastic flange, never had an issue to my knowledge... same house for 20 years.

 

[bwringer]

Yes, I've used them several times. They're fan-frickin'-tastic.

Wax *****.

The foam rings give you unlimited do-overs. Even if you're the Krapper King, you don't always get the alignment perfect the first time.

If you have some sort of unusual spacing situation you're dealing with, the red Korky brand ring has multiple layers that can be used to make sure it's right. (I've also used the green one shown above with excellent results.)

Plus, if it's on a wood floor, minor movement won't break the seal. If you're remodeling in stages, you can remove and replace the toilet later using the same ring.

The only downside is cost -- the foam rubber rings are about $10-$15. Worth every penny if you ask me.

 

[weadjust]

The only downside is cost -- the foam rubber rings are about $10-$15. Worth every penny if you ask me.

I will never use wax again after using the
Saniseal in my rental houses.

 

[Stevedore]

I see no reason to use the wax rings other than the cost savings. The rubber/foam/polymer/whatever products just seem more likely to retain their elasticity & maintain their sealing pressure over their lifetime.

I've replaced the seals on toilets that didn't fit flush to the floor, and the flexibility of the newer seals gives me more confidence that the seal will remain OK until I get the base shimmed & tightened down properly. In my ownersip of multiple houses & rental property, I haven't used a wax ring in over 30 years.

 

[dogdog]

All 3 of 6 toilets are rubber santiseal now... slowly changing them over when I re-do the toilets... they are great IMO. Wax is fine, just don't throw hot water down there.

 

[tcianci]

If you guys are having problems with wax rings, either there’s something wrong with your installation, level of floor or you just plain don’t know what you’re doing. Also be aware that despite their miraculous abilities, some of these items are still not accepted by local codes

 

[joseywales]

I ended up just using the wax ring that came with the American Standard Champion 4 that I bought today. Honestly, it was a breeze. I pushed the wax ring on to the base of the toilet there were no issues.

A master plumber friend helps me out on, or completes, larger projects. He's not a fan of rubber for these reasons:

1 - if the flange has any imperfections, the rubber won't seat in those areas. Probably never be a big deal, but it can happen. When I removed my old toilet, sure enough, the flange had some rough spots, like the installer caught it with a hacksaw here and there.

2 - Bacteria could adhere to the rubber - I believe he said the material is treated to prevent that, but he's just not a fan.

I did learn that you shouldn't caulk around a toilet. i always thought it was good idea, in case of an overflow the water won't end up in the ceiling below. He said caulking is a bad idea and usually against code, because it can trap moisture under the toiler and create mold. I had caulked my old toilet and sure enough there was a very small amount of green on vinyl floor, just inside the edge of the toilet.

 

[WQ59B]

I don't see a problem if a tiny bit of mold develops under a toilet base. Caulking around a toilet helps prevent movement down the road on rougher tile floors & helps secure shims. I prefer wax rings & caulking the base.

 

[mitusa]

Anyone else just use silicone???? GE # 1

Just build it up like a wax seal.....let it skim over, then set the toilet down.

Been working for me......

 

[s14kev]

Anyone else just use silicone???? GE # 1

Just build it up like a wax seal.....let it skim over, then set the toilet down.

Been working for me......

Wow! You must have owned my home before I moved in! I found so many "unconventional" fixes that I've lost count. I'm the poor ******* who has to remove said leaking toilet after you siliconed it to the flange.

At least next time use "great stuff" expanding foam if you want to try sketchy homeowner repairs. I might have a chance of removing the toilet without having to smash it into multiple pieces.

 

[ddurrett896]

I don't see a problem if a tiny bit of mold develops under a toilet base. Caulking around a toilet helps prevent movement down the road on rougher tile floors & helps secure shims. I prefer wax rings & caulking the base.

Also hides a leaking toilet. Just remodeled my parents bathroom because the subfloor around the toilet was trashed from a leak they knew nothing about.

 

[ddawg16]

This kinda reminds me of the Schluter Kerdi system vs Hot Mop.

One has a proven 60+ year history...the other...gotta wait a few more years.

Wax rings....cheap...work.

If I have a situation where I need to keep pulling my toilet....well.....maybe I need to fix the reason I need to pull the toilet so often.

For the record.....

1. All my showers are hot moped.....
2. All my toilets have wax rings.
3. All my toilets have a silicone bead on the base of the toilet. I leave a 2" gap at the back just in case there is an 'issue'. So far, no issues......................and we are talking several years.

 

[joseywales]

I don't see a problem if a tiny bit of mold develops under a toilet base. Caulking around a toilet helps prevent movement down the road on rougher tile floors & helps secure shims. I prefer wax rings & caulking the base.

Aside from possible leaks into the finished ceiling below, these are exactly the reasons I caulked it last time, including the shims. In fact, I needed a couple more shims this time, as the gap in front of the toilet is noticeable, less than 1/8”. It doesn’t wobble, but clearly the floor and/or the toilet aren’t perfect. I might just put a thin bead around the front and see if it looks “clean”. If not, I might do the sides as well and leave it open in the back.

I usually wait a week or so, to look for odors and leaks. So I have a few days to ponder it ; )

 

[rjn2649]

Several years ago I ended up "accidentally" remodeling our bathroom, the damn thing is tiny, went to repair a P trap, found it was duck taped and painted over, leaking in the wall, behind that plastic wall cover **** that looks like tile...once I opened the section under the vanity I just knew I was in trouble...every time I opened up a small section I had to fix something else.ANYWAY.. I used one of those re-usable seals, because I had to pull the toilet in and out every weekend. It's been in there for a couple of years now, no problem. I can lift up a ceiling tile in the basement and inspect under the toilet, and no issues, as a mater of fact I need to go do that now....

 

[rjn2649]

Yup still good, also caulking around the toilet, not a big fan, too many issues if (when ) it has to be removed again, also the water/mold issues under it. I get why someone would when they are dealing with uneven floors, but I probably would only caulk the front half so I could get a visual of any leaks...IMO

 

[59 wagon man]

if you have to keep lifting the toilet stop being a shoemaker and fix the damn problem. backups shouldn't occur on a regular basis. i agree with the no silicone on the base especially with those little 1" square tiles. can't tell you how many tiles popped up over the yrs while removing tiles and pedestal sinks

 

[WQ59B]

I leave the back 10-15% of the base uncaulked (what you can't see at a casual glance), but every toilet I've ever removed has never been water-tight around the flange at the floor, IE; if the seal is leaking the water will drain down around the waste pipe to wherever, not sit under the toilet. So caulking in my experience won't prevent water from running out from under the edge of the base. When I see a flange siliconed to the floor water-tight, perhaps I'll alter that approach.

Wax seals properly installed should not ever leak if the toilet never moves.

 

[tcianci]

My standard procedure is to set the bowl dry and adjust with shims to level it or stop rocking. Once the shims are placed, take up the bowl and apply the wax ring. Install the bowl down on the shims and tighten bolts. Grout bowl to floor. After grout dries, remove shims and fill voids where shims were with grout. Don’t worry about hiding leaks, there won’t be any.

I recently removed a toilet I installed 39 years ago to put in a more modern style. The wax ring, flange and floor were as new as the day I installed them

 

[James-W]

I have always used wax rings when replacing a toilet. I haven't replaced all that many, maybe half a dozen for friends and family, but I have found that wax rings work quite well. Never had one leak yet.

 

[vavet]

I used a wax ring on my first toilet installation. I got a rubber ring for the reinstallation of that toilet. It’s been fine. I used a rubber ring on my second toilet installation too. It has also been fine. That’s the extent of my toilet installing experience,

 

[foolio]

Never had a problem with a wax ring. Recently replaced two toilets and briefly pondered the new rubber seals but opted for the wax given the time tested reliability. Not afraid of something new, just didn’t think I needed it.

 

[njhoudini]

They also have rubber filled with wax under. Whinh reminds me that I should probably caulk it soon.

If at first you don't succeed, keep trying.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=391230

Sent from my LG-H918 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[rharman]

My standard procedure is to set the bowl dry and adjust with shims to level it or stop rocking. Once the shims are placed, take up the bowl and apply the wax ring. Install the bowl down on the shims and tighten bolts. Grout bowl to floor. After grout dries, remove shims and fill voids where shims were with grout. Don’t worry about hiding leaks, there won’t be any.

I recently removed a toilet I installed 39 years ago to put in a more modern style. The wax ring, flange and floor were as new as the day I installed them

Grout? Seriously? I had one that was grouted (not by me). Tore up 3 tiles in the process of removing it.

I always use 1 wax ring with the horn and another, thinner, ring by itself. Shim everything level, set it, caulk and leave a 1" gap front and rear.

 

[jd_1138]

I used a wax ring with the extra gasket around it last month when I reseated the toilet due to a rusted out toilet bolt.. No problems.

 

[tcianci]

Grout? Seriously? I had one that was grouted (not by me). Tore up 3 tiles in the process of removing it.

I always use 1 wax ring with the horn and another, thinner, ring by itself. Shim everything level, set it, caulk and leave a 1" gap front and rear.

If the grout tore up 3 tiles, then the problem was with the tiles not the grout.

I am by no means attempting to sound sarcastic or condescending, but until someone actually understands the materials and the practices required to accomplish a project, any success they realize is pure luck.

 

[csp]

I've had the pleasure of removing a toilet that was grouted along with the tile. I wanted to kill the guy who did it. Perhaps if we were lucky enough to wait 39 years after it was initially done it would have been easy, but that wasn't the case here.

 

[6768rogues]

I have installed a lot of thrones and I always use a wax ring, never had a problem. Maybe I will try one of the new gaskets next time, just to try it, not to solve any problem.

 

[BigGarage]

The foundation of a toilet is nothing without XXXXXX or toilet flange that creates a watertight seal. You can simply describe it as a link between your toilet and the water supply line. As time goes by, you’ll find an old wax ring that causes leak symptoms at the toilet’s base.

Jeez, I wonder if I should click on the link? Here we go again?

Dennis

 

[rlitman]

Jeez, I wonder if I should click on the link? Here we go again?

Dennis

Do not quote spammers. Just report it and let it go, or if you feel the new need to comment in the thread, post a comment. Your post above only perpetuates the link the spammer was trying to post.

 

[laser3kw]

Our "ol'school" plumber uses plumbers putty rolled into a thick rope / doughnut. Ours has not given us any trouble in 15 years since it was installed.

 

[nadogail]

Wax Rings work fine and last a long time. Mine typically are replaced when the sheet vinyl flooring is replaced or we replace it toilet due to remodeling.

Over the years we have changed the toilets to the taller ADA models and Mrs Nadogail decided she likes the ONE PIECE style.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Do not quote spammers. Just report it and let it go, or if you feel the new need to comment in the thread, post a comment. Your post above only perpetuates the link the spammer was trying to post.

Exactly. Report and it will be taken care of.

 

[ipgenie]

One of our toilets has been removed several times over the years to clear a toy that was flushed by a kid. I used a wax ring every time with no issues.
The toilet in the master bath had never been removed but a few years ago the ceiling in the storage room below started showing signs of water damage. I pulled down the drywall and found that something had leaked but nothing was leaking at the moment. It turned out to be the master toilet leaking a little at each flush.
I pulled the toilet and the wax was missing. I was puzzled about that. I had installed the toilet myself and had used a wax ring. The leak had been there for at least several months but the toilet was installed 15 years before.

Finally I figured out what happened. We have concrete floors that are heated. Over the years the wax had slowly melted away and when enough went down the drain, it started leaking a tiny bit. The leak slowly got worse until the water damage became visible in the ceiling below.
A plumber friend of mine explained that he sees this happen occasionally in campers when a wax ring is used. The high temperature swings can get the inside really hot and the wax can start to melt.

I used a rubber gasket and it sealed up fine. After a few months, I reinsulated the floor and installed new drywall in the ceiling below the bathroom. I have nothing against wax rings, but in my situation I'll make the switch to the rubber rings. I really didn't enjoy that cleanup and would rather not go through it again.

 

[Junkdrawer Dog]

+1 vote for Sani Seal and no caulk. I've never had to re do a toilet after installing Sani Seal. Makes the job easier too!

 

[LOW1]

I dont understand the hatred for wax rings. Work fine for me. No big deal to replace if need be. Why change to some new-fangled gizmo?

 

[Kuma601]

Sort of went through this following the tank crack. Was going to buy a new toilet and asked the retired and still working plumber's about the wax or synthetic rings, both stated wax. The shop I bought the tank from they said similar for a toilet install. I detest the clean-up but those wax rings do last. Don't use the plunger or pour hot water down.

 

[joseywales]

This is too funny. I started this thread and now I have to replace one of the wax rings. I believe it's leaking because I'm getting brown stains on the tile. No, not that brown. We have hard water and heavy iron, so it's orange and leaves the tile brown. The other two rings are doing well, but this ring has to be changed out.

 

[rlitman]

I dont understand the hatred for wax rings. Work fine for me. No big deal to replace if need be. Why change to some new-fangled gizmo?

Why the hatred for radial tires and lead pipes? They worked fine for a long time. So did lead paint and asbestos.

Wax rings work. Except when they don't. The difference is that a wax ring is far more likely to fail while in use than the superior alternatives.